Tony M.

Hello all. I live in the US and have a 1998 Honda Civic DX hatch full CTR replica. The only thing the car was missing was the RHD, and the B16B. The car came with a JDM 98+ ITR with LSD but I pulled it out, and sold it. I bough the B16B (From HMO) and when it get's here I want to pretty much replace almost all the gaskets/seals I can. My question is since I'm here in the US and only have access to USDM B16A2 parts (99-00 Civic SI) what, CAN and CAN'T I use when replacing the gaskets? From reading and researching, the only thing I seem to keep coming across is the timing belt. Seeing how the deck height is the same at the ITR, can I use the ITR timing belt for the B16B? Can I order a timing belt for the USDM ITR (B18C5) and it work for the B16B?

Other than the timing belt, I think every other gasket/seal is the same as the B16A, which I can order through my local dealer (IE, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve cover, cam seals, rear main seal, crank seal, oil pan ect.)
Can anyone tell me any other belt/gasket that is different other than the timing belt?

My other question is the B16B that I ordered, I'm not sure if it comes with the pulleys for the power steering or AC. If it comes with the single pulley for the alternator, can I just buy a B16A pulley and put it on the crank so I can run my AC?

b18bEGhatch

You dont want to replace the valve stem seals?

Tony M.

Yes I do. The only gasket I'm not touching is the head gasket. Everything else I want to replace as mentioed above.

turtlegrip

I recommend doing HG/tbelt/water pump since that engine has been sitting for a long time.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Stop. Why do you want to replace seals and gaskets that are most likely fine? Don't open this motor up. Just replace the simple things. Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, t belt and water pump, front and rear cam/crank seals.

T belt and water pump are from a B18C5. Same with all of the above mentioned gaskets....although, almost every B series VTEC gasket is interchangeable.

Use a B18C5 pulley and B18C5 accessory belts if your CTR swap came with the single rib pulley.

Don't order thru a local dealer with insane mark ups. Try bernardiparts.com or hondaautomotiveparts.com.

I can't believe you would remove an ITR swap just to do another swap to a motor that's not nearly as good so you can "clone" a car that you'll never be able to clone. I doubt RHD and the swap were the only things missing. But hey....whatever tickles your proverbial pickle.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

No. Why would he? He bought a HMO swap. The stock seals are more than likely fine.

kyden

i honestly would leave the seals alone. if you run the motor and it leaks, then i would replace it. you can end up doing more harm than good.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

For the most part, I would say this is extremely accurate.

The point of buying a HMO swap is that it's a clean and low mileage drop-in deal. What's the point of buying that AND rebuilding it?

The reason I suggested the seals that I did is because they're cheap, any monkey can install them, and you'll want to replace the t belt and water pump anyway.

Oil pan gaskets are susceptible to leaks after the motor has been sitting on a pallet on top of the oil pan. But for God's sake...don't over torque the bolts. I'm sure you will anyway because everyone always seems to. But....don't.

Front cam/crank seals are right effing there when you're doing a t belt and water pump. BUT I will agree that these can be screwed up by someone who is uninitiated. So if you're not comfortable doing these seals and the originals aren't sweating oil, leave them alone. Same with the rear seals. I always do them because of the labor involved in doing them after the swap is in the chassis. But...I never make any mistakes ever in my whole life. So....

Tony M.

So you guys recommend only doing the timing belt/water pump seeing how the motor is already low mileage/ ready to drop in?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Exactly as described above would be my recommendations.

turtlegrip

From HMO website:

Start up warranty is only valid on USED, JDM & USDM motors and is unconditional when changing the following engine components:- spark plugs, spark plug wires (leads), rotor, timing belt, water pump and tension pulley. All of the previously mentioned have to be changed on JDM & USDM motors to become legible for the 100% start-up warranty.

Tony M.

This isn't my first Redeo. I'm pretty knowlegable when it comes to working on Honda motors. This is my first B16B though and don't know much about this motor, that's why I was mainly asking about the timing belt. I can't seem to find a firm answer on what timing belt to use.

From reading that it seems like the above mention HAVE to be changed in order for the 100% start up warranty to be affective. The warranty won't work unless I replace the mentioned.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The only thing not making this motor a B18C-R is the rotating assembly. So a B18C timing belt and water pump and tensioner and spring would fit the bill. Just order one for an ITR.

I can't think of any seals or gaskets that would be B16B specific. Any B series VTEC should have almost all the same gaskets.

HMO wants you to replace the t belt, water pump, tensioner, amd igniton parts. You were previously talking about EVERYTHING besides the HG.

Furthermore, it's just a start up warranty. Basically, they would want you to reppace the above stuff if the engine didn't start. If after replacing that stuff it STILL didn't start, you'd have your warranty claim.

It's smart to replace the t belt, pump, and tensioner/spring though. The last B16B's rolled out 14 years ago.

I'm curious as to what else you have done to the car that makes it close to a CTR? Ditching a B18C-R to jump into an engine that's going to make the car significantly slower just seems like a drastic step.

Tony M.

It looks like that's what I'll be replacing. I just wanted to make sure the engine was 100% and wouldn't give me any problem for years to come, but if that's all I need to replace then that's what I'll do.

I pulled the B18CR out because I bought the car with it in and I know the previous owner beat it to ****. I also wanted to make the car mine so pulling the motor out and putting something that you don't see often would be perfect for me, plus it's what the wife wanted. Where I live there is ony one B16B, and plenty of ITRs and GSRs. Buyingh a finished car is no fun, so I wanted to change it up and make the car mine. I guess that's the only way I can explain it.

As for the CTR "clone", its pretty much there. The full exterior, mirrors, fenders, front lip, rear lip, gril, headlights, 5 lug, I mean everything. Even the doors and the whole rear hatch was pulled off of a CTR and put on this hatch. OEM tint and all. It has Genuine Type R stickers, but that was the first to go, because it will never be an R. As for the interior, it's all there as well. carpet, rear seats, cup holder, door panels, pedals, ac bezel, everything everything. THe only think it's missing is the RHD conversion and the front seats. It had Recaro seats in it, but were pulled out and sold seperately to lower the price.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

5 lug? Suspension? Front EM1/CTR LCAs and swaybar? Rear swaybar? Stitch welded chassis? Sound deadening removal? CTR rear subframe and shock towers welded in? Not sure if CTR's have a thinner windshield like ITRs did? CTR paint scheme?

Not trying to sound like a dick. Just wondering at what point it becomes a "CTR clone". After owning a type R, I guess I get a little salty when I hear "clone" lol.

BTW, I'd keep that ITR ECU. The B16B map kinda sucks.

jdmjunkieXL

Feelings might get hurt

Tony M.

Feeling won't be hurt at all. I've been on this forum long enough to know there's always going to be that person who's going to give ****. I didn't build the car, so I can care less. I loved the way it looked and thought it would be a nice car to daily for the remaineder of my tour overseas, but at the same time try to make it my own. I guess I should have made it clear that what I purchased is an R "clone" in apearance. I know it will never be an R, and I don't plan on trying to make it one hence why the very first thing I did was rip those damn sitckers off.

My question has been answered. I was mainly trying to figure out the timing belt issue, because I couldn't seem to find an answer. Everywhere I kept searching was going back and forth. As for the Pulleys, I called HMO and Steve told me that the motor already has the pulleys for the AC and PS so I don't have to worry about trying to figue that out.

tony_2018

Google autodynamics honda and email the guy. Tell him your motor and he can find what you need. He is able to ship overseas to the US and he's been very helpful to me, did not rape on the shipping either.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

fixed. because I did answer all your questions.

Tony M.

Yes sir, you did Now off the Honda I go where the rape me in prices

tony_2018

Honda prices aren't rape unless you go to your local dealer. Since your we don't have any usdm b16b, my opinion, check out autodynamics.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

What does he need to buy that isn't sold in the US at US dealers? On his list of things...what is B1B specific?

I posted some honda dealership parts websites that offer a discount on honda parts.

turtlegrip

This may help in buying of parts:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bfaq%5D-your-guide-buying-quality-aftermarket-maintenance-parts-your-civic-3114911/