htxb

Hey everyone...I'm looking for a stock 96-00 EK hatch as a daily driver. Can anyone help me out by letting me know what I should look for to make sure I don't buy a problem?

Like how can I tell if the engine had been swapped before or if the car had been modified before?

Are there any typical maintenance issues I could check for that get neglected often?

Those types of insights would really help.

My first honda was a '92 EG hatch. It was a decent car that got me from a to b for a good year and a half. Then I sold it and bought a '93 Integra GS-R from the original owner. It had sat in his driveway for a few years and wasn't running. I managed to get it running and man, that car was quick! It got me hooked on VTEC!!!

After driving that for about 6 months I bought an '09 Civic SI sedan in October of '08. I LOVED that car but after 2 layoffs in '09 I couldn't keep up the payments and had to let it go.

Now I'm about to go back to work (FINALLY!) and I need a daily. I didn't think I could find a decent EK hatch in my price range so I bought an '02 Sentra GXE. Talk about weak sauce! No acceleration, weak a/c, and crappy gas mileage!! I miss Hondas and I want another one.

The Sentra is up for sale and I've got my eyes open for a clean EK hatch. I've seen a few nice ones come and go so I know they are available. I should have been more patient when shopping for a car but I had some money burning a hole in my pocket.

Anyways, thanks for your help. Can't wait to be in a Honda again!

The Super-Duper Checklist
Contributed by Vindicator9000/raidacaipo/SeanK325/HondaPartsHero/Creepsjr/DAP97SI/cjw_89

Bring a flashlight.

Engine:

• Look for d16y7 stamp on the engine.
  Pic - http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...b83/B16A03.jpg
  
• Remove the oil cap and see if there is any milk-like substance. It could indicate oil in the coolant meaning a head gasket problem.
  
• Check for any major oil leaks and figure how you can fix it if its minor such as head gasket replacement etc..
  
• Ask owner when the last timing belt or water pump has been changed
  
• Look at the motor mounts. Make sure they are still good and not that torn. IMO 96-00 Civics have a weaker driver side motor mount than 92-95, and it's occasionally prone to failure. Not too bad, but might want to check it out. As in all Civics, the lower torque mounts are extremely prone to failure, but I wouldn't worry about them... they're not hard to replace.
  
• Check around oilpan area for leaks. Oilpan gaskets seem to leak a little when they're old. Not too hard to fix, and not a dealkiller, but check it out.
  
• Remove the cover of the exhaust manifold and check for a crack, this is very common on the 97's.
  
• If it has the factory manifold which has the cat built on watch out for the primary o2 sensor. I havnt seen one yet that wasn't split where the o2 bung is built in.
  
• Check condition of exhaust. If it's original, it WILL have some rust. You're looking to see how bad the rust is, or whether it's been replaced. Worst area is usually the front end of the B-pipe at the cat flange. Not a huge deal, but it'll fail eventually, so decide if you can live with it. Also see if the cat has been replaced, as that would hopefully stave off an 0420 code for a few more years.

Drivetrain:

• Check rear trailing arm bushings. They're also prone to failure, and are a MAJOR pain to replace. If they're a little worn, it's not a dealkiller, but sometimes they fail pretty bad.
  
• Check wheelstuds, especially front. They're a major pain to replace on the front. This would be a dealkiller for me on any car at a dealer. To have a front wheelstud fixed RIGHT by a shop, expect about $240.
  
• If you can, jack up each corner and see if you can wiggle the wheel back and forth to check for bearing play.
  
• Check the CV axles to make sure the boots aren't ripped or popping when turning.
  
• Drive the car make sure it doesn't have any shakes or odd noises at all speeds.
  
• Make sure the brakes don't have any pulsation when stopping from a higher speed.

Body:

• Check spare tire area for water. Could indicate improper collision fix, clogged sunroof drains or leaks from the tail lights.
  
• Pull back carpet and check ECU area (passenger kick panel) for signs of water.
  
• Check rear wheelwells for rust. 96-00 Civics don't rust nearly as bad as 92-95, but I've seen a few with the cancer. From the factory, there are black rub strips along the rear wheelwells; the rust typically starts under them. Pull them back to look for rust underneath. If you end up buying the car, throw them away.
  
• Also, check if the paint color looks the same all around, including the "orange peel" texture of the paint. This is something that requires good sunlight, but there is nothing worse then a poorly matched paint job, which it seems insurance companies always strive for (hey, the cheaper the fix, the better! 99% of people would never even notice!)

Misc:

• Put the key in, turn it to the on position (don't actually start the car), and see if the "check engine" light comes on for 2 or 3 seconds. If no "check engine" light comes on, it probably means the bulb was pulled from behind the gauges and somebody is trying to cover something up.

Big thanks to everyone for their input. If there's any other advice you can add, post it and I'll add it to the list!

raidacaipo

-Engine, look for d16y7 stamp on the engine.
-Check for any major oil leaks and figure how you can fix it if its minor such as head gasket replacement etc..
-Ask owner when the last timing belt or water pump has been changed
-Look at the motor mounts. Make sure they are still good and not that torn.
-Take it out for a test drive. See if it needs an alignment or if you hear any weird noises such as wheel bearing issues.
-Take it out on the freeway and drive it about 70mph and see if it gets worst or not.

*If you need more help just put up pictures of it here on honda-tech. This is the best solution because we can examine it under a microscope if you know what I mean.

SeanK325

you can also tell if the car has been hit or had any body work done by finding the VIN stickers on the panels. every panel, bumper, fender, door, etc. has the honda vin sticker on it. however, make sure the VIN numbers match. if it's not there or the vin doesn't match the original one from the car, then that usually means it's been replaced for some reason. look for damage around that area.

HondaPartsHero

Check the CV axles to make sure the boots aren't ripped or popping when turning.
Drive the car make sure it doesn't have any shakes or odd noises at all speeds.
Make sure the brakes don't have any pulsation when stopping from a higher speed.

To me if you are willing to fix some minor problems (maintenance type issues) it just something to bring to the table with the buyer to talk them down on the price because more than likely they know that it needs those things.

Vindicator9000

^^^All of this.

A few more thoughts:

First, bring a flashlight. You'll need it for the super-duper Vindicator9000 checklist.

Check rear wheelwells for rust. 96-00 Civics don't rust nearly as bad as 92-95, but I've seen a few with the cancer. From the factory, there are black rub strips along the rear wheelwells; the rust typically starts under them. Pull them back to look for rust underneath. If you end up buying the car, throw them away.

Check spare tire area for water. Could indicate improper collision fix or clogged sunroof drains.

Pull back carpet and check ECU area (passenger kick panel) for signs of water. This is more of a problem on DelSols, EGs, and CRVs, but check it anyway.

Check rear trailing arm bushings. They're also prone to failure, and are a MAJOR pain to replace. If they're a little worn, it's not a dealkiller, but sometimes they fail pretty bad.

Check wheelstuds, especially front. They're a major pain to replace on the front. This would be a dealkiller for me on any car at a dealer. To have a front wheelstud fixed RIGHT by a shop, expect about $240.

Check around oilpan area for leaks. Oilpan gaskets seem to leak a little when they're old. Not too hard to fix, and not a dealkiller, but check it out.

IMO 96-00 Civics have a weaker driver side motor mount than 92-95, and it's occasionally prone to failure. Not too bad, but might want to check it out. As in all Civics, the lower torque mounts are extremely prone to failure, but I wouldn't worry about them... they're not hard to replace.

As someone already said, check CV joints for leaking.

Pop the radiator and check for signs of oil in the coolant - Could indicate headgasket problem.

Check condition of exhaust. If it's original, it WILL have some rust. You're looking to see how bad the rust is, or whether it's been replaced. Worst area is usually the front end of the B-pipe at the cat flange. Not a huge deal, but it'll fail eventually, so decide if you can live with it. Also see if the cat has been replaced, as that would hopefully stave off an 0420 code for a few more years.

If you can, jack up each corner and see if you can wiggle the wheel back and forth to check for bearing play.

That's probably about it. I'm convinced that my 2000 Civic is the most reliable car ever made. 230K, and it's never broken down once, and has no rust. Really, you just want to find one that hasn't been riced.

cjw_89

DONT take this offensive but i could be wrong but didnt honda come out with the vin #'s all over the car in 99++ ? id say i am wrong but my buddy has after been having a few and myself.Anyways,this thread is for helping people. DOUBLE TRIPLE check you k frame.Its what bolts to your body in front and houses the control arms,sterring rack etc...They rust out bad on 96-2000 for some reason.

Vindicator9000

Hmm, I haven't seen that, but it's possible. When I pulled my engine out, mine had 2 small spots of rust on it at the crimps. I just hit it with a wire wheel and sprayed over it.

Definitely look at that, because it ain't easy to replace.

Creepsjr

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet, but, put the key in, turn it to the on position (don't actually start the car), and see if the "check engine" light comes on for 2 or 3 seconds. If no "check engine" light comes on, it probably means the bulb was pulled from behind the gauges and somebody is trying to cover something up. Oddly enough, I've seen this a couple times! If it stays on, that's another issue all in its self.

Also, check if the paint color looks the same all around, including the "orange peel" texture of the paint. This is something that requires good sunlight, but there is nothing worse then a poorly matched paint job, which it seems insurance companies always strive for (hey, the cheaper the fix, the better! 99% of people would never even notice!)

DAP97SI

iTrader: (2)

remove the cover of the exhaust manifold and check for a crack, this is very common on the 97's.

check the spare tire area because hatches usually leak from the tail lights.

remove the oil cap and see if there is any milk-like substance

cjw_89

I have heard people say,if you remove that cel bulb and sell your car you can get charged big time for tampering?Is that true.???

cjw_89

Well i live in nfld canada and rust is something we have to deal with .They are know to rust more so then 92-95s.I had a hatch that was rotten.Done inside out all new rockers the whole shot.The cradle was mint.Where as my buddys 98 sedan the cradle was rotten!! They are a hell of alot easier to swap out if you have a swaybar.Reason being you can get it up in place and shove the bolts your shock bolts onto on the lca and it stays in place and won't sag.Been there done that.

Also if it has the factory manifold which has the cat built on watch out for the primary o2 sensor.I havnt seen one yet that wasn't split where the o2 bung is built in..

cjw_89

well i guess i should of read all the post before i replied. DAP97SI already covered the o2 bung lol.

htxb

Wow, thanks for all the info and advice, everyone!
That's one major difference btwn owning a Honda and owning a Nissan...there's no nissan-tech.com!

I'm having a hard time finding a buyer for my sentra. Mostly I've gotten calls from people who don't speak much english and they want to buy it for next to nothing.

It's frustrating because I've seen 3 really nice looking 1 or 2 owner ek hatches come and go while trying to sell my car.

If anyone can add to the list of things to look out for feel free. I'll keep y'all posted on my mission to ditch the weaksauce sentra and get back to my Honda roots.

htxb

Someone came to look at the car. I was pretty excited until I opened the hood and saw a fine mist of coolant spewing out of a small crack in the radiator.

They didn't buy the car.

Time to run to walmart for some jb weld and a bottle of coolant.

DAP97SI

iTrader: (2)

wow that sucks, hope you can sell it soon

htxb

What would a milky substance indicate?

htxb

What's wrong with the front of this car? Is it a 99-00 civic with the bumper from a 96-98 civic?

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/1828736538.html

cjw_89

that would be a 99-2000 civic hatch with a 96-98 front bumper also a 99-2000 right rear tail and a 96-98 left rear tail light

Vindicator9000

It would indicate that oil is mixing with coolant, and thus that you have a headgasket problem.

I wouldn't worry too much about replacing a radiator, if that's the only problem.

I know what you're saying about lowballers... I called a guy on Craigslist who said he was looking for a CRV. I told him that I had a 99 with 112K that I'd let go for "3 or 4." He said he thought he could do it, until I told him I meant 3 or 4 thousand. He was totally shocked that someone would want 3500 for a clean low mileage CRV... He was looking more for 3-4 HUNDRED.

Damned people.

94EG8

IIRC '96 was the first year for vin tags on body panels on civics.

I've seen this before, we had one at work, had a 2 inch hole right through it, rear trailing arm on the passenger's side was almost rotted off too, all in around where the spindle bolts the arm was mostly not there. Body however looked pretty good.

cjw_89

icicic. Its good to know this stuff bys.As for the rust situation.Do anyone find it that 92-95 are way rustier then 96-2000's.Yes i know the 96-00 is newer but god dam the eg6 and coupes are rustyyy

builthatch

boy this is absolutely the truth.

if well-maintained, and unmolested, 96-00 civics can literally last forever. IMO they are perfectly engineered versions of basic transportation.

htxb

Thanks bro, me too!

sheesh...frankencivic. "it's alllive....it's allliiiive!"


Yeah...I really think cars like this are becoming things of the past.

htxb

Well, made a Walmart run for some JB Weld. While I was there I picked up a bottle of r134a to charge up my a/c system to see if that would help make it less pathetic. I mainly bought it because it came with a gauge to test the pressure of your system to see if it was low or not.

Sure enough, mine was low so I charged it up and it made a pretty big difference. Hopefully it will stay that way, otherwise the a/c system may have a leak. I really don't want to put any more money into the Sentra. I know I'm not going to get it back at this point.

I'm really looking forward to getting back into a Honda. One of the things I enjoyed about the EG hatch I had was that any time there was a problem, I could usually find out how to do the repairs on here.

I learned a lot with that car. It never had any major mechanical problems, even though it had been put through some tough use. The worst was when I took it to Walmart to do an oil change. I typically did my own oil changes but wasn't in the mood to do it that time. BIG mistake! The geniuses at Walmart stabbed a screwdriver thru the oil filter to remove it. When they realized that they didn't have a replacement oil filter for my car, they put the old one back on, holes and all.

I noticed my car was leaking oil but thought it was because maybe they didn't replace the washer for the oil plug (which they probably didn't). It wasn't until a few days later that I realized what had happened. I had run with very little oil in my car for several days and it still ran like a champ for me. When it was all resolved, I was refunded the money for the oil change and given a new battery. I probably could have argued for more but I was content with that.

htxb

Thanks to everyone for their help and input! I compiled all the tips into an itemized list and added it to the first post. If anyone can think of anything else, feel free to post it up and I'll add it to "the list".