dragonvoi

UPDATE! Solved the problem, thanks dice & clinically. It was the tps i think. I picked up someones TB For free off of CL hoping ot had a tps, but it did not. It was moving a lot nicer than mine which was sorta sticky when closed even after cleaning. So, i swapped out the TB calibrated the TPS and i no longer have the mild surging problem! Idles great now and is a little high but i will address that soon (850 rpm)

I have done searches and followed several pieces of advice to other idle issue suffferers & FAQs have been followed as well I have not found my particular issue so here goes:

the problems (all idle related so technically it’s just one problem):

1. when I start the engine cold, it idles high @1500 rpm FINE. If i let it idle to normal operating temp, it will idle around 950 rpm but will surge between 800 to 1050. If i drive it's okay but it does surge and die out by the way the surging is enough to make shifting into 1st from a stop sorta iffy.

2. if i don't let it get to normal operating temp (drive it after idling for say 30 seconds), the idle stays high around 1600 to 2000 rpm (varies) and it still surges a couple 100 rpms, but if i restart the engine after it reaches temp, it idles around 900 rpm with the surge.

i really want to have this thing idle well as it is my DD and sorta hard to get in & out of parking spots when i stall. help is truly appreciated, I did not swap the motor myself (buddy did it) but I am mechanically inclined and have the tools & skills to do easy to moderate thing to my car.

car specs:
98 dx ek hatch
01 gsr b18c1,
ek harness, moded for vtec sensors etc.
Converted from auto to manual
96 gsr ecu
aem hybrid specific intake
no other performance mods (that i am aware of)
NO CEL's
what i have done already:

- check and replace vacuum lines and confirm routing.
- cleaned IACV with carb cleaner
- take apart throttle body inspected, and cleaned out.
- replace B gasket
- sprayed idling motor with carb cleaner around IM, & TB area to check for vacuum leaks
- replaced pcv valve
- checked timing
- bled coolant
- checked throttle body cable for sticking.
- reset ecu
what do you think i should do next? Has anyone had the same problems and care to tell me what you did?


Thanks in advance for your input.

dragonvoi

N e 1? Dont make me type it....

Ok fine v-tech? Vtech. Ne one?

=P

550whpcivic

Having the same problem lol

dragonvoi

Yeah, its been soo erratic... It frustrates me though because i have to basically change the way i drive depending on how it is idling. & i also think my mpg is suffering... What kind of ecu do u have 550whp?

rd91sib18c5r

I've seen alot of hondas do this, can't figure it out either. What I did to my car
was to block off the iac hole in the throttle body, It only affects it when the car is
cold, it idles low but once warmed up it drives normal. I have had 2 swaps that I
did this to plus a couple friends cars. Mine has been like this for over 5 years no surging.

dices543

Have you checked the TPS sensor?

I had similar issue except that my gsr's idle would go to 1500rpm during neutral until it came to a complete stop. Checked my tps and the voltage readings were off. It's supposed to be .45v to .5 at full throttle. Replaced it and it fixed my idle issues.

I would check your tps and make sure it's giving you the right voltage. Just a thought

morbius18

I had this problem, and mine was a combination of things. Throttle was slightly sticking. Idle adjustment screw on top of the TB was off and I had to reset the stop for the throttle. I hooked up the volt meter and adjusted the lower screw until it was in specs.

dragonvoi

@ dice Will check the tps!


Throttle isnt sticking and i already set the stop for tge throttle wHen i cleaned the TB. I Could never find how to adjust the idle screw on here... Can you tell me how? the one FAQ I found about the idle screw tells me to unplug the iacv when at operating temp and set it to base idle but my engine dies when i unplug the iacv. TIA

Abd thanks for ya'lls input!

dices543

This website is about the IACV but it shows you where the idle screw is located. Sorry i would have posted the honda-tech one but im leaving for school and this is the only one i have saved in my bookmarks.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ained-967.html

Also your engine shouldn't be dieing when you unplug the iacv plug, it should drop to like 500rpm or so, but good luck and go from there!

dragonvoi

Hmmm, imma try checking the tps first, then the idle screw, and reso rt to that if i need to. What did you use to block off the IAC hole in the TB?

rd91sib18c5r

A piece of soda can, slide it over the hole between the throttle body and he manifold.
First when your intake is off start the car cover the lower hole inside the throttle body,
if it idles right it will work.

clinicallyill

I would put my money on the TPS as well, my D16 was doing this and I did everything... then I bought a Blox Racing TPS cuz I didn't wanna buy a whole new TB and I went and got some tiny screws at a hardware store because you have to break the stupid Honda ones... and bingo, no more idle issue.