Matrix Spoon

what would be better in a JDM B16A?

Wiseco Forged Pistons & Eagle Rods 1.6L B16A1, Eagle Crankshaft.
The bore would be kept at 81.0mm Compression level is set at 11.5:1


or


The 1.8L Spoon Sports Stroker Kit, which is: Pistons, Rods, & Crank that will take my stock 77.4mm stroke to a 87.2mm.
The bore would be kept at 81.0mm Compression level is set at 11.3:1 with this kit, and change my engine from a 1.6L to a 1.8L
Kit consists of crankshaft, pistons w/ wristpins, piston rings, connecting rods and a 2ply. Spoon metal headgasket.

~Thanks~
spoonjdmeg6
new ClubEG6 member


Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:08 am
Car: 1992 Honda Civic Hatchback 3 Door

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Better for what?

MySickSi

If you wana go 1.8, then just buy a b18 and put your weisco\eagle setup in there, b18 short blocks bare go for dirt cheap

Red_Army

and if youre gonna do that might as well go b20. 200 bucks is cheap in car land.

and what marc said. better for what? driving to the grocery store, racing, tubing?

MySickSi

Agreed^

Matrix Spoon

better meaning, which would be better compaired to one and other, for all motor drag racing...

Matrix Spoon

trying to build the bottom end, of my b16a, head is already fully built for all motor...

DirtyDA9

Money talks.

Matrix Spoon

i have the money and i want to build it right, thats why i'm posting this to try and get info...

DirtyDA9

If it's gonna be a track only car, stroker. If it's gonna be a road and track car, Eagle/wiseco, and spend the rest of the money you saved, on other goodies.

Matrix Spoon

well i plan on spending the rest on cams and a tune...

Matrix Spoon

and from what people are saying stroking it wouldn't that make it like a b18?...then why would it be bad to be a road & track car?...

NotAJDMFanBoy

The guy above said it would be good for a road/track car. The 87.2mm stroke is the stroke of a b18c1/c5 engine.

Basically, the longer the stroke, the lower the revs you should throw at it. Longer stroke and more revs mean any vibration is amplified more. I like the idea of the GSR block, it has a girdle and is a little taller. You can find them for like $200 bare. If you're looking at stroking your b16, getting a gsr block may be cheaper than buying a kit. Look at $400-500 for a pretty basic bottom end.

Matrix Spoon

well i just heard back from inline4.com, and they beat around the bush, i asked what parts are actual spoon... basically turns out that the only thing in the kit thats spoon is the pistons and head gasket, there just selling oem honda b18 crank and rods with it....

so would i be better with getting the wiesco and eagle rods then and eagle crank?...what route would be the best hp and tor gain for all motor?...my head is fully built, valves, springs retainers, locks, seals, guides, 3 angle, and port polish...

thanks for all

the comments thus far...

DirtyDA9

This.

And I wouldn't waste your money on an Eagle crank, it is highly unlikely that a factory crank is going to fail.I say, GSR crank, Eagle rods, wiseco pistons, call it a day. That thing will rev it's ***** off. I would also get a Golden Eagle girdle, but then the main bearing caps and main bolt holes need to be align honed. So the money you would have spent on an Eagle crank, spend on a GE girdle and align hone. With that setup, and your built head, it will rev to the friggin moon.

Matrix Spoon

i'm thinkin of getting skunk cams, but i'm not sure whether to get tuner or pro?....and what stage to get, i'm all new when it comes to all that technical intake exaust .0000 percent stuff....

any help would be apreciateated greatly...

NotAJDMFanBoy

DirtyDA9: the Golden Eagle girdle isn't a bad idea, but if you were putting that on a B16, you still have to run custom rods. For the cost of both and the extra cost of getting an align bore, you could just buy a GSR block and use off the shelf GSR rods and probably spend a fair bit less. GSR blocks are not that expensive.

Stock GSR blocks, without ARP main studs, special girdles, aftermarket sleeves, etc have been used and have made amazing power. That's probably going to be the cheapest, easiest, and fastest solution if you want to stay B series and be reliable. If you just want power, just get a B20 bottom end and make an LS/VTEC. I doubt it would last 2 years unless built very carefully and kept conservatively, but it'd be fun while it lasts.

If you add it all up though, you're looking at building a poor man's Type R basically. You may make 190hp NA with cams and a tune and a little port work if you stay with a 1.8 liter size engine. For $750 for an H2B adapter kit, $1000 or so for a H22, and a few hundred for a header, you could have a 200hp stock engine with potential to make even more power.

CivicSpoon

That Spoon Sports kit is for the B16B, not the B16A. It turns the B16B bottom end into a B18C (ITR) bottom end; the physical blocks are identical. It's for people who plan to rebuild their B16Bs. If they are going to do a rebuild, they might as well upgrade it, in Spoon Sports' opinion.

DirtyDA9

I totally agree with you, I was just saying, for him, instead of buying a forged crank, buy a girdle. I'm just assuming, with the way he is talking, he has the money for anything really. But I do agree with you, stock GSR bottom end is very efficiant.

Matrix Spoon

from my understanding the b16a and b16b are exactly the same in every way except for the cams and the pistons, other then that everything is exactly the same...

Matrix Spoon

yus this is all true but if i want to change this and do that, it's like saying well you can get this or do that, your basically saying change my engine, if i was going to change my engine to a stock engine that has the potential of making more power id go with a k series...but i have a b16 and i like my b16, i'm just wanting to build my b16 to the best of what it has to offer for being a b16...if that makes any sence...

simplejackk

Lol then get low comp pistons, rods, hone, block guard or sleeve it and go boost. B16's arn't great all motor engines, but what they do like is boost

Matrix Spoon

i've always heard the oposite, that there better for all motor not boost cause of the high compres, and high revs....

DirtyDA9

Yea higher compression isn't good for boost, you run into detonation, even under low boost. And DO NOT get a block guard, they do more harm than good, in the long run.

If you really want to build a B16 NA monster, get the eagle rods, any forged piston (I would go higher than stock comp. ratio), golden eagle girdle (you will need main caps machined like I said earlier). For the head, farrea dual springs, ti retainers, flat face valves, and bumpstix or somthing for cams, and don't worry about a full P&P, just have the ports cleaned up a bit or port matched to the intake/exhaust manifold. That thing will rev to the fawkin moon.

Matrix Spoon

my head is already built with REV: hi-comp flat valves, dual coil springs, retainers, FERREA: valve guides, locks, & seals. The head has been shaved, port polished and has a 3 angle job on it as well. running stock b16a vtec cams currently with a stock jdm b16a intake manifold that i plan on getting the skunk2 and having the head port matched to the skunk intake, currently running the pw jdm cf whale *****.