What internals should I do.
10-19-2010, 05:42 PM
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What internals should I do.
Okay so I'm going to give you a list of mods of my engine, and my goal is to boost my car, so that's what I'm getting ready to do. (500whp ish, so I want to build it right) I want to know what brands I should do for cams and valve train, etc. that will work good together with my current mods, and also what sleeves and rods for my block that will also work good with my current mods. Below is a list of just the mods of my engine. The suspension is all taken care of so no worries there::
Stock b16 head, Skunk 2 intake manifold, Spoon throttle body, aem fuel rail and pressure gage, aem cai, SAFC II.
B18a block, cometic head, wiseco low compression pistons, arp headstuds.
GSR tranny, stage 2 clutch with fidanza flywheel.
Stock b16 head, Skunk 2 intake manifold, Spoon throttle body, aem fuel rail and pressure gage, aem cai, SAFC II.
B18a block, cometic head, wiseco low compression pistons, arp headstuds.
GSR tranny, stage 2 clutch with fidanza flywheel.
10-20-2010, 11:56 AM
#3
Re: What internals should I do.
Supertech has good valvetrain and it's a good deal while still being excellent quality.
For retainers, keep stock ones or get Crower steel retainers if it's a street motor. For a race engine you will tear down or at least inspect the valvetrain every 20k miles or more, titanium is ok. To make them lighter, most manufacturers remove a lot of material and this leaves the hole where the retainers go being weak and the valve stem can pull through and you end up dropping a valve. Cryo treating and such can help and some manufacturers do have better designs. Just carefully consider all of this.
For cams, a lot of people have made great power on ITR/CTR or GSR cams
You don't need sleeves yet. People have made like 600 on stock GSRs without sleeving.
For rods, any name brand is fine. Crower, Eagle, etc.
For engine management, you'll at least want to run Chrome or Uberdata or something. Hondata would be nice. I'd suggest deciding on if you're going to run an electronic boost controller, data logging, 2 step, boost or fuel cuts and compare that to the price of Hondata. Keep in mind that tuning Hondata is sometimes cheaper. It's not much more to get Hondata if you're going to do all of that.
For retainers, keep stock ones or get Crower steel retainers if it's a street motor. For a race engine you will tear down or at least inspect the valvetrain every 20k miles or more, titanium is ok. To make them lighter, most manufacturers remove a lot of material and this leaves the hole where the retainers go being weak and the valve stem can pull through and you end up dropping a valve. Cryo treating and such can help and some manufacturers do have better designs. Just carefully consider all of this.
For cams, a lot of people have made great power on ITR/CTR or GSR cams
You don't need sleeves yet. People have made like 600 on stock GSRs without sleeving.
For rods, any name brand is fine. Crower, Eagle, etc.
For engine management, you'll at least want to run Chrome or Uberdata or something. Hondata would be nice. I'd suggest deciding on if you're going to run an electronic boost controller, data logging, 2 step, boost or fuel cuts and compare that to the price of Hondata. Keep in mind that tuning Hondata is sometimes cheaper. It's not much more to get Hondata if you're going to do all of that.
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