slogfilet

iTrader: (1)

So for a few mornings my VX (stock D15Z1 engine) has sputtered quite a bit for 5-10 seconds on startup in the morning. After that, it idles great and drives fine.

Today, I parked my car after driving for 20 minutes, and it wouldn't start again. It cranks, and tried to "catch" a few times, but mostly just cranks.

I don't know if these two issues are related, but some searching suggested the FITV (which my car doesn't have) or IACV. I also recently adjusted the idle screw down quite a bit to normal range. Two months ago, I replaced the head gasket, plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

No check engine lights, car is sitting in a parking lot until I tow it or have an epiphany. Any ideas?

gabriel0830

that iacv could be clogged up try cleaning it up see if it helps

slogfilet

iTrader: (1)

I'll start there... at least it's free!

cbaber

Your head gasket replacement worries me. Why did you change the head gasket?

I had a very similar problem on my car. For 2-10 seconds when starting the car it would stumble and sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders. Then it would run fine the rest of the drive. Turns out my head gasket failed and was allowing coolant through into the cylinders as the vehicle was shut off. When I went to start it in the morning or after a few hours the coolant in the combustion chamber didn't allow that cylinder to fire until it burnt off all the coolant. And this all happened on a brand new, re manufactured engine with only 10,000 miles. I had to simply change the head gasket and haven't had the problem again in over 40,000 miles.

I suspect your new head gasket has failed, or the head bolts were not properly torqued in sequence, or you have a warped head or block. Now what is unique is that you say the car won't start at all now. Before we get to the head gasket, check for spark at the spark plugs. Check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. And finally, rent a compression tester from AutoZone and check the compression on all 4 cylinders.

slogfilet

iTrader: (1)

I cranked a few more times after it was completely cool... it fired every now and then, and I was eventually able to get it started. I had my wife watch, and there was white smoke from the exhaust when it finally started. When I got home, I took the radiator cap off and it was bubbling when revved. It appears to be the head gasket.

I changed the head gasket due to losing coolant, white smoke, etc. The head was true when I replaced it, but it was my first head gasket job, so there may be an underlying head/block issue or a bad head gasket job.

My hard starting theory... coolant leaking into the cylinders overnight, burning off in the first 5-10 seconds, causing a very rough idle. Plausible?

So now I'm off to look at what potential causes of head gasket failure might be... I'm sure it's been brought up here before.

EDIT: Oh hey, I realized I just theorized *exactly* what you had already stated.

cbaber

What did you use to verify the straightness of the head and block? Anything short of a machinist level won't give you an accurate idea of how level it really is.

slogfilet

iTrader: (1)

To bring some closure to the thread (in case future folks are searching), I replaced the head gasket again, but this time took the head to a machine shop. He said it was ever-so-slightly warped, and milled it for me. After 1k+ miles, there have been no further issues. So for anyone else out there... it's worth it to get the head done. A shop will likely check it for free, and it's $40 to get it flattened out (in my area, anyway). I also had it pressure tested for peace of mind.

I also took the opportunity to get new head bolts (arguably not required for a stock D15Z1 driven like a grandma), flush the cooling system thoroughly, and replace all hoses. Most of them were original, and after 20 years (and overheating a time or two), they were on their last legs.