USDMMARK

ive searched in tech,hybrid,integra,and eg forums, and can't find much of anything, i know the topic has been covered but can't find a true run down on what needs to be done to get b18a/b rods to work in a d series motor, i hear from some you drill out the piston a little and they slide right on and in the motor, then i hear from others they have to be shaved down, and yet another source says to shorten the rod, can someone give me the truth?

thank you

chad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kikomon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as I know they are an upgrade from stock rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>


how can they be an upgrade...they are a stock rod!

No-Gi

They can withstand ~300WHP. D16 rods are match sticks

The Internet Tough Guy

i believe they have to be machined and the block has to be notched. look for posts in the archives created by turbopanda. he knows maybe shoot him a pm.

NonovUrbizniz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe they have to be machined and the block has to be notched. look for posts in the archives created by turbopanda. he knows maybe shoot him a pm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm pretty sure he's right... and I KNOW it's out there somewhere...

I thought they were swap in too like the first replier... 2-3 posts later someone linked to a thread showing what needed to be done...

I'll try to find it.

NonovUrbizniz

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=697566

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-sohctec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I put B16 Rods in my D. You have to notch the block & you also need to have the big end of the rod machined to fit your crank..</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=697568

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no notching the block. big end needs to be machined down. small end needs a bushing installed for floating wrist. that means after market pistons.
if you need numbers let me know.
stan</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=677244
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=627684
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=575630


Lots of contradictory info... not too sure on how helpfull it will be...

As far as I can gather... you need to bush the small end to accept the stock piston/pin or you need to use them with a different type of pin and aftermarket pistons...

I believe there is some machining of the rod as well... and some notching of the block depending on year...

But again I only briefly read over some of the threads.

do a search... don't be soo specific... the info is out there... just search "ls rods" on "archieved" messages.

pdiggitydogg

i stole this from somewhere else
"B18B parts integration

Upgraded bottom end components:
-LS rods with stock SOHC pistons
-LS rods can be found cheap as well as d16 pistons
-Big end bore width milled to match D16 crank's rod journals. Small end bore bushed to match D16 piston's smaller pin size. The difference in big-end width is about 0.035". The pin on the LS pistons is 0.826", the pin on the D16 pistons is 0.748. You need the custom made bushing that crower sells.

Approximate Cost:
-4 LS rods rebushed= $32
-Custom bushings from Crower= $32
-Mill the sides of the large end of the 4 rods to fit crank= $35
-Remove LS pistons from rods, remove Y8 pistons from rods and put Y8 pistons on LS rods= $40
Total: $139

This set-up is probably good for about 250-300 hp, of course, this only as strong as your tuning effectiveness."

USDMMARK

thank you

not to bad for the money and the strength

GPNY

Here is what I found out about this before getting a good deal on AEM Hyper Rods...

You cannot use stock pistons with bushed rods! If you want, you can have grooves made into the stock pistons to use wire locks and convert them to full floating.

Crower does not make the bushing anymore to my knowledge... I called Brian there and he said he had had a bad experience with someone and didn't want to do it anymore.
Fortunately, A competent machine shop can make the bushings out of silicon bronze bar stock pretty easily.

The big end size needs to be shave a few hundreds (It's been posted before, but all you need to do to check is Mic the stock rod big end, Mic the LS rod big end, calculate the difference and shave half of the difference on each side.)

As far as bearings, you can use D16 bearings as the inner bore of the big end of LS rods is 48mm which is the same as D16 rods. (Give or take a few thousanths for tolerances as Honda rods are numbered 1-4)

You do not need to notch the block for LS rods. You do need to notch the block to use TurboPanda's B16 rod/ JDM Supra combo as it reduces the R/S ratio and the rods see a much higher angle at midstroke as they are shorter and make up for the height difference (3mm) with highter piston height.

Good luck with your project.

D-t

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


how can they be an upgrade...they are a stock rod!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not according to Emerika, check out his quote for us EG guys. LOL

blackeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not according to Emerika, check out his quote for us EG guys. LOL </TD></TR></TABLE>
hahah yea and its true too!! had me dying the first time i read it