Want to upgrade stock brakes...
05-30-2004, 08:34 PM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: INEED HELP PLACEEEEEEESSSSS!!!??? (95 civic GOOSMAN)
first off CAPS LOCK needs to go.
2nd theres a thing on the top right hand corner called SEARCH, next to GARAGE. Try that some time.
*Waiting for JL to do his famous search post thats been so popular today
*
2nd theres a thing on the top right hand corner called SEARCH, next to GARAGE. Try that some time.
*Waiting for JL to do his famous search post thats been so popular today
*
05-30-2004, 09:38 PM
#4
Senior Member
Re: INEED HELP PLACEEEEEEESSSSS!!!??? (Erod)
Tools needed:
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
17 mm socket
24 mm socket
Torx 50
10 mm open end wrench
Flathead screwdriver
Philips head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
1. Put car in gear and put blocks behind wheels. Jack up rear of car and support on jack-stands. Then remove rear wheels.
2. Take philips head screw driver, pop cover off below e-brake handle and remove those two screws. Pull the console out of vehicle so you can now see e-brake cables. Make sure the e-brake is down and pull one cable at a time to the side and slip around and then pup up the **** looking thing that holds it in place. Unbolt the 2 12mm bolts that hold the e-brake cables in place and remove bracket.
3. Now with the top part of e-brake cables disconnected, take the ratchet with the 12 mm socket and start unbolting the rest of the e-brake cables. There are 2 bolts per cable on the body behind the fuel tank and 1 each on the trailing arms. Go ahead and pull the e-brake cables from the underbody so they are lying on the floor while still connected to the drums.
4. Now take your 10 mm open end wrench and undo the brake line that attaches to the body of the vehicle (inner fenderwell). Once the fitting is unscrewed, there is a tab that holds the brake line to the L-bracket. Use a ccrew driver to pry it out. The line should pull right out the bottom of the bracket.
5. Now take your 14 mm and take out the bolt that bolts the very end of the trailing arm (closest part towards door, not brake) to the body.
6. Take 17 mm and remove those 2 bolts that hold the trailing arm to the underside of body (with the bushing).
7. Support the trailing arm with your knee's while sitting indian style and remove the 14 mm bolt that connects to LCA and upper part of trailing arm. (there is no reason to remove sway bar or suspension. I did this all with sway bar, coilover, and JDM lca's still in place)
8. Trailing arm should come right off with drums and e-brake cables.
9. Now use flat head screw driver to seperate all the clips on the e-brake cable and remove them. You will need to remove the e-brake cables with the drums as one, hence the clips will not fit through the hole.
10. Flip whole assembly so drum is face down on the ground. You will notice the 24 mm nut in the middle and 4 holes around it. Down in those 4 holes are the Torx bolts. Take your Torx 50 and remove these. Be very careful not to strip, because you will be fucked if so. Once these 4 are removed, use the 24 mm and remove the center nut.
11. Now before moving anything, use 10 mm open end and remove brake line from back of drum and discard.
12. Now lift trailing arm off of drum and pull e-brake cable through hole.
13. You should be left with just the trailing arm so push the drum and e-brake cable aside because you will no longer need them.
14. Do the same removal precedure to the Rear disc brakes as you did with the drums. I removed the ABS sensor since I wouldn't be using it by unbolting the 4 10 mm bolts. Just take off cover and unbolt sensor and pull out.
15. As for install, it is the exact opposite of the removal. Just line up trailing arm correctly to back of disc assembly, put in Torx screws, 24 mm nut, run e-brake cable through hole, put clips on, and install.
Make sure to bleed the lines completely so there are no air bubbles, and the Teg m/c and prop valve is highly recommended. Oh and just so you all know all my stuff came off a 95 GSR and was put on a 92 CX hatch.
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
17 mm socket
24 mm socket
Torx 50
10 mm open end wrench
Flathead screwdriver
Philips head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
1. Put car in gear and put blocks behind wheels. Jack up rear of car and support on jack-stands. Then remove rear wheels.
2. Take philips head screw driver, pop cover off below e-brake handle and remove those two screws. Pull the console out of vehicle so you can now see e-brake cables. Make sure the e-brake is down and pull one cable at a time to the side and slip around and then pup up the **** looking thing that holds it in place. Unbolt the 2 12mm bolts that hold the e-brake cables in place and remove bracket.
3. Now with the top part of e-brake cables disconnected, take the ratchet with the 12 mm socket and start unbolting the rest of the e-brake cables. There are 2 bolts per cable on the body behind the fuel tank and 1 each on the trailing arms. Go ahead and pull the e-brake cables from the underbody so they are lying on the floor while still connected to the drums.
4. Now take your 10 mm open end wrench and undo the brake line that attaches to the body of the vehicle (inner fenderwell). Once the fitting is unscrewed, there is a tab that holds the brake line to the L-bracket. Use a ccrew driver to pry it out. The line should pull right out the bottom of the bracket.
5. Now take your 14 mm and take out the bolt that bolts the very end of the trailing arm (closest part towards door, not brake) to the body.
6. Take 17 mm and remove those 2 bolts that hold the trailing arm to the underside of body (with the bushing).
7. Support the trailing arm with your knee's while sitting indian style and remove the 14 mm bolt that connects to LCA and upper part of trailing arm. (there is no reason to remove sway bar or suspension. I did this all with sway bar, coilover, and JDM lca's still in place)
8. Trailing arm should come right off with drums and e-brake cables.
9. Now use flat head screw driver to seperate all the clips on the e-brake cable and remove them. You will need to remove the e-brake cables with the drums as one, hence the clips will not fit through the hole.
10. Flip whole assembly so drum is face down on the ground. You will notice the 24 mm nut in the middle and 4 holes around it. Down in those 4 holes are the Torx bolts. Take your Torx 50 and remove these. Be very careful not to strip, because you will be fucked if so. Once these 4 are removed, use the 24 mm and remove the center nut.
11. Now before moving anything, use 10 mm open end and remove brake line from back of drum and discard.
12. Now lift trailing arm off of drum and pull e-brake cable through hole.
13. You should be left with just the trailing arm so push the drum and e-brake cable aside because you will no longer need them.
14. Do the same removal precedure to the Rear disc brakes as you did with the drums. I removed the ABS sensor since I wouldn't be using it by unbolting the 4 10 mm bolts. Just take off cover and unbolt sensor and pull out.
15. As for install, it is the exact opposite of the removal. Just line up trailing arm correctly to back of disc assembly, put in Torx screws, 24 mm nut, run e-brake cable through hole, put clips on, and install.
Make sure to bleed the lines completely so there are no air bubbles, and the Teg m/c and prop valve is highly recommended. Oh and just so you all know all my stuff came off a 95 GSR and was put on a 92 CX hatch.
05-31-2004, 10:00 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: port chester, ny, USA
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Re: INEED HELP PLACEEEEEEESSSSS!!!??? (95 civic GOOSMAN)
sorry about the caps and is only fos ask some body has the parts?????
know were to buy (online o junkyard????)
know were to buy (online o junkyard????)
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05-31-2004, 07:55 PM
#8
Mr. Badwrench
Join Date: May 2002
Location: stranger in a strange land
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Re: INEED HELP PLACEEEEEEESSSSS!!!??? (95 civic GOOSMAN)
larry at importautosalvage.com has pretty good prices on teg ls rear discs. call him and see what he has.
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