RCautoworks

Here it goes, I have a 94 eg and its throwing a code 17 which is vss, and the speedometer does not work. I checked the wiring and diagrams and with the results I got, it said replace ecu, but thats very unlikely the cause so I just pretty much ignored that. I was getting voltage when spinning the wheels, but noticed resistance was very high on one of the wires, therefore I hardwired it.

So anyways I swapped in an extra vss I had, and still code 17 and no speedometer. So I decided to hard wire it, I know the black is a groud, yellow and white is b10, then the other yellow is constant 5v correct ? Does anyone know where exactly that goes ?

Anyways I hardwired the vss, and now vtec does work, but the cluster still does not work, and I'm throwing a code 17, and this is where I'm a little stuck. Any advice ?

forcefedferio

replace the speedo in your cluster, that's what fixed mine i couldnt figure out why no other VSS's worked (tried several) and it didnt work before or after my swap so i knew it wasnt the ECU.

slowcivic2k

Check the VSS connector for proper connectivity, the pins will rust out, due to coolant and other contaminants seeping through the weather packing and ruining the terminals, this is very common, I still to this day have never seen a VSS go bad...

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by forcefedferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replace the speedo in your cluster, that's what fixed mine i couldnt figure out why no other VSS's worked (tried several) and it didnt work before or after my swap so i knew it wasnt the ECU.
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If the cluster is broke, I don't think code 17 will appear.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the VSS connector for proper connectivity, the pins will rust out, due to coolant and other contaminants seeping through the weather packing and ruining the terminals, this is very common, I still to this day have never seen a VSS go bad...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Already did that, still have the same issue.

slowcivic2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If the cluster is broke, I don't think code 17 will appear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your right, the PCM will only throw that code when the PCM no longer receives that signal, the cruise control module and the speedo will get this from a splice behind the dash.

RCautoworks

Cruise control is removed as well, also does anyone know where the cluster gets the signal from ? I know its the yellow/blue splits up and goes to the ecu, and cluster, but where does it split up from ? Is it inside the engine harness itself , or near the ecu ?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the cruise control module and the speedo will get this from a splice behind the dash.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know where ? If not, do you know what pin it is, on the cluster itself ?

slowcivic2k

If you have a voltmeter that has a very fast refresh rate, or a graphable meter, jack one side of the car up, and rotate the wheel with the key in the ON (II) position, it should fluctuate between 12V and 0V when you take the leads and place them on the ECU terminals (still connected to the PCM, use a T pin and backprobe the wire, a small finishing nail works well here.) A26 (- lead here) and B10 (+ lead here). If this test fails, perform the same test on the VSS directly by probing the two signal wires (the BLK/YEL is a supply wire, do not probe that) and see if it fluctuates 12V and 0V as you rotate the wheel, if it does, there is a break or poor connection between the VSS and the PCM. If it doesn't, bad speedo head.

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a voltmeter that has a very fast refresh rate, or a graphable meter, jack one side of the car up, and rotate the wheel with the key in the ON (II) position, it should fluctuate between 12V and 0V when you take the leads and place them on the ECU terminals (still connected to the PCM, use a T pin and backprobe the wire, a small finishing nail works well here.) A26 (- lead here) and B10 (+ lead here). If this test fails, perform the same test on the VSS directly by probing the two signal wires (the BLK/YEL is a supply wire, do not probe that) and see if it fluctuates 12V and 0V as you rotate the wheel, if it does, there is a break or poor connection between the VSS and the PCM. If it doesn't, bad speedo head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did, and got 4 volts, thats why I was confused because according to the helms, the ecu is bad but I doubt that. I did it at the ecu, which would mean the wiring was also ok.

slowcivic2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cruise control is removed as well, also does anyone know where the cluster gets the signal from ? I know its the yellow/blue splits up and goes to the ecu, and cluster, but where does it split up from ? Is it inside the engine harness itself , or near the ecu ?

Do you know where ? If not, do you know what pin it is, on the cluster itself ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Terminal B2 on the back of the cluster, YEL/BLU in color.

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Terminal B2 on the back of the cluster, YEL/BLU in color.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it the plug on the left or right side, looking from the cluster from the back ? Going out to hard wire that.

slowcivic2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did, and got 4 volts, thats why I was confused because according to the helms, the ecu is bad but I doubt that. I did it at the ecu, which would mean the wiring was also ok.
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Don'y worry, the PCM is always the last culprit, but it should never fail, so that is my constant whenever I perform diagnostics, to blame everything else but the PCM.

Spin the wheel slowly and see if it peaks at 12V and the goes down the 0V, if you turn it too fast, you will get somewhere around 6V, because the meter will take an average reading.

For example, if you were to plug a meter into a wall outlet on Volts DC, it would yield 0V because it alternates 120V/-120V @ 60Hz or so. One of the reasons a graphing meter is such a valuable tool.

slowcivic2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it the plug on the left or right side, looking from the cluster from the back ? Going out to hard wire that. </TD></TR></TABLE>


It is the connector right behind the Tach (if you have one, or the coolant temp gauge of you don't) it has 12 pins total, 6 in a group separated by a small break, it is the second wire from the bottom I believe. YEL/BLU is the color so that you know you have the right wire.

RCautoworks

Well, I hardwired b2 off the cluster, basically spliced into that because I'm not sure what that wire also feeds, just did not want to cut it off. And the cluster works, codes are gone. I was receiving a code 41 which was also the fuel supply, after a 15 minute drive, nothing now.

Also to add, the car was recovered after theft, all ecu wires were cut, all dash wiring was redone, therefore I did not think it was wiring.

slowcivic2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I hardwired b2 off the cluster, basically spliced into that because I'm not sure what that wire also feeds, just did not want to cut it off. And the cluster works, codes are gone. I was receiving a code 41 which was also the fuel supply, after a 15 minute drive, nothing now.

Also to add, the car was recovered after theft, all ecu wires were cut, all dash wiring was redone, therefore I did not think it was wiring. </TD></TR></TABLE>

God thats a mess. I'm glad I could help.