PJ

I've been thinking (always dangerous haha) about the vertical TB found on Civic CX/DX/LX D16Y7 (I think?), and isn't that design actually more conducive to "straightening" air flow before entering the IM?

I mean, if you wanted to use a CAI, the extreme bend required directly before the TB probably would outweigh any high-rpm power one might gain, but in the instance of maintaining the stock air box with a high-flow panel filter, wouldn't this set-up allow for a greater "stacking" effect?

I started to think about this after researching the BPI/Blox velocity stack and considering air flow. Could I fit a velocity stack in the stock airbox beneath the panel filter?

Luserkid

Although the design idea is a good one (air going into the center evenly getting distributed) the y7 manifold is one of the worst out there. Also at the same time the size of the hood/engine bay does not make for much space. Now by all means if you want to cut open the hood and make a scoop, build a thicker runner setup and put the velocity stack out the hood into the scoop then yea it will be a great design.

Alot of people stick to the traditional side intake manifolds for the space and they could always add a bigger plenium to it and have air distribute like that.

Swerv

I think theres enough room to put a stack in that box. It's pretty tall. Could be a decent combo with a nice filter in there...

PJ

Thanks for the feedback guys, I appreciate it. The Y7 manifold does look pretty anemic, but at the same time I think swapping on a horizontal manifold isn't nearly worth the money, time or trouble (still a Y7 afterall).

I am considering cheap and effective ways to improve MPG and gain a little power at the same time. As I wrote, CAIs for this car seems pointless with that sharp bend directly before the TB. I am going to open the airbox and measure the opening just before the TB and see if I can find a flow stack in that size and a K&N panel filter with the air tube and resonator removed.

Swerv

my y7 get's good throttle response and mileage with a K&N drop-in and catback only. I left the resonator box in, but taped up the holes on the tube so it doesn't suck hot air from the box when it warms up. it's like a little oven after a while. I also pulled the IAT sensor out of the box, separated from the harnes as best I could and ran it to just before the accordian part of the tube to read colder air. Just drilled a hole as big as the rubber grommet in the bottom of the tube and it looks like it's meant to be there. Plugged the hole in the box with rubber cork- not any pressure to push it out or anything. << Found that trick on google searching "free mods" or something like that- it pulled up a great little site of simple DIY stuff.

Swerv

I know, I'm being a post ***** this morning.

But here's the link to that site:

http://www.ultimateresourcegui....html

PJ

Cool info, thanks for sharing. A quick question, though. Wouldn't relocating the IAT further upstream towards theoretically cooler air actually decrease MPG, as the ECU will allow for more fuel on account of the cooler air?

Also, why did you decide to leave the resonator box? If you blocked the two openings at the base of the intake tube, then the resonator no longer serves a purpose anyhow. I can understand leaving the tube to source cooler air from behind the headlight.

Swerv

Well, he explained it on that site. It may decrease mileage a bit, but that's the cost of performance, which was purpose of this mod. It's supposed to tell the ECM to advance timing a degree or two with the cooler air reading. I'm sure the difference in both power and mileage is negligible, if even measurable.

I left the resonator box for a few reasons. The main one being that it is what holds the end of the inlet tube in place, and the only support that I saw for it. I didn't want to zip tie it. It also retains the stock look, or stealth intake, whatever. If I'm not putting on an actual, decent looking intake, I'd rather it look stock than look like I just went in there and started ripping things out for no reason. Either way, with or without the box, if you plug the holes you get better airflow, cooler air overall, and it acutally gives a bit of the intake sound at WOT since the box is in place as a silencer. Hope that helps...

PJ

Thanks for your reply! That's pretty much what I had figured, and in the case of the mighty D16Y7 (hahaha), I am more trying to improve MPG than actual performance.

Once I order a few stock parts for some minor repairs, I'll try a K&N panel (or new, clean OE filter haha) and a velocity stack in the air box.


Modified by PJ at 11:53 AM 1/28/2008

PJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swerv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I left the resonator box in, but taped up the holes on the tube so it doesn't suck hot air from the box when it warms up. it's like a little oven after a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>

To revisit the MPG question briefly, does the resonator and the oven effect actually increase MPG? I always thought their purpose was simply to keep the car quiet, but after thinking about what you said, it might be more than just a "muffler." Is the purpose to warm the intake air so less fuel is used and MPG increases?