What kind of clutch should I get?
11-01-2002, 10:16 PM
#1
Bloody Beaver
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What kind of clutch should I get?
Currently on my 93 Civic Ex, I have a Apex N1 Catback, and an AEM CAI...
my future plans are for a DC 4-1 Header, Crower Stage 2 cams w/ Spring/Retainer Kit, Apex V-AFC, and a Skunk 2 IM, and maybe some other minor bolt ons, and an ignition kit....
BUT before I buy all that, I want/ need a new clutch, so what stage/brand clutch would you guys recomend with those mods in mind, also when I get the clutch I'm also planning on a Clutchmasters Flywheel.
my future plans are for a DC 4-1 Header, Crower Stage 2 cams w/ Spring/Retainer Kit, Apex V-AFC, and a Skunk 2 IM, and maybe some other minor bolt ons, and an ignition kit....
BUT before I buy all that, I want/ need a new clutch, so what stage/brand clutch would you guys recomend with those mods in mind, also when I get the clutch I'm also planning on a Clutchmasters Flywheel.
11-01-2002, 10:29 PM
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Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (Evil Civic)
11-01-2002, 11:01 PM
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Bloody Beaver
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Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (KAMiN)
Would the Action Heavy Duty Street Clutch, at http://www.exospeed.com, be what I'd want?
11-01-2002, 11:04 PM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (Evil Civic)
this is what i have
its the greatest clutch ive ever used.
its TOTALLY streetable and pedal feel is awesome.
but i was planning on boost. so i went with a hardcore clutch.
what are your future plans for the car?
Hardcore Racer: Significantly stronger pressure on the pedal but can still be street driven.
Dual diaphragm pressure plate & 4 or 6 puck solid disc.
Strong clutch setup for high boost forced induction cars and high HP all motor cars.
Hardcore Racer.....$325.00
Dual diaphragm pressure plate & 4 or 6 puck solid disc.
Strong clutch setup for high boost forced induction cars and high HP all motor cars.
Hardcore Racer.....$325.00
its TOTALLY streetable and pedal feel is awesome.
but i was planning on boost. so i went with a hardcore clutch.
what are your future plans for the car?
11-01-2002, 11:08 PM
#7
Bloody Beaver
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Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (KAMiN)
what are your future plans for the car?
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11-01-2002, 11:19 PM
#8
HT White Ops
Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (Evil Civic)
Yes, I think that would be perfect. I would stay away from solid hubs and pucks.
With clutches, everything is counter-intuitive. Less is more, and more is less. For instance, 4-puck discs grab (on the strip) and jerk (on the street) more than 6-puck discs. Both of them grab and jerk WAY MORE than full-face discs. If you're going to drive on the street, stay away from pucks.
As far as the spring hubs go, when your talking torsional forces, something has to give somewhere. Personally, I'd rather have the clutch hub springs absorbing the driveline shock[s], rather than my syncros, gears, axles and CV joints.
Anyway, I think you'll be happy with the setup you mentioned. Can't say that about what the 'bench racers' are undoubtedly going to recommend...
With clutches, everything is counter-intuitive. Less is more, and more is less. For instance, 4-puck discs grab (on the strip) and jerk (on the street) more than 6-puck discs. Both of them grab and jerk WAY MORE than full-face discs. If you're going to drive on the street, stay away from pucks.
As far as the spring hubs go, when your talking torsional forces, something has to give somewhere. Personally, I'd rather have the clutch hub springs absorbing the driveline shock[s], rather than my syncros, gears, axles and CV joints.
Anyway, I think you'll be happy with the setup you mentioned. Can't say that about what the 'bench racers' are undoubtedly going to recommend...
11-01-2002, 11:31 PM
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Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (JDMb18civic)
thanks guys, I think I'm pretty much settled on the Action HD street. Not to pricey, and it seems like the right one. 
11-01-2002, 11:52 PM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (BlackDeuceCoupe)
Yes, I think that would be perfect. I would stay away from solid hubs and pucks.
With clutches, everything is counter-intuitive. Less is more, and more is less. For instance, 4-puck discs grab (on the strip) and jerk (on the street) more than 6-puck discs. Both of them grab and jerk WAY MORE than full-face discs. If you're going to drive on the street, stay away from pucks.
As far as the spring hubs go, when your talking torsional forces, something has to give somewhere. Personally, I'd rather have the clutch hub springs absorbing the driveline shock[s], rather than my syncros, gears, axles and CV joints.
Anyway, I think you'll be happy with the setup you mentioned. Can't say that about what the 'bench racers' are undoubtedly going to recommend...
With clutches, everything is counter-intuitive. Less is more, and more is less. For instance, 4-puck discs grab (on the strip) and jerk (on the street) more than 6-puck discs. Both of them grab and jerk WAY MORE than full-face discs. If you're going to drive on the street, stay away from pucks.
As far as the spring hubs go, when your talking torsional forces, something has to give somewhere. Personally, I'd rather have the clutch hub springs absorbing the driveline shock[s], rather than my syncros, gears, axles and CV joints.
Anyway, I think you'll be happy with the setup you mentioned. Can't say that about what the 'bench racers' are undoubtedly going to recommend...
but i just put that clutch in and it is COMPLETLEY streetable.
it shifts just like a stock clutch with a little practice but once you open it up you can snap axles
a sprung hub will engage harsher than a solid hub on a disc. that is also a major factor, i have the 6puck unsprung hub.
11-02-2002, 12:54 AM
#13
HT White Ops
Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (KAMiN)
I think we're in basic agreement, KAMiN, but if you don't mind, let me copy 'n' paste something here. It's rather lengthly, but informative, especially for someone about to lay down their hard-earned cash.
My apologies, in advance, to those that have read this 1000 times before...
Special thanks to the author from Red Line Performance
So you're looking for a clutch, and you decide to call your local speed performance shop to discuss your options. The first questions you need to ask yourself are, "How much power am I making and how streetable do I want my car to be?". There are several options ranging from clutch kits that utilize pressure plates to increase torque handling capacity, clutch kits that utilize clutch discs to increase torque handling capacity, and clutch kits that utilize both the pressure plate and the clutch disc. You also have to decide whether you want the center section on the clutch disc to be sprung or un sprung. Choosing the right combination will yield impeccable results that will show in your 60 foot times and when driving around town. Choosing the wrong combination will result in a car that is barely driveable on the street.
Rule # 1
Don't go overboard when selecting a clutch. Often times people choose the meanest, heavy duty, gripping clutch combination out there. After their " top gun" clutch is installed, they find that they have far too much clutch. They'll experience difficulty launching in 1st gear because the clutch wants to "grab", and smooth engagement becomes a thing of the past. Trying to ease off the clutch results in either a terrible bog with your dashboard shaking from chatter, or your tires chirping from clutch engagement happening too harshly.
Rule # 2
Don't go to radical on the clutch disc for a street driven application. On a disc, the higher the friction rate, the higher chance it will chatter. "Pucks", "pads", or "buttons", will always have a higher friction rate than a full face disc. It’s always better to go with an organic full face disc coupled with a pressure plate that will increase torque handling capacity on a street driven application.
Some people think that the more pucks you have, the better bite you'll get, when in fact, it is the other way around. The less pucks you have on a disc, the greater the bite. Just think of it in terms of PSI. If you have 6 pucks on a disc, then you have X amount of PSI (delivered by the pressure plate) to be distributed among those 6 pucks to the flywheel. If you have 4 pucks, then the pressure plate will have to distribute that same amount of PSI onto four pucks, so the grip rate multiplies per puck. This also creates more heat per puck thus increasing the friction rate.
Three and four puck discs are designated for drag only vehicles that spend most of their time on a trailer. These vehicles produce so much torque that it’s their only choice. I'm not saying that a street driven vehicle can't run a four puck because there are several people that run them and drive their cars on a daily basis. It just makes life harder when in sitting in traffic due to the hard engagement and anxiousness to bite. These discs are available for when the upgraded pressure plate alone can not hold the increased torque output of a full race motor. Running a three or four puck disc will also increase the shock that the driveline sees which results in; premature wear of the axles, constant velocity joints, transmission, and motor mounts.
Six puck discs are available to those who want a disc that will hold a great deal of torque such as in high output turbocharged vehicles that see the track on a regular basis. These are somewhat tolerable on the street but still exhibit the traits of three and four puck discs. Engagement is a little smoother than a four puck, but still harsh enough to be considered a race only clutch.
A full face disc is the choice for those seeking the smoothest engagement possible. This does not mean that you can not go fast with a full face disc. For example, Tim Swytzer has used a full face disc coupled with an ACT pressure plate to gain 10 second status in his full street trim Talon. A full face disc, when coupled with a heavy duty pressure plate, allows for a killer street and strip combination. For all wheel drive vehicles, this is an excellent combination allowing dramatic 60 foots while still providing enough of a "fuse" to keep the drive train intact. It is also a good combination for those seeking a good street clutch that will provide enough slip to keep the tires hooked up. Slipping is good to a certain extent. Front wheel drag racers that compete on street tires know that keeping the tires hooked up is important, so a clutch that provides enough slip and enough grip is crucial. A clutch combination that would engage to harsh would result in wheel spin, no matter how hard the owner tries to slip it.
Sprung or Unsprung?
According to a handbook printed by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), sprung center section discs have evolved to combat crankshaft torsional vibrations. There is this common misconception that the springs are there to reduce "chatter", a word the clutch industry has developed which describes the quick jerking action of the motor when the clutch wants to grab the flywheel. They don't reduce chatter but they actually increase it in most applications!. When an internal combustion motor spins, it’s crankshaft produces a lot of oscillation. This oscillation is then transferred to the transmission which results in gear noise. The damper springs were added on the clutch disc to reduce the vibrations that were transmitted from the crank to the gears in order to reduce gear noise. These damper springs work great with a stock disc and a stock pressure plate combination because they are designed to absorb vibration at a stock friction rate. When the friction rate is increased, as in a performance clutch, chatter occurs. The engineers who designed your stock clutch and stock pressure plate combination spent countless hours finding the right spring rate which allows torsional vibration absorption and chatter free operation. Therefore when you upgrade to a performance clutch, the spring rates are unchanged on most performance discs, but the friction rate is increased through the use of pucks and/or metallic facings, so the end result is a clutch that will chatter.
"Wait!, I have a solid hub disc and I still experience chatter!!" you might be saying. There are two reasons this will happen. One, during installation of the new solid hub clutch disc, some less experienced do-it-yourselfers will tend to leave the transmission hanging on the input shaft alone! Don't do this with a solid hub disc (or any disc for that matter) because it doesn't allow for any slack. When the tranny is left hanging for undetermined amounts of time before it gets bolted up safely, the weight of the tranny being supported by the input shaft will bend the center of solid hub discs, resulting in a disc that will chatter. Sprung hubs don't experience this dilemma because the springs allow for some sort of "give." Regardless of which hub you choose, you should have a professional shop do the install and insure a tranny jack is used. The second reason you will experience chatter with a solid hub disc is your motor mounts have failed or are not strong enough to keep the engine in place. Flexible engine mounts were used in vehicles to prevent high speed vibrations from the engine to the frame and body of the vehicle. When the clutch is engaged, the engine will rock back and forth on these flexible engine mounts very quickly giving you chatter. Stiffer aftermarket engine mounts are available to reduce chatter for most vehicles.
I went through AEM, ACT, Centerforce, and Clutchmasters in a quest to find the ultimate clutch combination out there that combines smooth engagement and high torque capability. The truth is there is no one particular superman clutch that can do it all for every vehicle . [emphasis added] In fact one manufacturer went on to admit that "I believe that there are clutch kits available from different manufacturers that perform better than ours in certain applications, but at the same time, we have clutch kits that perform better than theirs". All manufacturers have different stages for different levels of performance.
EXEDY
AEM, distributer of Exedy clutches, provides two different stages for the performance enthusiast. Steve Trinkaus of AEM recommends the Exedy organic clutch kit for road racers and those producing up to 100 HP over stock. The Exedy cera-metallic clutch kit is recommend for applications where high amounts of Nitrous Oxide and/or high horsepower turbo applications are being used. The Exedy clutch kits come with a 1 year /12,000 mile limited warranty against manufacturers defects. Exedy is the performance branch of Daiken, which is the OEM manufacturer of clutch kits for most Japanese auto manufacturers. These clutches are pending SFI approval.
ACT
ACT offers several different options of clutches for mildly modded to high output full race vehicles. For a turbocharged Honda Civic, slap in the ACT HD pressure plate with their Xtreme solid hub four puck disc for quick shifts at high rpms and rest assure knowing that it will hold up to 300 ft lbs of torque. For those looking for something a little less extreme, you can run the six puck or a full face disc and enjoy smoother engagement. ACT has been working closely with DSM tuner Dave Buscher in order to provide what the DSM group feels to be is the "Ultimate Street and Strip clutch". Dave Buscher goes on to say, "I have three DSMs running in the 10 sec realm with ACT clutch kits." ACT warrants their clutch kits against mechanical defects for up to 90 days. The solid hub lightweight aluminum design,of their Xtreme discs allow for some of the quickest high RPM shifting you will experience in a manual transmission.
CENTERFORCE
Gene Humrick of Centerforce states they have three different options for racer. The Centerforce Gold which will provide up to a 30 percent increase in holding capacity is a good replacement for those looking for an OEM replacement. The Centerforce II provides a 60 percent increase in holding capacity which is good for those running minor upgrades such as bolt ons and a light shot of nitrous. The Centerforce Dual Friction provides up to a 90 percent increase in holding capacity which is good for mildly turbocharged vehicles or those running moderate shots of Nitrous. Centerforce uses weights on their pressure plates that increase torque holding capacity as the RPMs go up, allowing a light pedal feel. You really don't know it’s a performance clutch until you realize that you’re boosting 18 PSI and the clutch hasn't slipped yet. They also provide a 90 day warranty against defects and material workmanship.
CLUTCHMASTERS
Clutchmasters has five stages of clutch selection. Stage 1 combines their Heavy Duty Pressure Plate with a stock disc and allows enough holding capacity for minor bolt ons and a 50 shot of Nitrous. Stage 2 adds Kevlar to the disc which allows for a longer life expectancy, but requires a critical break in procedure. It was designed to be used with mildly turbocharged vehicles or those running light shots of NOS (50 shot). Stage 3 was designed for vehicles running high output turbochargers, or high doses of NOS ( up to 100 shot). It utilizes a segmented Kevlar disc (same friction composition as stage 2 through a reduction of face material up to 40% on the disc) that is slightly more aggressive than the stage 2 but retains the life expectancy. Stage 4 is reserved for those packing extremely high output turbo systems, and/or extremely high amounts of nitrous (above 100 shot). Their stage 5 is there for those who want the clutch that will "hold it all", as stated by Chris Jewel, owner of Clutchmasters. Don't expect to be happy with this one on the street because it is a race clutch meant to hold all the power you can make. Chris Jewel went on to state that his clutches can be found on 7 of the top 12 quickest Hondas. There is a 45 day warranty against manufacturers defect on all his products, but he insists on 100% customer satisfaction.
WRAPPING IT UP
So there you have it. There is a lot more to choosing a clutch then just picking up the phone and saying , "Give me the baddest one you got!." You have to properly analyze your goals with your vehicle. Whether it be drag racing, road racing, or just plain old spirited driving around town, you need to make sure that your salesperson is clear on what your needs are. Most importantly, you need to be sure that you are clear on what you think your needs are.
My apologies, in advance, to those that have read this 1000 times before...
Special thanks to the author from Red Line Performance
So you're looking for a clutch, and you decide to call your local speed performance shop to discuss your options. The first questions you need to ask yourself are, "How much power am I making and how streetable do I want my car to be?". There are several options ranging from clutch kits that utilize pressure plates to increase torque handling capacity, clutch kits that utilize clutch discs to increase torque handling capacity, and clutch kits that utilize both the pressure plate and the clutch disc. You also have to decide whether you want the center section on the clutch disc to be sprung or un sprung. Choosing the right combination will yield impeccable results that will show in your 60 foot times and when driving around town. Choosing the wrong combination will result in a car that is barely driveable on the street.
Rule # 1
Don't go overboard when selecting a clutch. Often times people choose the meanest, heavy duty, gripping clutch combination out there. After their " top gun" clutch is installed, they find that they have far too much clutch. They'll experience difficulty launching in 1st gear because the clutch wants to "grab", and smooth engagement becomes a thing of the past. Trying to ease off the clutch results in either a terrible bog with your dashboard shaking from chatter, or your tires chirping from clutch engagement happening too harshly.
Rule # 2
Don't go to radical on the clutch disc for a street driven application. On a disc, the higher the friction rate, the higher chance it will chatter. "Pucks", "pads", or "buttons", will always have a higher friction rate than a full face disc. It’s always better to go with an organic full face disc coupled with a pressure plate that will increase torque handling capacity on a street driven application.
Some people think that the more pucks you have, the better bite you'll get, when in fact, it is the other way around. The less pucks you have on a disc, the greater the bite. Just think of it in terms of PSI. If you have 6 pucks on a disc, then you have X amount of PSI (delivered by the pressure plate) to be distributed among those 6 pucks to the flywheel. If you have 4 pucks, then the pressure plate will have to distribute that same amount of PSI onto four pucks, so the grip rate multiplies per puck. This also creates more heat per puck thus increasing the friction rate.
Three and four puck discs are designated for drag only vehicles that spend most of their time on a trailer. These vehicles produce so much torque that it’s their only choice. I'm not saying that a street driven vehicle can't run a four puck because there are several people that run them and drive their cars on a daily basis. It just makes life harder when in sitting in traffic due to the hard engagement and anxiousness to bite. These discs are available for when the upgraded pressure plate alone can not hold the increased torque output of a full race motor. Running a three or four puck disc will also increase the shock that the driveline sees which results in; premature wear of the axles, constant velocity joints, transmission, and motor mounts.
Six puck discs are available to those who want a disc that will hold a great deal of torque such as in high output turbocharged vehicles that see the track on a regular basis. These are somewhat tolerable on the street but still exhibit the traits of three and four puck discs. Engagement is a little smoother than a four puck, but still harsh enough to be considered a race only clutch.
A full face disc is the choice for those seeking the smoothest engagement possible. This does not mean that you can not go fast with a full face disc. For example, Tim Swytzer has used a full face disc coupled with an ACT pressure plate to gain 10 second status in his full street trim Talon. A full face disc, when coupled with a heavy duty pressure plate, allows for a killer street and strip combination. For all wheel drive vehicles, this is an excellent combination allowing dramatic 60 foots while still providing enough of a "fuse" to keep the drive train intact. It is also a good combination for those seeking a good street clutch that will provide enough slip to keep the tires hooked up. Slipping is good to a certain extent. Front wheel drag racers that compete on street tires know that keeping the tires hooked up is important, so a clutch that provides enough slip and enough grip is crucial. A clutch combination that would engage to harsh would result in wheel spin, no matter how hard the owner tries to slip it.
Sprung or Unsprung?
According to a handbook printed by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), sprung center section discs have evolved to combat crankshaft torsional vibrations. There is this common misconception that the springs are there to reduce "chatter", a word the clutch industry has developed which describes the quick jerking action of the motor when the clutch wants to grab the flywheel. They don't reduce chatter but they actually increase it in most applications!. When an internal combustion motor spins, it’s crankshaft produces a lot of oscillation. This oscillation is then transferred to the transmission which results in gear noise. The damper springs were added on the clutch disc to reduce the vibrations that were transmitted from the crank to the gears in order to reduce gear noise. These damper springs work great with a stock disc and a stock pressure plate combination because they are designed to absorb vibration at a stock friction rate. When the friction rate is increased, as in a performance clutch, chatter occurs. The engineers who designed your stock clutch and stock pressure plate combination spent countless hours finding the right spring rate which allows torsional vibration absorption and chatter free operation. Therefore when you upgrade to a performance clutch, the spring rates are unchanged on most performance discs, but the friction rate is increased through the use of pucks and/or metallic facings, so the end result is a clutch that will chatter.
"Wait!, I have a solid hub disc and I still experience chatter!!" you might be saying. There are two reasons this will happen. One, during installation of the new solid hub clutch disc, some less experienced do-it-yourselfers will tend to leave the transmission hanging on the input shaft alone! Don't do this with a solid hub disc (or any disc for that matter) because it doesn't allow for any slack. When the tranny is left hanging for undetermined amounts of time before it gets bolted up safely, the weight of the tranny being supported by the input shaft will bend the center of solid hub discs, resulting in a disc that will chatter. Sprung hubs don't experience this dilemma because the springs allow for some sort of "give." Regardless of which hub you choose, you should have a professional shop do the install and insure a tranny jack is used. The second reason you will experience chatter with a solid hub disc is your motor mounts have failed or are not strong enough to keep the engine in place. Flexible engine mounts were used in vehicles to prevent high speed vibrations from the engine to the frame and body of the vehicle. When the clutch is engaged, the engine will rock back and forth on these flexible engine mounts very quickly giving you chatter. Stiffer aftermarket engine mounts are available to reduce chatter for most vehicles.
I went through AEM, ACT, Centerforce, and Clutchmasters in a quest to find the ultimate clutch combination out there that combines smooth engagement and high torque capability. The truth is there is no one particular superman clutch that can do it all for every vehicle . [emphasis added] In fact one manufacturer went on to admit that "I believe that there are clutch kits available from different manufacturers that perform better than ours in certain applications, but at the same time, we have clutch kits that perform better than theirs". All manufacturers have different stages for different levels of performance.
EXEDY
AEM, distributer of Exedy clutches, provides two different stages for the performance enthusiast. Steve Trinkaus of AEM recommends the Exedy organic clutch kit for road racers and those producing up to 100 HP over stock. The Exedy cera-metallic clutch kit is recommend for applications where high amounts of Nitrous Oxide and/or high horsepower turbo applications are being used. The Exedy clutch kits come with a 1 year /12,000 mile limited warranty against manufacturers defects. Exedy is the performance branch of Daiken, which is the OEM manufacturer of clutch kits for most Japanese auto manufacturers. These clutches are pending SFI approval.
ACT
ACT offers several different options of clutches for mildly modded to high output full race vehicles. For a turbocharged Honda Civic, slap in the ACT HD pressure plate with their Xtreme solid hub four puck disc for quick shifts at high rpms and rest assure knowing that it will hold up to 300 ft lbs of torque. For those looking for something a little less extreme, you can run the six puck or a full face disc and enjoy smoother engagement. ACT has been working closely with DSM tuner Dave Buscher in order to provide what the DSM group feels to be is the "Ultimate Street and Strip clutch". Dave Buscher goes on to say, "I have three DSMs running in the 10 sec realm with ACT clutch kits." ACT warrants their clutch kits against mechanical defects for up to 90 days. The solid hub lightweight aluminum design,of their Xtreme discs allow for some of the quickest high RPM shifting you will experience in a manual transmission.
CENTERFORCE
Gene Humrick of Centerforce states they have three different options for racer. The Centerforce Gold which will provide up to a 30 percent increase in holding capacity is a good replacement for those looking for an OEM replacement. The Centerforce II provides a 60 percent increase in holding capacity which is good for those running minor upgrades such as bolt ons and a light shot of nitrous. The Centerforce Dual Friction provides up to a 90 percent increase in holding capacity which is good for mildly turbocharged vehicles or those running moderate shots of Nitrous. Centerforce uses weights on their pressure plates that increase torque holding capacity as the RPMs go up, allowing a light pedal feel. You really don't know it’s a performance clutch until you realize that you’re boosting 18 PSI and the clutch hasn't slipped yet. They also provide a 90 day warranty against defects and material workmanship.
CLUTCHMASTERS
Clutchmasters has five stages of clutch selection. Stage 1 combines their Heavy Duty Pressure Plate with a stock disc and allows enough holding capacity for minor bolt ons and a 50 shot of Nitrous. Stage 2 adds Kevlar to the disc which allows for a longer life expectancy, but requires a critical break in procedure. It was designed to be used with mildly turbocharged vehicles or those running light shots of NOS (50 shot). Stage 3 was designed for vehicles running high output turbochargers, or high doses of NOS ( up to 100 shot). It utilizes a segmented Kevlar disc (same friction composition as stage 2 through a reduction of face material up to 40% on the disc) that is slightly more aggressive than the stage 2 but retains the life expectancy. Stage 4 is reserved for those packing extremely high output turbo systems, and/or extremely high amounts of nitrous (above 100 shot). Their stage 5 is there for those who want the clutch that will "hold it all", as stated by Chris Jewel, owner of Clutchmasters. Don't expect to be happy with this one on the street because it is a race clutch meant to hold all the power you can make. Chris Jewel went on to state that his clutches can be found on 7 of the top 12 quickest Hondas. There is a 45 day warranty against manufacturers defect on all his products, but he insists on 100% customer satisfaction.
WRAPPING IT UP
So there you have it. There is a lot more to choosing a clutch then just picking up the phone and saying , "Give me the baddest one you got!." You have to properly analyze your goals with your vehicle. Whether it be drag racing, road racing, or just plain old spirited driving around town, you need to make sure that your salesperson is clear on what your needs are. Most importantly, you need to be sure that you are clear on what you think your needs are.
11-02-2002, 02:50 AM
#14
D Tranny Guru
Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (Evil Civic)
with all the little bolt-ons, stock will do you good.
Figure I ran mid 13's on a stock SOHC clutch, launching at 7000+ rpm and 85 shot of nitrous, 1.87 60 foot times.
I "upgraded" to a used Centerforce Dual Friction setup.
Too much clutch kills diffs.
BTW you list cams, but give no motor info. Got a duck swap?
Figure I ran mid 13's on a stock SOHC clutch, launching at 7000+ rpm and 85 shot of nitrous, 1.87 60 foot times.
I "upgraded" to a used Centerforce Dual Friction setup.
Too much clutch kills diffs.
BTW you list cams, but give no motor info. Got a duck swap?
11-02-2002, 04:29 AM
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (Evil Civic)
ACT Hd steet organic disc works for me, a lot of autocrossing an dhard street driving, two years and going strong.
if you are gonna install a new clutch, now is the BEST time to get a light flywheel installed too. no joke. wish I had done that with my clutch, because dropping a tranny just isnt as fun as it used to be
if you are gonna install a new clutch, now is the BEST time to get a light flywheel installed too. no joke. wish I had done that with my clutch, because dropping a tranny just isnt as fun as it used to be
11-02-2002, 04:59 AM
#16
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: The Burbs, Mass
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Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (Evil Civic)
Most of the guys I race with actually run the stock Honda clutch (autocrossing)
When I built my car, I used the stock Honda clutch and I'm very happy with it.
11-02-2002, 06:41 AM
#17
Re: What kind of clutch should I get? (EPrepCivic)
one thing i don't think that was touched on here was the flywheel...
im not to up on the clutchmasters flywheel, just make sure it isn't too light, this will also make the car harder to drive on the street, the revs will go up faster, but they will also fall faster
currently im running a centerforce dual friction with a type r flywheel and i love it, the motor revs a little quicker, but still is very friendly on the street
stock flywheels i believe are around 19lbs, type r i think is around 14lbs, if you can stay in the 12 to 14lbs area that would be best imo
im not to up on the clutchmasters flywheel, just make sure it isn't too light, this will also make the car harder to drive on the street, the revs will go up faster, but they will also fall faster
currently im running a centerforce dual friction with a type r flywheel and i love it, the motor revs a little quicker, but still is very friendly on the street
stock flywheels i believe are around 19lbs, type r i think is around 14lbs, if you can stay in the 12 to 14lbs area that would be best imo
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