mikeunreal2

I bought a new ecu beacuse my motor was surging. This solved my problem. I had to adjust my tps on my old ecu to stop the surging, and ever since i plugged in the chipped ecu its been doing this. Its runs alot better with the new ecu. The ecu ran my friends b18 like a dream, so i KNOW the ecu is great. Here is the werid thing. When im driving and i push in the clutch like im coming to a stop, it hangs at about 1500 till i get to a dead stop. Then it falls down to about 800 and seems to shake more than it should. If i have my lights on, it falls down to about 200 and back up to 500-800. What does this sound like to you guys? Does my tps need to be adjusted back?

Mike

mikeunreal2

ahhhhhhhhhh

ianae86

well 800 isn't really a low idle. I mean with lights on I tend to notice a slight drop in idle. My car idles at like 650-700. Once in a while my RPMs will drop and I'll get some vibration in the wheel but other than that I don't think yours sounds like too much to worry about. Unless its shaking REAL bad.

mikeunreal2

the fact of the mater is the idle should drop as soon as the clutch is engaged; not when i come to a dead stop. and yes the shaking is pretty bad at 800 and worse when it dips down to 500 or so with the lights on. this isnt normal...

1SickEG

every car ive had stays up until i come to a dead stop?

MotorMouth

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SickEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">every car ive had stays up until i come to a dead stop?</TD></TR></TABLE>

adjust the big flat head screw on top of your throttle body, then disconnect your -negative terminal for a couple minutes, this should solve the problem.

mikeunreal2

what will this do? what is this doing? every car i have ever had the rpms should drop to idle as soon as the clutch is engaged...its just how it works...mabye not with swapped hondas but this just started. it never used to do this.

ianae86

I think hes suggesting you adjust the idle speed screw.

cheehee

hondas keep rpms up above idle when rolling, usually around 1500 rpm. Once you stop, it should drop to normal idle. adjusting the throttle screw will change how much air is pulled into the engine while at idle (tb butterfly completely closed).

are you comparing to others hondas or cars in general? my friends mazda drops to normal idle even on the freeway if the clutch is in (or not in gear). weirded me out since my car doesn't do that.

mikeunreal2

isnt that going to jump up my idle? But see this is the part that I don't understand. When i had my other ecu the rpms would drop as soon as i engaged teh clutch. It now holds until i stop and when it idles at 800 it shakes. When it gets down to 500 with the lights on, it shakes really bad. Something is wrong. I have a feeling the tps and iacv needs to be adjusted. Wouldnt adjusting the idle screw bring up my idle? I know its at where its suppose to be.

Mike

mikeunreal2

what does your tps control exactly? it never did this before i adjusted my tps

Soccerking3000

the shaking is something mechanical not the ecu, as for it idling high when you are moving its called a rolling idle, crome/uberdata and most like hondata etc. have a place where you can put in the rolling idle which is usually right around 1500 as stated earlier.

So the shaking is probably motor mounts or something, its not the ecu...

artifact kills

yeah my car had that problem too. i guess its common in the older hondas. I was told to try cleaning my IACV, it will be on your itake manifold, close to the throttle body.

Syndacate

sounds like ur sucking air through the IACV or throttle body gaskets, change them, they're cheap and easy, and usually neccessary, then see where you're at..

mikeunreal2

yai checked for leaks and found none.....im gona try adjusting my tps and iacv....

mikeunreal2

why would they have a rolling idle, what does this help with?

MotorMouth

Look man... The answer is adjust the large flat head screw on the the throttle body until the idle is where you like it.

All engines are different, everyday you see threads about people driving turbo cars on basemaps and wondering why they run like ****.

You have done the same thing by switching to a different ecu. Your ecu learns what your sensors are doing. This is why after adjusting any sensor you disconnect the batteries negative terminal and then reconnect it and allow the car to idle for 5 minutes to learn the sensors again.

This is not some random idea, this is what honda mechanics do(at least the good ones). If you can't do it, bite the bullet and take it to the dealership please.

Oh and your car should idle comfortably at 900. If the car is bumping to 800 or fewer rpms at a stop the reason is that there isn't enough air bypassing the closed throttle plate and getting into the engine. The engine surges back up as a defense mechanism to stalling because the idle air control valve(IACV) is not seeing positive pressure(there is not enough air bypassing the throttle plate). By adjusting the screw you are letting more air around the plate to aid in combustion and keeping the idle up. Its not a bad thing to do, its the reason the screw is there.

mikeunreal2

word, ill try it. i had to adjust the tps earlier. would adjusting the tps help in this situation?

mikeunreal2

not to sound like a noobie, but which one is the negative one on the battery??

Soccerking3000

the one with the "-" next to it or the non-red one...

mikeunreal2

update, adjusting the idle screw doesnt bring up my idle past 900. Why is this??? I know we adjusted my tps when my car was surging and when i got a new ecu is stopped teh surging. Could the tps be adjusted incorrectly?

Mike

mikeunreal2

bump, more help plz? im about to have to take it to a dealership bc i have no idea how to fix this!!!