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Weightloss and Hood latch relocation

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Old 04-24-2013, 07:36 AM
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Default Weightloss and Hood latch relocation

I noticed a lot of us have relocated our hood latches for security reasons...
Well, unfortunately my EG8 was garage kept drag car, but then became a DD for the longest time...
Hood pins in my neighborhood of 60% tuners, 40% oldies, was just not cutting it. Every time I came out of my house to get in the car my hoodpin lines were in a different direction.
I went the route of buying Locking hoodpins, and they didnt sit flush and I had no garage at my apartment to fabricate.
Finally I spent the 100$ or so on a new hood locking mechanism, and cord/latch for the interior.

Searching HT all over I couldn't find where it pushed through the firewall and considering the turbo build I did to the car , I couldn't see past the cluster of wires from the gaugepod/fan/boostgauges/new tach wires.. ETC.

I gave in after trying 100 different ways and coming TOO short (4 inches - 2 inches) in length in the factory OEM hood latch cord.

Finally I came up with this:


Inside my engine bay was still the bezel/rubber grommit for the AC lines... I deleted the AC a long time ago for my turbo when I converted to a DD on the car.

I wondered if I could run a line straight through the existing aluminum bezel and what not, to make a really clean look. So I stuck my head under the passengers dash and ... well Ta-duh was the fan motor. Looked something like this:


That's after you remove the glovebox (2 bolts to each side for the cross bar which will fall out after the bolts are removed... completely natural... and 1 addition bolt for each spring piston)

Well of course that wasnt going to work, and I had no idea that box was even there, and I've been in and out of hondas for years... Crazy when you never think of the interior when you work strictly exterior motor.

Decision time.... Keep or remove. Well, honestly, there's no way to find out how big a project is without doing some research...

Unfortunately my hands were covered in black grease and car poop, so I dove right into removing that Heater motor...... 3 bolts- easy as pie.

I would of taken a way better picture... but I dropped the **** out of it when I thought there was still something alive in it.

**Side note, the fan motor..... Is finned... There's no way something could of got into that because in the next picture you'll see why I find it impossible. there's no open holes!

After that was out, I got, possibly 6 of the 8 clips out of the condenser box, removed the harness completely (all plugs and clips) and put it to the top out of the way. I unfastened what I thought were all the bolts, come to find out I missed 1 that connects the box to the dash, way at the top of the box

Then.... I pulled extremely hard (noticing I missed a bolt) thinking that It was just stiffly connected...



This is what I saw when it didn't budge but the bottom opened up.
No wonder it barely blew, and barely had any heat when I needed it, and sounded like it was working so hard.

Finally the condenser box came out, and quite easily after everything was removed and the bezel pulled out with the comb, so now all i had was a big open space (which mechanics love when it comes to turbos and light weight)
a 5-10# box easily with the metal coils, thermo etc in it
2# motor
1# debris.

Of course, my minds saying, take the rest out from the center consol, but I'll leave that for another day when I'm bored, or decide to finally fiberglass a bezel to delete my radio and put all my pods in, instead of my pillar box.

I was left with this:
(the hood line I already ran through with my new bezel.)


Looks extremely clean to me.

So I had to make bezels to close off the firewall, knowing what can happen from the smallest hole thats unplugged:


I ran the line under the battery box, around the tower, through the light housing to the latch assembly, Very, Very nice fit and a lot of slack to mount the lever into the glove box. a little bit of cutting was involved in the glove box, the bezel was just thin aluminum and the grommet was reused from the AC assembly.

Didnt forget the run off tube for condensation either - this runs down by your passengerside tire over the subframe.


all in all I have lost a few pounds of weight, and security for my hood latch... well yes, I'm as happy as can be, now I know for a fact it's not cuttable.

Let me know what you think, I still have yet to finish the center console, I figure I'd make an actual write up to give people the option of doing this themselves when relocating the hoodlatch - since most delete heat and AC... especially if you live in the south.

and if anyone has a thought on pulling the fuses for the motor - or can I leave them in the fuse box... - and a link to anyone who has deleted the AC/Heater control, and radio from their EG8 would also be nice - since I want to make a fiberglass bezel.

Thanks for looking - if you come up with better pics or a write up be my guest! This ones extremely sloppy.
Old 04-24-2013, 08:06 AM
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Default Re: Weightloss and Hood latch relocation

ok, so basically you have re located your hood cable
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