98lsdc

okay. i know the differences between the d16y5-y7-y8-z6 and so on.

my question is, what of those motors is the strongest? not power wise, i mean like reliable, and built to last. I have a td05h dsm 16g turbo, and i need to figure out what civic to buy to put it on.
my goal is a fun daily driver that will last with boost. im not shooting for big hp numbers.

dns92civhatchcx

z6 would be your best bet for boost with a d series. but nothing is better with power and reliability than a gsr or type r there powerful and reliable i mean come on what kinda question is tht were talking bout Honda's here. any Honda motor can handle boost and put out some good power and be reliable and long lasting. but for max power low budget i would go b16 or gsr or type r.

dns92civhatchcx

but if you want mass boost then just get a d series anyone get it sleeved, rods, pistons ect and boost the **** out of it. and stunt threw your town with a bov that sounds like bus brakes and when boost kicks in sounding like a jet taking off and wastegate poping louder than a shotgun.

98lsdc

that gave me a laugh. actually ive had a plan to build a single cam turbo civic for a while now. so i want to do that. it will be a low budget build. maybe after im done putting the turbo in and making sure it runs right ill think about building the motor to handle a few more #s. i am aiming for like 6-8 psi. and im going to try to make it all look as stock as i can.

dns92civhatchcx

wouldnt tht be badass af tho?? to have tht much boost?

98lsdc

yea it would.

furious94ls

D16Y8 with an improved oil pump and a D16Z6 crankshaft.

dns92civhatchcx

but anyway with original question i would say either go z6 or d16A would be your best motor stock and with boost.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

See post #7.

seantobin5

I've got 159,000 (which is nothing on a Honda) on my 98 Civic HX with the D16Y5 engine. About a year ago, Grease Monkey put my oil pan plug in with an impact and stripped it out so I was draining oil onto the highway without realizing it and 130 miles later, I realized there was not a drop of oil in my engine. I got the oil pan replaced, my mechanic also inspected the engine and found there was no wear or metal shavings at all. I wouldn't recommend anyone doing this (First, Grease Monkey refused to pay for it and second, you always want to keep your engine lubricated). That was when the car had about 148,000 miles on it and now it has 159,000 and I haven't had a single issue with the engine. These D series engines are pretty rock solid.

furious94ls

Yayyy, we agree. lol Actually I learned some of that stuff from your threads/posts and then researching it further.

98lsdc

its nice to see people get along. most other forums people are arguing over the "facts" that they found on wikipedia. lol

anyway i think (not positive) i may end up with a 95 Ex with a z6 in it.
if i do, i will start a build thread.

redm3turbo

2 ways to kill a honda...run em hot, run em without oil.

Hidenplanvew

The strongest D block would be the D16A6 block and also has the better crank of the Z6, Z6 heads are my Fav, Vitara build P2P0 rods.

D16 rods are only good for about 220 to 250 whp most of the time, Z6 cams are good for about 400-500whp, I went 10.2 on a D2B, its the way to go! You dont have to sleeve D blocks till about 400 to 500 whp again.

Mr_Canadia

In my opinion I would got with the y8, I swapped that into my wifes car and it hasnt failed me yet that was about 3 and half years ago and we run the car hard! We are running a virgin p28

sde780

No, just no. He wants to know which D-series engine is strongest and you're suggesting B-series

You're safe with a Z6/ZC/A6 block/crank and a VTEC head. The Y7/Y8 cranks only have 1 oiling hole per journal and tend to spin bearings when pushed hard. Of course, there are ways to combat this but if you have the choice, go for the crank with 2 oiling holes

strategy400

I'd say Y8 except the lubrication system sucks (crank) and so either a Z6 or a Y8 with Z6 crank. Depends what OBD system you want too I suppose if that matters.

sde780

Well when you build a D16 for boost you're probably going to be running a chipped OBD1 ecu or standalone, so that's not really a factor. You can disable any sensors you don't need