VERY LOW IDLE
02-15-2004, 08:22 AM
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VERY LOW IDLE
Hello H-T
Over the last week or so I've been experiencing a very low idle with my EG. I have an automatic OBDI D15 engine. when i'm stopped and my heater is running on ! and my lights are on, when its in drive the RPMs drop to almost ) on my tach.
i have the JDM EG6 SiR gauge cluster and at one time the needle came to rest on the stop pin. i figured it was the charging system becayse one time the lights dimmed a bit and when i put it in neutral and revved it the lights brightened back up. but now the lights don't dim but the RPMs still drop very low. the car has never stalled out but i dont' like how the rpms drop so low (going by the needle on the tach it's sometimes at 250rpm or lower some days
battery was bought this spring, has always been kept fully charged and never been drained dead. so far i figured it was either the alt, distrib or coil. maybe the tach is getting bad signal from distrib? car doesn't stall and runs fine but the tach registers very low RPMs.
sorry for posting a small priority here but i'm obsessively picky about things going even slighty wrong with my EG. any help would be great H-T thanks
Over the last week or so I've been experiencing a very low idle with my EG. I have an automatic OBDI D15 engine. when i'm stopped and my heater is running on ! and my lights are on, when its in drive the RPMs drop to almost ) on my tach.
i have the JDM EG6 SiR gauge cluster and at one time the needle came to rest on the stop pin. i figured it was the charging system becayse one time the lights dimmed a bit and when i put it in neutral and revved it the lights brightened back up. but now the lights don't dim but the RPMs still drop very low. the car has never stalled out but i dont' like how the rpms drop so low (going by the needle on the tach it's sometimes at 250rpm or lower some days
battery was bought this spring, has always been kept fully charged and never been drained dead. so far i figured it was either the alt, distrib or coil. maybe the tach is getting bad signal from distrib? car doesn't stall and runs fine but the tach registers very low RPMs.
sorry for posting a small priority here but i'm obsessively picky about things going even slighty wrong with my EG. any help would be great H-T thanks
02-15-2004, 08:25 AM
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Re: VERY LOW IDLE (519RACING)
bump! i'd like to know too because i have the same problem with my 95 EG si. my idle is around 250. i never had n-e problems, but i don't understand why it's so lowww. isn't it suppose to be 800RPM or something? btw, my car is stock.
02-15-2004, 08:32 AM
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Re: VERY LOW IDLE (ieatrice)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ieatrice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump! i'd like to know too because i have the same problem with my 95 EG si. my idle is around 250. i never had n-e problems, but i don't understand why it's so lowww. isn't it suppose to be 800RPM or something? btw, my car is stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not to find happiness from your misery bro, but i'm glad i'm not only one right now with this problem. i think it's supposed tobe from 500-750 at full operating temp but my tach needle on once occasiion has gone to 0 completely and rested on the stop pin.
my car has DC header, AEM cold air with bypass on the engine. stock ignition, coil, distib, stock honda wires, BOSCH Platinum +2 plugs
not to find happiness from your misery bro, but i'm glad i'm not only one right now with this problem. i think it's supposed tobe from 500-750 at full operating temp but my tach needle on once occasiion has gone to 0 completely and rested on the stop pin.
my car has DC header, AEM cold air with bypass on the engine. stock ignition, coil, distib, stock honda wires, BOSCH Platinum +2 plugs
02-15-2004, 09:55 AM
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Re: (mike93eh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um why dont you all just turn your idle up? lol
theres an adjusting screw on the throttle body.</TD></TR></TABLE>
does that really adjust the idle or is it an illuzion makin' us believe we are idling at a rate we're SUPPOSED TO.
theres an adjusting screw on the throttle body.</TD></TR></TABLE>
does that really adjust the idle or is it an illuzion makin' us believe we are idling at a rate we're SUPPOSED TO.
02-15-2004, 11:01 AM
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Re: VERY LOW IDLE (yellow_jacket)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellow_jacket »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first, make sure all your ignition components are in good condition(spark plugs, wires etc)
Next, clean out your throttle body.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly, I have never had this problem before and the only thing I can think of which I changed in the last few months was I went to the BOSCH Platinum +2 plugs. But would that make the idle run low?
Battery is good because car starts fine every morning evne when i've left it out in the cold. Car drives okay and idles fine with no roughness or hesitation but just idels low most of the time after it's warmed up. i figured it's the alt or something because of the lights dimming one time when it was idling but it doesn't seem to do it now, just idle low
Next, clean out your throttle body.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly, I have never had this problem before and the only thing I can think of which I changed in the last few months was I went to the BOSCH Platinum +2 plugs. But would that make the idle run low?
Battery is good because car starts fine every morning evne when i've left it out in the cold. Car drives okay and idles fine with no roughness or hesitation but just idels low most of the time after it's warmed up. i figured it's the alt or something because of the lights dimming one time when it was idling but it doesn't seem to do it now, just idle low
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02-15-2004, 11:31 AM
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Re: (mike93eh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">definitely get rid of the junk bosch plugs and get some oem ngks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's the first thing I'm going to do. do you think they could be causing the low idle?
that's the first thing I'm going to do. do you think they could be causing the low idle?
02-15-2004, 08:02 PM
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Re: (519RACING)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 519RACING »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that's the first thing I'm going to do. do you think they could be causing the low idle? </TD></TR></TABLE>
it's possible..
that's the first thing I'm going to do. do you think they could be causing the low idle? </TD></TR></TABLE>
it's possible..
02-15-2004, 08:10 PM
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Re: (mike93eh)
many things can cause this. this would be a great time to buy a shop manual.
plugs and wires, loose alternator belt, igniton timing, distributor cap / rotor / coil, dirty iacv, dirty tb, improper throttle cable tension, etc etc etc.
you should get a helms and go through their extensive procedure, it will be fixed for sure. also, try resetting your ecu, due to your intake.
plugs and wires, loose alternator belt, igniton timing, distributor cap / rotor / coil, dirty iacv, dirty tb, improper throttle cable tension, etc etc etc.
you should get a helms and go through their extensive procedure, it will be fixed for sure. also, try resetting your ecu, due to your intake.
02-16-2004, 07:41 AM
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Re: (jwn7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">many things can cause this. this would be a great time to buy a shop manual.
plugs and wires, loose alternator belt, igniton timing, distributor cap / rotor / coil, dirty iacv, dirty tb, improper throttle cable tension, etc etc etc.
you should get a helms and go through their extensive procedure, it will be fixed for sure. also, try resetting your ecu, due to your intake. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, I already bought the big huge Honda service bible a while back from the dealership which are the same ones they use.
did a check:
-plug wires appear fine
-timing bolts are tight on distrib
-rotor appears to be okay
-checked the cap again and about a month or so ago and the pin inside still has rounding to it (i was told by the dealership if the center pin has flattened then it's time to change it)
-had the water pump and timing belt changed in the fall and alt belt is still taut and makes no noise
the iacv and tb i'm going to check this week sometimes or on the weekend when I have time to pull of my AEM and clean the filter for it as well. i found a thread in here about cleaning the iacv and i'm going to give it a shot.
when you said resetting the ecu due to the intake, what were you referring to by "due to the intake"? I know how to reset the ECU (disconnect battery for 10 mins)
thanks for the help guys and sorry to bother ya with this.
plugs and wires, loose alternator belt, igniton timing, distributor cap / rotor / coil, dirty iacv, dirty tb, improper throttle cable tension, etc etc etc.
you should get a helms and go through their extensive procedure, it will be fixed for sure. also, try resetting your ecu, due to your intake.
</TD></TR></TABLE>yes, I already bought the big huge Honda service bible a while back from the dealership which are the same ones they use.
did a check:
-plug wires appear fine
-timing bolts are tight on distrib
-rotor appears to be okay
-checked the cap again and about a month or so ago and the pin inside still has rounding to it (i was told by the dealership if the center pin has flattened then it's time to change it)
-had the water pump and timing belt changed in the fall and alt belt is still taut and makes no noise
the iacv and tb i'm going to check this week sometimes or on the weekend when I have time to pull of my AEM and clean the filter for it as well. i found a thread in here about cleaning the iacv and i'm going to give it a shot.
when you said resetting the ecu due to the intake, what were you referring to by "due to the intake"? I know how to reset the ECU (disconnect battery for 10 mins)
thanks for the help guys and sorry to bother ya with this.
02-16-2004, 09:42 AM
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Re: (519RACING)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 519RACING »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you said resetting the ecu due to the intake, what were you referring to by "due to the intake"? I know how to reset the ECU (disconnect battery for 10 mins)</TD></TR></TABLE>
when you modify the way your engine gets air / fuel, you need to reset the ecu because the ecu learns a/f maps over time. when i installed my intake, i had a low idle just like you - almost stalling - i reset the ecu, and it was fixed. however, it's doing it again now (3 monts later) due to a loose alternator belt and some other things.
i believe this is the proper way to reset the ecu's a/f maps: start car, let idle under no load until radiator fan clicks on. turn off car, remove backup amp fuse under hood. let sit for ~5 minutes. reinsert fuse, start car let idle until fan comes on or 5 minutes. turn car off, ecu learns, start back up and drive away.
why do you have to do that? i forget... i think it has something to do with the ecu storing information, and just disconnecting the battery/fuse doens't wipe everything out. but if you search a lot of knowledgeable people suggest to perform that procedure.
when you modify the way your engine gets air / fuel, you need to reset the ecu because the ecu learns a/f maps over time. when i installed my intake, i had a low idle just like you - almost stalling - i reset the ecu, and it was fixed. however, it's doing it again now (3 monts later) due to a loose alternator belt and some other things.
i believe this is the proper way to reset the ecu's a/f maps: start car, let idle under no load until radiator fan clicks on. turn off car, remove backup amp fuse under hood. let sit for ~5 minutes. reinsert fuse, start car let idle until fan comes on or 5 minutes. turn car off, ecu learns, start back up and drive away.
why do you have to do that? i forget... i think it has something to do with the ecu storing information, and just disconnecting the battery/fuse doens't wipe everything out. but if you search a lot of knowledgeable people suggest to perform that procedure.
02-16-2004, 11:48 AM
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Re: (jwn7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
when you modify the way your engine gets air / fuel, you need to reset the ecu because the ecu learns a/f maps over time. when i installed my intake, i had a low idle just like you - almost stalling - i reset the ecu, and it was fixed. however, it's doing it again now (3 monts later) due to a loose alternator belt and some other things.
i believe this is the proper way to reset the ecu's a/f maps: start car, let idle under no load until radiator fan clicks on. turn off car, remove backup amp fuse under hood. let sit for ~5 minutes. reinsert fuse, start car let idle until fan comes on or 5 minutes. turn car off, ecu learns, start back up and drive away.
why do you have to do that? i forget... i think it has something to do with the ecu storing information, and just disconnecting the battery/fuse doens't wipe everything out. but if you search a lot of knowledgeable people suggest to perform that procedure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the info jwn7
i always thought you just disconnect all power from the car by removing both the neg and pos wires from the batt. guess i'm not as smart as I thought and there ARE some tricks I still have to learn
i'm going to check and/or clean the tb and iacv and make sure it's okay if the ECU reset doesn't cure the problem. money isn't exactly overflowing from my pockets right now but i'd like to go ahead and replace the coil, cap, plugs and wires ASAP because i don't think the coil has even been replaced since i bought it new in '95. i'm going to go to a set of Magnecor wires too since my distributor deals them and then reset the ECU again when it's all done.
i don't want to spend the money on OEM parts when I want to upgrade to an extrnal coil and ignition system but the ducats aren't flowing for that so Honda parts it is for the time being.
thanks again for the help man. much appreciated
when you modify the way your engine gets air / fuel, you need to reset the ecu because the ecu learns a/f maps over time. when i installed my intake, i had a low idle just like you - almost stalling - i reset the ecu, and it was fixed. however, it's doing it again now (3 monts later) due to a loose alternator belt and some other things.
i believe this is the proper way to reset the ecu's a/f maps: start car, let idle under no load until radiator fan clicks on. turn off car, remove backup amp fuse under hood. let sit for ~5 minutes. reinsert fuse, start car let idle until fan comes on or 5 minutes. turn car off, ecu learns, start back up and drive away.
why do you have to do that? i forget... i think it has something to do with the ecu storing information, and just disconnecting the battery/fuse doens't wipe everything out. but if you search a lot of knowledgeable people suggest to perform that procedure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the info jwn7
i always thought you just disconnect all power from the car by removing both the neg and pos wires from the batt. guess i'm not as smart as I thought and there ARE some tricks I still have to learn
i'm going to check and/or clean the tb and iacv and make sure it's okay if the ECU reset doesn't cure the problem. money isn't exactly overflowing from my pockets right now but i'd like to go ahead and replace the coil, cap, plugs and wires ASAP because i don't think the coil has even been replaced since i bought it new in '95. i'm going to go to a set of Magnecor wires too since my distributor deals them and then reset the ECU again when it's all done.
i don't want to spend the money on OEM parts when I want to upgrade to an extrnal coil and ignition system but the ducats aren't flowing for that so Honda parts it is for the time being.
thanks again for the help man. much appreciated
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