castanagajt

Yesterday afternoon I went out to my car as happy as a clam to connect my "new" VSS connector because my old one was corroded and doesn't pick up signal anymore. So I moved it out of the garage to the drive way.

I disconnected my intake coupling from my throttle body and my fuel return line. The one that goes from fuel rail which are attached by banjo nuts. I attached the connector, placed the the intake and the fuel line and turned on the ignition all the cel lights went on as supposed to but this time the car won't crank over. I got out of the car and saw that I has leaked and sprayed on my fuel return so I took out the ignition and took out the banjo nut and forgot I had the crush washer double stacked and presumed to my business.

I know the fuel system is definitely working.
I know I am getting voltage.

Same thing cel lights went on and still won't crank over. So my assumption was the cold cranking amps couldn't be working.

I pulled the battery and placed on the charger and it read the battery with 12.8v and charged so I placed back on the car and attached the positive and negative cable. This time I am not getting any voltage at all! So I used the charger and it is reading that "FOB" foreign object and won't let me jump start. Rechecked everything and looks good.

All I know the battery 80A fuse is still bridged and good at this point. What do you guys think?

castanagajt

Bump. C'mon ya'll are you telling me none has ever had this problem?

anothersickhatch

nope. cant say that i have. is there still gas in the car or did it spray all over the place?

you gotta think simple.

castanagajt

lots of gas is still in the car's tank. I filled up a 11.00 the day prior trust me I wished it was that simple. I did buy an Actron multimeter and this thing is mad cool for 20bux. I first checked the volts on the battery to see if the Battery voltage coincides with the battery charger volts and matches to a T. The battery is just a year old authentic Honda battery and I topped it off twice just for reassurance twice for the year had it.

I had to change the negative ground from the negative battery terminal to the passenger shock tower chasis because I got tired of wiggling around the negative battery cable from time to time to start the car. I also had to add a negative battery cable that goes from the valve cover to the radiator support because it lacked one.

I then turned the dial to 20K olms with the car battery out and tested the negative cable to the fuse box ZERO. Then the fuse box to the beginning to the starter solenoid ZERO.

Here is the kicker However, I checked the starter solenoid itself and I got the ohlms reading and climbing.

My guess is I should change the positive cables out and reattach it to the fuse box and the popsitive cable going to the starter solenoid. What do you guys think?

castanagajt

Bump^^