want rotors instead of drums
06-18-2009, 01:22 AM
#2
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
...use the search bar... I have been using this forum for over a year for my car and just recently had to join to ask one question. look up rear disc brake conversion and you will get all the info you could need.
06-18-2009, 05:15 AM
#3
318 Curves, 11 miles
Re: want rotors instead of drums
^^^^THIS GUY IS RIGHT^^^^
However, I'm 95% certain the old teg stuff will work, but I think I've found a better solution that will cost you about the same in the end.
I'm still working out exactly what parts to use, because I'm getting ready to do this on mine, so if I get something wrong, don't shoot me. Scarebird sells a disk brake bracket that lets you bolt calipers onto your drum spindles. It's like $85.
You remove all the drum guts from your spindles, then bolt the bracket on the back. From there, you can run EP3 calipers and rotors, which I believe are the best OEM rear disc setup you can get. Or, alternatively, you can run 5th gen prelude calipers, which I think are the same part number only swapped upside down and backwards.
...well... it depends on your perspective anyway... on a prelude they're swapped left to right and upside down from where they are on a civic, but they're the same part number. I was shocked when I found a set at my local pick-n-pull and they were the same part number only backwards. They charged me $20 for them.
So, you pay $85 for the scarebird bracket, find some junkyard calipers for $20, buy new discs and pads for like $50, and you're at about $155, which is cheaper than you can find a disc swap for these days.
However, I'm 95% certain the old teg stuff will work, but I think I've found a better solution that will cost you about the same in the end.
I'm still working out exactly what parts to use, because I'm getting ready to do this on mine, so if I get something wrong, don't shoot me. Scarebird sells a disk brake bracket that lets you bolt calipers onto your drum spindles. It's like $85.
You remove all the drum guts from your spindles, then bolt the bracket on the back. From there, you can run EP3 calipers and rotors, which I believe are the best OEM rear disc setup you can get. Or, alternatively, you can run 5th gen prelude calipers, which I think are the same part number only swapped upside down and backwards.
...well... it depends on your perspective anyway... on a prelude they're swapped left to right and upside down from where they are on a civic, but they're the same part number. I was shocked when I found a set at my local pick-n-pull and they were the same part number only backwards. They charged me $20 for them.
So, you pay $85 for the scarebird bracket, find some junkyard calipers for $20, buy new discs and pads for like $50, and you're at about $155, which is cheaper than you can find a disc swap for these days.
06-18-2009, 11:13 AM
#4
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
Well the reason i ask is because i have the integra. Its my old car, im just not driving it anymore because i got hit head on and its giving me too many problems. So i got this little hatchback, im going to switch some parts over....thanks for all the info though
06-18-2009, 11:54 AM
#6
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
get the pop valve and use the brake boost and MC from that DA you have. it helps a crap load more. i did that. and my rear disc setup cost 100...(i dont live near the coast of expensiveness)
06-18-2009, 12:00 PM
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06-18-2009, 12:26 PM
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
Yes, even auto-x. I doubt you will scrub any time by going with discs in the rear. IIRC, there are a few Honda Challenge Civic's still running drums. Drums are lighter anyway.
06-18-2009, 12:30 PM
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06-18-2009, 12:31 PM
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/why-blank-rotors-better-than-cross-drilled-slotted-1437513/
06-18-2009, 12:31 PM
#12
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06-18-2009, 12:44 PM
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06-18-2009, 09:59 PM
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
06-18-2009, 11:20 PM
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
06-19-2009, 01:06 AM
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
However, I'm 95% certain the old teg stuff will work, but I think I've found a better solution that will cost you about the same in the end.
I'm still working out exactly what parts to use, because I'm getting ready to do this on mine, so if I get something wrong, don't shoot me. Scarebird sells a disk brake bracket that lets you bolt calipers onto your drum spindles. It's like $85.
You remove all the drum guts from your spindles, then bolt the bracket on the back. From there, you can run EP3 calipers and rotors, which I believe are the best OEM rear disc setup you can get. Or, alternatively, you can run 5th gen prelude calipers, which I think are the same part number only swapped upside down and backwards.
...well... it depends on your perspective anyway... on a prelude they're swapped left to right and upside down from where they are on a civic, but they're the same part number. I was shocked when I found a set at my local pick-n-pull and they were the same part number only backwards. They charged me $20 for them.
So, you pay $85 for the scarebird bracket, find some junkyard calipers for $20, buy new discs and pads for like $50, and you're at about $155, which is cheaper than you can find a disc swap for these days.
I'm still working out exactly what parts to use, because I'm getting ready to do this on mine, so if I get something wrong, don't shoot me. Scarebird sells a disk brake bracket that lets you bolt calipers onto your drum spindles. It's like $85.
You remove all the drum guts from your spindles, then bolt the bracket on the back. From there, you can run EP3 calipers and rotors, which I believe are the best OEM rear disc setup you can get. Or, alternatively, you can run 5th gen prelude calipers, which I think are the same part number only swapped upside down and backwards.
...well... it depends on your perspective anyway... on a prelude they're swapped left to right and upside down from where they are on a civic, but they're the same part number. I was shocked when I found a set at my local pick-n-pull and they were the same part number only backwards. They charged me $20 for them.
So, you pay $85 for the scarebird bracket, find some junkyard calipers for $20, buy new discs and pads for like $50, and you're at about $155, which is cheaper than you can find a disc swap for these days.
06-19-2009, 01:47 AM
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06-19-2009, 03:15 AM
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
Get either slotted or solid. Drilled does brake better but doesn't last as long as the other two. When it comes down to lifetime over breaking the slotted or solid lasts longer and offer enough braking power. The drilled only offers slightly better breaking (since Honda's don't produce enough power to take full effect of them) so you might as well go with the ones that will last long and brake just fine.
Slotted or solid, its up to you.
P.S. Drilled does cool better, someone said that when you brake the holes are covered by the breaks.... what are you locking up when you break? Because if you a breaking correctly the car slows efficiently without locking the breaks, meaning as the rotors turn the holes then cool the rotors. When rotors get to hot they can glaze and warp, that's why slotted and drilled rotors were invented.
Slotted or solid, its up to you.
P.S. Drilled does cool better, someone said that when you brake the holes are covered by the breaks.... what are you locking up when you break? Because if you a breaking correctly the car slows efficiently without locking the breaks, meaning as the rotors turn the holes then cool the rotors. When rotors get to hot they can glaze and warp, that's why slotted and drilled rotors were invented.
06-19-2009, 08:00 AM
#24
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
You're doing it wrong.
Reading comprehension.
Where do you guys pick up this junk ricer logic from? Pepboys? 
EDIT: Starting to suspect a troll. "Honda's don't produce enough power to take full effect of them."
Reading comprehension.
Get either slotted or solid. Drilled does brake better but doesn't last as long as the other two. When it comes down to lifetime over breaking the slotted or solid lasts longer and offer enough braking power. The drilled only offers slightly better breaking (since Honda's don't produce enough power to take full effect of them) so you might as well go with the ones that will last long and brake just fine.
Slotted or solid, its up to you.
P.S. Drilled does cool better, someone said that when you brake the holes are covered by the breaks.... what are you locking up when you break? Because if you a breaking correctly the car slows efficiently without locking the breaks, meaning as the rotors turn the holes then cool the rotors. When rotors get to hot they can glaze and warp, that's why slotted and drilled rotors were invented.
Slotted or solid, its up to you.
P.S. Drilled does cool better, someone said that when you brake the holes are covered by the breaks.... what are you locking up when you break? Because if you a breaking correctly the car slows efficiently without locking the breaks, meaning as the rotors turn the holes then cool the rotors. When rotors get to hot they can glaze and warp, that's why slotted and drilled rotors were invented.
EDIT: Starting to suspect a troll. "Honda's don't produce enough power to take full effect of them."
06-19-2009, 08:29 AM
#25
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Re: want rotors instead of drums
Here I'll edit it for you "Stock Honda's don't produce enough power to take full effect of them".
Happy?
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