k on spray

Time to change my ECU it's causing an annoying misfire and I am tired of my idle surging.
Current ECU is a p06-a0
I have a 93 eg coupe ej1 with a b18b1 in it. Any thoughts on what ECU to replace?
Thanks.

TomCat39

obd1 dohc ecu

not surprising you are having issues using a sohc ecu on a dohc motor.

JRCivic1

37820-P74-A00 or A01. You can use a P75 as well. It is plug and play.

k on spray

Thanks a lot!

Megalodong

If your state doiesn't require emissions testsing then you may want to consider a chipped basemap that icludes o2 sensor delete. A good basemap won't require an additional dyno tune (unless you want one).
I purchased a chipped basemap/o2 delete from Phearable about four months ago for my B20/LS and since then idle never fluctuates..stays steady at 750 rpm (no load). Performance seems to be better too compared to the P75 (non-chipped) ECU that was in prior. John Vega (phearable) told me prior to purchase that the basemap is fine for my engine's needs and he was absolutely correct.

k on spray

wow good stuff thanks brother.

JRCivic1

The OP has stated that he has a B18B1... so why do you think a chipped ECU would be better than a stock ECU with the original programming in it for the engine chosen ??? If there are ANY modifications to the engine/install... header, intake, fuel pump, exhaust... one could consider the stock ECU to be a "basemap". The term "basemap" is a STARTING POINT to allow one to crank, idle and part-throttle drive the vehicle around to make sure it's basic function is OK before you go and get it TUNED. Now it is true that a N/A engine is in far less danger to damage than a turbocharged or supercharged engine when operated un-tuned... but one is making a grave mistake assuming that a quality basemap, even from someone as popular as John V at Phearable, is the proper long term solution to your particular engine's operation and one can count on it blindly to operate said engine under all conditions and circumstances without verifying on a dyno the effectiveness of the programming.

Megalodong apparently has not verified the programming of the basemap that he is using, and assuming that all is fine just because it "feels" better than a stock ECU (and he stated that the O2 sensor is turned off in his new tune, which means his P75 ECU was throwing a code for it... CEL on may alter the engine operation in a protective way... sometimes referred to as "limp" mode) and the idle is steady... oh, and the person who wanted to sell him something said it was ok... are all assumptions that could be damaging over the long term.

Bottom line: Anyone who suggests a simple basemap to ride off into the sunset with is WRONG... and by the way, if the engine breaks, those who have suggested such aren't sending any cash your way to help you get running again.

civic402lx

Well said, sir.

Relic1

this conversation has had some hickups (a few deleted posts as well....)

it should have started with the following:
k on spray - what mods do you have to the B18b1?

stock ECUs on minimal moded honda are really hard to beat. (yours would be the P74 or P75, they were both used for your engine)

if you want more (mpg, power, torque, or features) a chipped ECU is always an option. But a street tune is a minimum requirement for any basemap.

Megalodong

Point to me anywhere in my response that I used the word "better" ?.. I only gave an opinion on what worked on my setup.

Do you dyno-tune for a living? Ever created basemaps? Here's the Phearable site and the page I used to order the ECU for my B20 non-Vtec: http://www.phearable.net/engine-comp...-vtec-ecu.html I communictaed with John V several times via e-mail and stated to him I would like an o2 sensor delete since it's not on the drop down menu options. He said no problem and stated that since the motor is N/A and fitted with basically stock intake/exhaust that his basemap will be fine. Unless you have his hands-on experience and knowledge, and I doubt you do, I will take him at his word.

Megalodong stated clearly that it "seems" (not definitive) to feel better than the previous P75 ECU.

The P75 never threw an o2 code as you incorrectly guessed. It was running lean..and why do you think it was running lean? Well, I will tell you..it will always run lean to some extent because the P75 is designed for a 1.8L and the B20 is a 2.0L. So .2 litres (10%) less fuel fuel injected than the cylinders would normally see.
In addition to that was a more intense lean condition that was isolated down via testing that was solved by replacing the p75 ECU.

It was never in limp mode as you once again erroneously guessed.

John V is a member here so maybe he'll read this and enlighten you? Your assumption concerning my assumption is very cliche and just regurgitated throughout the internet by those that do not know better.

He said if I want to get it dyno-tuned then he'll give me $100 off of his normal price since it's a simple n/a. He added that many of his customers drive their N/A, (non-turbo, non supecharged) engines on his basemaps with no reported issues or returns. Why the hell would he steer me away from him making extra income via a dyna-tune by him if he was just out to sell a questionable basemap? Apparently he's very confident in his product and I have no issues or disputes to this point.

Well, since you other guesses were wrong I am going to say that you will most likely be wrong concerning my car's setup. However, only time will tell and if it makes it a few years I will then post again on this thread and gladly rub it in your face. if it fails sooner I will give you your due.

TomCat39

This is probably where all of our responses should be. Thank you Relic.

I am quoting this as a reminder for EVERYONE, lets keep this civil and the pissing contests to a bare minimum.

FYI megalodong, my tuner informed me that Honda typically allows up to 8% variance in AFR so your 10% difference example is just barely past Honda Spec. A good tuner will get you in within 1-2%. As such, if your setup is stock, the basemap will likely be under the 8% and work just fine, thus the advise the seller gave you personally. However, most people do not run stock setups and tend to think a basemap is all they need. That there lies the problem, and unfortunately is the majority of cases. You with a stock setup are a minority and far less common. And following up witha tune will dial it in for your motor specifically. It's well documented the same exact model motor, same mileage and the two or three or four etc all run differently. Exact same B18B1 with the same header and exhaust and they all have different tunes as they never turn out exactly the same. Thus the +/- 8% tolerance by Honda. Honda doesn't tune each motor, they do exactly as the seller has done with you, done a base tune on their tested motor, and apply that to all B18B1's after that.

JRCivic1

Megalodong, what was the reason that you requested the O2 delete on your new map ???

Megalodong

Okay.

Prior to ECU purchase I read a lot of material regarding basemap vs the need for additional dyno tuning with the use of a wide band o2 sensor. Before I communicated with John V. I spoke with a local Honda dealer longtime service manager concerning the lean condition the engine was having at the time. He had performed many swaps himself: both n/a (B20's included) and turbo setups. He was the person that referred me to Phearable and said he's used John's basemap ECU' s in a few n/a builds without issue. So, I made an informed decision.

If my engine had a turbo or supercharger I would opt to have it tuned to avoid a lean burn that could possibly cause pre-detonation and destroy the engine. The OP didn't mention his engine is boosted so I assumed it was n/a and close to stock. Here's his initial post: Time to change my ECU it's causing an annoying misfire and I am tired of my idle surging. Current ECU is a p06-a0I have a 93 eg coupe ej1 with a b18b1 in it. Any thoughts on what ECU to replace?
He stated "it's (ECU)" is causing the misfire and surge. My engine was idling low (500 rpms/no load) and occasionally shutting off. Hondash scanner showed o2 sensor outputting 0 and/or less than ..450v at idle (no related CEL). Replaced the primary o2 sensor with a correct model Denso (OEM) replacement and no change in output readings. Several test performed via the direction of a long-time Honda dealer mechanic on another Civic forum that isolated it down to the ECU.

I agree. However, the problem is the rest of the either correct or misleading information concerning this subject (basemap vs need for dyno-tune) throughout the internet. The correct information seems to come from knowledgeable tuners that share information on their website or are forum members online and post related information. Also from people (such as yourself) that process and understand the information provided to them and post in forums. The incorrect information seems to propagate via false blanket statements that say every chipped basemap ECU needs additional tuning even when the engine in question is stock or near stock n/a swap such as mine.

John V told me that if I decide to get a dyno-tune it will dial it the basemap even further to allow the engine to operate as efficiently as possible. He said power expectations would be up to10 hp, 5-10 torque and most likely increased mpg's. The tune price he quoted me is $400 (usually $500) and I may opt for one in the future but content as is for now. By purchasing a socketed and chipped ECU (as opposed to stock) it's one less step if I do decide to have it tuned in the future.

Megalodong

My engine was idling low (500 rpms/no load) and occasionally shutting off. Hondash scanner showed o2 sensor outputting 0 and/or less than 1.4v at idle (no related CEL). Replaced the primary o2 sensor with a correct model Denso (OEM) replacement and no change in output readings. Several test performed via the direction of a long-time Honda dealer mechanic on another Civic forum that isolated it down to the ECU. B20's + stock ECU + lean conditions appears to be somewhat of an issue: https://www.google.com/search?source....0.R6wOme0KSgo

To note: He (forum..dealer mechanic) did not advise me in anyway of which type ECU or ECU options to choose. I made the decision for o2 delete mostly due to the new replacement o2 sensor not solving the issue. Now the ECU fuel maps handle fuel trims without input from an o2 sensor.

I will not be answering any further questions concerning my setup as this is not my thread and I never intended it to be veered away from the OP's question

Relic1

Megalodong - A B20 with a stock B18 ECU will always run lean. (idle is most noticeable since the engine is the easiest to disrupt)
Likely you were hitting the max value that the ECU could add fuel based on O2 input.
This is an issue with the maps in the ECU not the O2 input.
I'm not bashing disabling the O2, it worked for your setup, I have tuned more than one setup where it will always be disabled. But they had 30+ hours on the dyno (many sessions) and countless hours on the street tuning everything to get it right enough so it didn't need it.

not directed at Megalodong, just so if anyone else reads this.
For a street driven setup, IMO the O2 is never a bad thing, it's a safety device that prevents your engine from running lean (or too rich) under a specific engine loading or TPS setting. This prevents potential serious engine damage.

TomCat39

I'm not sure you realize, but the original post you bolded is the ECU (P06) for the D15B7 (1.5L SOHC) motor and was stuck on a B18B1 (1.8L DOHC) motor.

This combo will not work out well without at the very minimum, chipping and adding a basemap designed for the B18B1.

The OP asked what ecu they should get which the reply was a DOHC OBD1 ecu that closest matches the motor.

After that it should be followed up with the concept of chipping the ECU as added information or alternative.

At that point, then your points on conflicting information could be brought to light if the OP had interest in going that route.

I personally think the OP was looking for a stock ecu to best run the b18b1 likely in stock format.

I unfortunately don't know the B series ECU's so was unable to quote ECU numbers, but that is what I figured the OP was after.

All the additional information about chipping, tuning, basemaps etc is over and beyond what the OP appeared to be looking for, but, it is good information to provide.

Megalodong

I think so too.
I'm sure Phearable has a chipped basemap unit for a 1.8L..the OP didn't specify stock or otherwise..I just gave an opinion based on my experience.