Understanding your COOLING SYSTEM
02-18-2006, 06:58 PM
#28
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Re: (kaoss_11)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaoss_11 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The funny thing is i did all this and noticed a significant difference in the way my car ran. I now rape it everyday with no worries.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly, thank you point proven with one simple post, and it was a real experiance.
Inproper cooling will lead to HP loss becuase the engine can not run at normal operating temp...... So why are you suggesting improving cooling system can not improve realiablitly, fuction, and preformance of the engine???
I am very lost like I said it is very indirect but it is true, a better managed engine will produce more power and will always be more reliable. end of thread thank you for the bumps.
One last bump for everyone to see.
Oh and by the way 56k sucks Work= cable
Home= 56k 
Exactly, thank you point proven with one simple post, and it was a real experiance.
Inproper cooling will lead to HP loss becuase the engine can not run at normal operating temp...... So why are you suggesting improving cooling system can not improve realiablitly, fuction, and preformance of the engine???
I am very lost like I said it is very indirect but it is true, a better managed engine will produce more power and will always be more reliable. end of thread thank you for the bumps.
One last bump for everyone to see.
Oh and by the way 56k sucks Work= cable
Home= 56k
02-18-2006, 07:46 PM
#29
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Re: (q45mm)
this may help defend the writer, as i think this is a very good topic
when you are running down the track at high rpm, your EGT's rise, especially if you are F/I. so, your headers, exhaust, and the combustion itself are rising in temperature, which in turn requires more from the cooling system. sure, you can run 300whp on a 4 banger with a stock radiator, but I wouldn't be surprised if after a 1/4 run the temperature goes above that middle mark on the gauge for a little while.
the cooling system is meant to maintain a certain temperature. if you are raising your horsepower and heat (indirectly), then it demands more of the cooling system to maintain that lower temperature.
this is why big v8's with stock radiators and cooling components tend to overheat after they run.
i doubt this topic was meant to tell ricers with their air filters and 4-2-1 DC headers they need to go get a bigass radiator
when you are running down the track at high rpm, your EGT's rise, especially if you are F/I. so, your headers, exhaust, and the combustion itself are rising in temperature, which in turn requires more from the cooling system. sure, you can run 300whp on a 4 banger with a stock radiator, but I wouldn't be surprised if after a 1/4 run the temperature goes above that middle mark on the gauge for a little while.
the cooling system is meant to maintain a certain temperature. if you are raising your horsepower and heat (indirectly), then it demands more of the cooling system to maintain that lower temperature.
this is why big v8's with stock radiators and cooling components tend to overheat after they run.
i doubt this topic was meant to tell ricers with their air filters and 4-2-1 DC headers they need to go get a bigass radiator
02-18-2006, 07:53 PM
#30
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Hrm, all my cars 'cept my GTI and benz I took the compressors out of, just because that's one less pulley to turn O.o
I don't even think my civic has AC, I have to look at the engine again, but I don't recall seeing an AC compressor button inside the car O.o
I don't even think my civic has AC, I have to look at the engine again, but I don't recall seeing an AC compressor button inside the car O.o
02-18-2006, 07:58 PM
#31
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hrm, all my cars 'cept my GTI and benz I took the compressors out of, just because that's one less pulley to turn O.o
I don't even think my civic has AC, I have to look at the engine again, but I don't recall seeing an AC compressor button inside the car O.o</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's fucken great. You know that A/C clutch turns off when you go WOT??? Well so yeah totaly useless, unless you going to remove the whole A/C system to loose whole 20pounds.
I don't even think my civic has AC, I have to look at the engine again, but I don't recall seeing an AC compressor button inside the car O.o</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's fucken great. You know that A/C clutch turns off when you go WOT??? Well so yeah totaly useless, unless you going to remove the whole A/C system to loose whole 20pounds.
02-18-2006, 08:02 PM
#32
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Re: (q45mm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by q45mm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Exactly, thank you point proven with one simple post, and it was a real experiance.
Inproper cooling will lead to HP loss becuase the engine can not run at normal operating temp...... So why are you suggesting improving cooling system can not improve realiablitly, fuction, and preformance of the engine???
I am very lost like I said it is very indirect but it is true, a better managed engine will produce more power and will always be more reliable. end of thread thank you for the bumps.
One last bump for everyone to see.
Oh and by the way 56k sucks Work= cable Home= 56k </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well if you cannot keep the engine at the proper operating temperature (aka overheating) you defently loose hp. And if you are too dumb to realize that you are overheating I'm sorry. Yes the engine will suffer power loss, and most likely major damage. You don't have to be a genious to figure that out.
But I'm saying if your engine is properly cooled you won't gain any power what so over by putting a bigger radiator on it. The only way you can gain power by altering the cooling system is to put an electric pump on it to reduce drag on the engine.
You cannot gain power with a bigger radiator, unless you got cooling issues. But if you got cooling issues you mostlikely already damaged your engine.
God this is horrible. Why is this even going on??? WTF?
Exactly, thank you point proven with one simple post, and it was a real experiance.
Inproper cooling will lead to HP loss becuase the engine can not run at normal operating temp...... So why are you suggesting improving cooling system can not improve realiablitly, fuction, and preformance of the engine???
I am very lost like I said it is very indirect but it is true, a better managed engine will produce more power and will always be more reliable. end of thread thank you for the bumps.
One last bump for everyone to see.
Oh and by the way 56k sucks Work= cable
Home= 56k </TD></TR></TABLE>Well if you cannot keep the engine at the proper operating temperature (aka overheating) you defently loose hp. And if you are too dumb to realize that you are overheating I'm sorry. Yes the engine will suffer power loss, and most likely major damage. You don't have to be a genious to figure that out.
But I'm saying if your engine is properly cooled you won't gain any power what so over by putting a bigger radiator on it. The only way you can gain power by altering the cooling system is to put an electric pump on it to reduce drag on the engine.
You cannot gain power with a bigger radiator, unless you got cooling issues. But if you got cooling issues you mostlikely already damaged your engine.
God this is horrible. Why is this even going on??? WTF?
02-20-2006, 07:55 PM
#33
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I agree with you but I do have to say that a properly temperatured motor will definately have more horses released but not gained. If you understand what I am saying.
08-08-2006, 11:27 AM
#36
Re: Understand your Cooling System. (q45mm)
what would be my case?
Now lets start with the basic components of the cooling system are.
1. Radiator (new 2" aluminum)
2. Fan (Electiric / Belt driven) (original, and working)
3. Water Pump (new)
4. Cap (new)
5. Thermostat (new)
6. Hoses (new radiator hoses and coolant lines)
7. Coolant (obviously new)
i'd like to add that i have a new fan switch and a new temp sensor as well.
i'll drive for about 30 min or if i drove hard, my reservoir would quickly fill up. when engine cools down, barely any coolant will get sucked back in. what's tha deal?
_taF
Now lets start with the basic components of the cooling system are.
1. Radiator (new 2" aluminum)
2. Fan (Electiric / Belt driven) (original, and working)
3. Water Pump (new)
4. Cap (new)
5. Thermostat (new)
6. Hoses (new radiator hoses and coolant lines)
7. Coolant (obviously new)
i'd like to add that i have a new fan switch and a new temp sensor as well.
i'll drive for about 30 min or if i drove hard, my reservoir would quickly fill up. when engine cools down, barely any coolant will get sucked back in. what's tha deal?
_taF
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