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My 2000 SI is giving me a code 61, primary oxygen sensor. I did some searching and found that the oem o2 sensor is about $200, where as other brands are ~$70 http://www.oxygensensors.com/catalog.php?&pkey=1363025 . Is there a big difference between the two?
Also, can anyone post a pic/location of the o2 sensor? thanks
Check the wires going to and from the sensor first. Sometimes it is just a loose wire that sets off the code.
NGK is most likely the manufacturer of your Civic's OEM sensor. If it is not NGK, then it is Denso. Look at the old one for signs of which (NGK or Denso) it is. Online, you can get an NGK or Denso sensor for much less than what the dealerships (online or not) sell the OEM sensor for. I would buy only NGK or Denso. NGK and Denso cost a little more but I have seen enough reports of other makes not performing as well that I won't roll the dice on anything but NGK or Denso. (OTOH some people think Bosch and Walker are fine.)
If you want to go really cheap yet still have NGK or Denso, get a universal NGK or Denso, meaning you have to do some wire splicing. I spliced a universal onto my 93 Civic last year and it works great; the car just passed emissions with flying colors and gets 42 mpg.
You can borrow an oxygen sensor wrench from Autozone at no charge. Or buy one for around $10 at Autozone, Harbor Freight, Pep Boys, etc. Get one that you can put a torque wrench on. The sensor should free up more easily if the car is a little warm, since the sensor's threads will be stretched the hotter the metal is.
I used to remember who makes the oem sensors. If you do some research you can find it. If you buy from the same company that makes the oem ones you can get them for like half price and it is the same thing as oem. But oem is definitely worth it compared to the generic ones which can be bad.
You can't go wrong with NGK, Denso or Bosch. But as said, stick with name brand.
Go to Advance or Autozone. You can buy a universal one as honda.lioness pointed out for 68$. Or buy one already pre-plugged for 115$.
Hello, new here. I am getting the P0135 error CEL code in my honda accord 2000 se. It idles rough. I've read that I need to replace it. I have a few questions:
1) Will it cause permanent damage if I keep driving? It is sunday, so the honda dealer is closed. Oreilly and Autozone only have the Bosch brand. Is Bosch okay?
2) Is it the primary or secondary (under the car) o2 sensor that I have to replace.
Hello, new here. I am getting the P0135 error CEL code in my honda accord 2000 se. It idles rough. I've read that I need to replace it. I have a few questions:
1) Will it cause permanent damage if I keep driving? It is sunday, so the honda dealer is closed. Oreilly and Autozone only have the Bosch brand. Is Bosch okay?
2) Is it the primary or secondary (under the car) o2 sensor that I have to replace.
Check the wiring to the front ( = primary) O2 sensor first. It is more than likely a bad sensor but it is also possible the wiring failed somewhere between sensor and engine computer.
See above regarding Bosch. I will not use a Bosch sensor.
The effects of driving without a properly operating O2 sensor are a less than optimal fuel-air mixture. For the short term worst case this can destroy the catalytic converter, resulting in a several hundred dollar repair to get things back to OEM. But if you do just a little driving with a malfunctioning O2 sensor in the coming days (until you figure out what is causing the P0135 code), I would not expect problems.
Which engine do you have: F23A1 or F23A4? ULEV or non-ULEV?
Your primary O2 sensor is in the exhaust manifold as shown below for a non-ULEV:
#40 is the primary o2 sensor, and #27 is the secondary o2 sensor, right?
Yes, you have the part numbers correct for primary and secondary. To keep them straight: The primary sensor (a.k.a. upstream O2 sensor or front O2 sensor) monitors oxygen content /before/ the exhaust gets cleaned up some by the catalytic converter. The primary sensor then sends a signal to the ECU to adjust the fuel-air ratio (after the engine is warmed up and thus the ECU is in closed loop). The secondary sensor's (a.k.a. downstream O2 sensor or rear O2 sensor) purpose is mostly to monitor whether the catalytic converter is operating properly. Hence the secondary sensor is located downstream of the catalytic converter.
Check the wires going to and from the sensor first. Sometimes it is just a loose wire that sets off the code.
NGK is most likely the manufacturer of your Civic's OEM sensor. If it is not NGK, then it is Denso. Look at the old one for signs of which (NGK or Denso) it is. Online, you can get an NGK or Denso sensor for much less than what the dealerships (online or not) sell the OEM sensor for. I would buy only NGK or Denso. NGK and Denso cost a little more but I have seen enough reports of other makes not performing as well that I won't roll the dice on anything but NGK or Denso. (OTOH some people think Bosch and Walker are fine.)
If you want to go really cheap yet still have NGK or Denso, get a universal NGK or Denso, meaning you have to do some wire splicing. I spliced a universal onto my 93 Civic last year and it works great; the car just passed emissions with flying colors and gets 42 mpg.
You can borrow an oxygen sensor wrench from Autozone at no charge. Or buy one for around $10 at Autozone, Harbor Freight, Pep Boys, etc. Get one that you can put a torque wrench on. The sensor should free up more easily if the car is a little warm, since the sensor's threads will be stretched the hotter the metal is.
I'd like to know if my CRV must have a Honda upstream sensor or if a generic one is OK. Honda dealer says that must be my problem. Check engine light won't go out and the car takes MUCH more fuel and idles high/fast/ Gets hot etc. For some reason the dealership here just keeps saying it must be the sensor we installed. We need help.
I'd like to know if my CRV must have a Honda upstream sensor or if a generic one is OK. Honda dealer says that must be my problem. Check engine light won't go out and the car takes MUCH more fuel and idles high/fast/ Gets hot etc. For some reason the dealership here just keeps saying it must be the sensor we installed. We need help.
The factory O2 sensor is of higher quality than those that are considered OE replacements... in my experience, the OE sensors last about 125K miles. The cheap replacements typically only last about 25K miles... so the question is, do you want to buy FOUR or FIVE replacements over the next 125K miles, or just buy one more expensive one now ?
10-25-2009, 06:46 AM
Use OEM or Generic O2 sensor?
Re: Use OEM or Generic O2 sensor?
Bosch
