DJP

Hey people,

I had recently found out that the part responsible for the vtec to kick in is the solenoid. Apparently, if that thing is dirty, or damaged in anyway, it can prevent the vtec from kicking in at all. Currently, I own a 92 civic si hatch and was wondering if anyone new where i would be able to find that in my engine? This way i can perform any type of maintenance that in needs to keep that thing fully operational.

Thanks.

forcefedferio

good start keeping up the proper maintenance of your car

on your motor which im assuming is the d16z6 the VTEC solenoid will be on the back left side of the head (from standing in front of the car) and will look like this

DJP

The next thing now, when and if i manage to find this thing successfully, would it be good enought to give it a good clean, or would it be better to replace it; considering whethere or not it's an inexpensive item?

As for the location though, i'm assuming that would be behind the distributor cap, but would it also be behind or in front of the intake manifold?

To be honest though, i wouldn't be surpised if i had to replace the thing. I got the car at 185k, and i'm at 263k now. The previous owner who had this thing new he was gonna sell it, and did nothin but PATCH work until he got it off his hands. I HATE dealing with **** like this. Since the start of summer, i had to change the rad, thermostat, water pump, timiing belt, oil pan, AND hand break cables.

Hopefully i can change this part too and get this car running like it's brand new again


Modified by DJP at 7:09 PM 7/8/2007

VtecSyndrome

Why are you thinking about replacing the solenoid???? is your vtec not working I assume? your check engine light would be on if there were a problem in the system. you know if your oil level is to low your Vtec won't be as strong due to lack of pressure, sometimes it even feels like it does not work at all. I Have yet to see one go out, usually all you have to do is replace the gasket if it's leaking, oter than that there should be no worries

DJP

The only reason i was considering replacing it was because of all the surprises i kept finding about the car. As for it kicking in, i still don't know what the factory rpm range it's supposed to kick in. Currently i hear it kick in at about 5000 5500 rpm. Another reason i thought it might be stuck was after i drove a friend integra gs-r. His kicked in at like 4500, but then it went all out at about 5500 - 6000 rpm, and i wasn't sure if it's somethin that might be wrong with my engine as well.

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only reason i was considering replacing it was because of all the surprises i kept finding about the car. As for it kicking in, i still don't know what the factory rpm range it's supposed to kick in. Currently i hear it kick in at about 5000 5500 rpm. Another reason i thought it might be stuck was after i drove a friend integra gs-r. His kicked in at like 4500, but then it went all out at about 5500 - 6000 rpm, and i wasn't sure if it's somethin that might be wrong with my engine as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A gsr will kick in differently, the vtec solenoids rarely needs replacing.

DJP

Would cleanning out the filter cause it to kick in earlier, or even work more efficiently for that matter?

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would cleanning out the filter cause it to kick in earlier, or even work more efficiently for that matter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unless the car sat for awhile, I don't for see cleaning it, really helping. Its worth a shot though, but no it won't kick in any earlier, the ecu decides when it kicks in.

bitek

do i need to reset the ecu after replacing a new solenoid?

speedooo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would cleanning out the filter cause it to kick in earlier, or even work more efficiently for that matter?</TD></TR></TABLE>


vtec kicks in differently on each motor so that there is a smooth crossover/linear power curve. it has nothbing to do with the solenoid

mckrank313

be careful taking the solenoid off, i took mine apart and it started to fall apart on me and it was a pain for me to get back together, also unless the check engine light is on for the solenoid you really don't need to clean it... but you can if you feel the need

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bitek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i need to reset the ecu after replacing a new solenoid?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mckrank313 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">be careful taking the solenoid off, i took mine apart and it started to fall apart on me and it was a pain for me to get back together, also unless the check engine light is on for the solenoid you really don't need to clean it... but you can if you feel the need</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm assuming you mean gasket, yes its always smart to replace the gasket.

DJP

What if i managed to get my hands onto a programer that allowed me to adjust the rpm range when vtec kicks in. If i were to adjust it to lets sayyy...3500-4000 rpm, would that be causing any damage to my engine?

A better question would be, are all the required setting (i.e. oil pressure, etc) enough for it to run smoothly?

speedooo

you gain no advantage by changing the engagement rpm and create more chances of damage

wink11290

how do you know when the v-tech kicks in. is there a different sound or what???

Boostedb20EH2

Dont base your engine off a gsr. They have primary and secondary vtec.

DJP

you'll know when it kicks in based on a slight sound change if you running on an SOHC, and you should also notice a pick up in the rpm once it does kick in as well.

DJP

I'm assuming by your name that we have the same car, and i had another question. What would be the most affordable thing i can do to an everyday driver, that would give me the most amount of performance for my 92 civic si hatch?

97Ej6mike

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedooo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you gain no advantage by changing the engagement rpm and create more chances of damage</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2
It was set and engineered to work its best where its set at by the factory

Boostedb20EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assuming by your name that we have the same car, and i had another question. What would be the most affordable thing i can do to an everyday driver, that would give me the most amount of performance for my 92 civic si hatch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honest truth.. By the time you piece together a nice intake, header, and exhaust set up. You have just spent a grand, if not close to it. And with a grand you could easily piece yourself together a nice turbo set up.
And here is the difference..
I/H/E = 10 un noticeable horspower
Turbo = Twice as much whp your engine makes now if not more.

My buddy made 229whp on a d16z6 with stock internals and it pulls hard. Not as hard as mine, but for a sohc.. that thing rips.

DJP

A turbo does sound nice, but the thing is i still need my ride for school, and driving between brampton,ON and Waterloo,ON isn't a short trip. From what i've read and heard, turbo isn't the smartest thing for someone who is planning on keepin the car for a while..let alone an everday driver.

What i was planning on doing was putting in a new lighter flywheel to increase acceleration. I figured that i would start off there, where i would see a noticable difference

btw how much psi are you running on?


Modified by DJP at 4:47 AM 7/10/2007

Boostedb20EH2

Lol my car makes 355whp and i drive it everyday. Its been going strong for years.
I've driven long distances also. No problems.

1992Si

FYI here's a link to OEM parts at good prices.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

You can feel Vtec kick in by taking off in first gear at about 3/4 throttle. Leave your foot there. At 4800rpm you will feel Vtec ingage. That's where D16Z6's are set at.

I have also owned mine since I bought it Aug 28 1992.

At 260,000 + miles I would be careful about doing anything to boost performance. Just drive it and save your money. Read here and http://www.turbod16.com and D-series.org

Then when you have the money and time and know how then get a spare engine and boost it.

97Ej6mike

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A turbo does sound nice, but the thing is i still need my ride for school, and driving between brampton,ON and Waterloo,ON isn't a short trip. From what i've read and heard, turbo isn't the smartest thing for someone who is planning on keepin the car for a while..let alone an everday driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really depends on what turbo kit and type of build you do. A well built and maintained boosted motor will last as long, if not longer than a stock motor.

A flywheel does make a noticable (and fun) difference, i just recently installed one on my own civic, and it makes a difference right from the start. Where my car used to seem to bog off a line, it now jumps forward, and engages gears much smoother and quicker. Its a worthy upgrade IMO.

DJP

My question is, where did you manage to get that info about a well maintained turbo? To me, simply forcing air into an engine that hasen't been designed like that doesn't seem like it can actually cause it to last longer.

I'm not tryin to flame or anythin like that, i just want to know this way i have some source that i can go and read for myself.

And as for the flywheel, did you keep the OEM cluth installed, or did you end up changing that too? This way i can know whether or not i can get away with keeping the OEM clutch that i have already that's working perfectly fine, and still be able to get as much of a noticable difference as possible.