ringgold

Well I got an Integra RS brake swap for my 92 Dx Hatch. Installed the front the other day because I have yet to get new RTA bushings for the rear setup. Bled the brakes probably 50 times a piece. Pedal has tons of pressure when the engine is off, no pressure when the engine is running. So today I get a new master cylinder and install it. Bleed the brakes again no air coming out only clean fluid. Still the same thing!!! Pedal has good pressure while engine is off, crank it up and the pedal pretty much goes to the floor.

I have yet to swap out the brake booster or the check valve, but that is the only thing left other than the prop valve.

I have checked for leaks off all kinds and see not one. No trace of a leak from anywhere. I was a Hydraulic Systems Specialist in the Air Force and did tons of brake bleeds and repairs on aircraft so I know how to bleed them correctly. People always like to point the finger towards the MC but in this case it was not. People also say that the BB is good if when you crank the engine up and the pedal softens up and goes down. Well mine does that but it likes to travel all way to the floor pretty much.

Ill get to the bottom of this problem and let you all know what fixed it. I have did a lot of searching on here and found many threads with the same problem but no one ever gives a solution.

gourley

check to make sure your rear drums are working, takeoff the outer part of the drum and make sure there all intact, mine were all broken and I had to replace everyting. your rear brakes engage your front brakes, so if your rears are broken your front wont work

ringgold

Umm, 3 days ago my brakes were great they were just stock Civic Dx brakes. I decide that Im going to go ahead and atleast install the front Integra brakes and it all goes down hill from there. I did drive the car once just to see how the stopping power was even though the pedal would basically hit the floor. The car stopped but the brakes would not lock up and the pedal would then hit the floor when I got on them hard.

So there is nothing wrong with my rear brakes just out of the blue. I would be amazed if it was. On top of that Im pretty sure your rear brakes dont engage your front brakes, I have never heard that in my life.

dtapia

are you sure you installed the calipars on the correct side? from what your saying it sounds like you have the right side on the left side dbl check because that will cause the problem you are refering to.

gourley

i think u need a diff prop valve and a new MC

ringgold

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dtapia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure you installed the calipars on the correct side? from what your saying it sounds like you have the right side on the left side dbl check because that will cause the problem you are refering to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, dont really think I could install them on the wrong side, considering they have a big R and L on them plus you just dont install stuff like that backwards. Can they even go on backwards?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duheeat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think u need a diff prop valve and a new MC</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude stop posting in here!!! First off you said the rear brakes engage the front, hahahahahaha

Secondly, I just put a new MC on there today. Doesnt make a difference what prop valve or mc that I have on my car the pedal and brakes should feel better than what I got going on.

gourley

dude i think you need to search a little and know how to put on brakes, i just fixed my brakes, dont even tell me what is what when i just fixed mine

ringgold

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duheeat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude i think you need to search a little and know how to put on brakes, i just fixed my brakes, dont even tell me what is what when i just fixed mine</TD></TR></TABLE>


Dont talk to me about searching dude. Thats why my post count isnt that high and I been on h-t since it started pretty much. I know the ins and outs of a EG hatch and a brake system. For one thing I never asked anyone for any help. I stated my problem and said that I would get to the bottom and fix it, then I would let people know the solution to the problem. Obviously, you didnt read my post or else you would know.

smileycvc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ringgold &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, dont really think I could install them on the wrong side, considering they have a big R and L on them plus you just dont install stuff like that backwards. Can they even go on backwards?

Dude stop posting in here!!! First off you said the rear brakes engage the front, hahahahahaha

Secondly, I just put a new MC on there today. Doesnt make a difference what prop valve or mc that I have on my car the pedal and brakes should feel better than what I got going on. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually he is right. Intregra brakes use a diffrent proporting valve and pump more fluid. They use a 1 inch master cylinder verse the 5/8ths or 7/8ths (cant remeber which one) master cylinder that comes stock on your car. If you do just the brake swap you will have a sloppy pedal until you UPGRADE , not replace the master cylinder, brake booster and prop valve.

dtapia

[QUOTE=ringgold]

Yeah, dont really think I could install them on the wrong side, considering they have a big R and L on them plus you just dont install stuff like that backwards. Can they even go on backwards?

actually you can install on the wrong side the only real diffrence will be the bleeder valve will be on the bottom and not the top where it should be.

Archidictus

Did you bleed the rears as well or just the fronts?

I believe that you have the parts on the correct sides and that the MC is installed correctly and that you've bled the brakes properly. Don't let any of these moron noobs get to you. You have an issue and they all want to toss their pennies in without actually knowing dick.

Water off a duck's back, man

The improper proportioning valve won't have that extreme an effect on the pedal travel. There are really only a few reasons the pedal would be doing that at all.

1.) really fucked up brake booster or check valve
2.) massive air in the rear brake lines
3.) pinhole leak in a hardline maybe?

I dunno. Check everything for leaks, see if you can get a vacuum reading on the BB and rebleed the rears maybe. Sounds like a ******** of a problem. Good luck.

smileycvc

I have GSR brakes all the way around on my hatch. I never replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, or prop valve. Now the pedal feels softer, but the car does stop faster. Now I know if I were to swap everthing it would eliminate the pedal slop and Im sure it would stop faster.

dtapia

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you bleed the rears as well or just the fronts?

I believe that you have the parts on the correct sides and that the MC is installed correctly and that you've bled the brakes properly. Don't let any of these moron noobs get to you. You have an issue and they all want to toss their pennies in without actually knowing dick.

Water off a duck's back, man

The improper proportioning valve won't have that extreme an effect on the pedal travel. There are really only a few reasons the pedal would be doing that at all.

1.) really fucked up brake booster or check valve
2.) massive air in the rear brake lines
3.) pinhole leak in a hardline maybe?

I dunno. Check everything for leaks, see if you can get a vacuum reading on the BB and re bleed the rears maybe. Sounds like a ******** of a problem. Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok first off what gives i have not referenced you as been a jack *** or anything right !
second if you read his post he stated the brakes were working fine until he did the swap as for my self i have not done a brake swap but i have done the aem and brembro swaps and ho new brake master or booster was needed for them to operate correctly so scratch your booster theory.now im wondering if he forgot to mention something he did or didn't do and now he has a brake problem. their is some great suggestions on here but some are far fetched. i did not say he did install the calipers on the wrong side i was merely asking if he made sure they were installed correctly that's all since the bleeder screw will always be on the top on the caliper when in the correct position. if they were installed on the wrong side the air in the calipers will never bleed out of the front the air will be trapped in the top portion of the calipers.

jerdizzle14

i would check the check valve make sure its attached to engine vacuum

ringgold

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you bleed the rears as well or just the fronts?

I believe that you have the parts on the correct sides and that the MC is installed correctly and that you've bled the brakes properly. Don't let any of these moron noobs get to you. You have an issue and they all want to toss their pennies in without actually knowing dick.

Water off a duck's back, man

The improper proportioning valve won't have that extreme an effect on the pedal travel. There are really only a few reasons the pedal would be doing that at all.

1.) really fucked up brake booster or check valve
2.) massive air in the rear brake lines
3.) pinhole leak in a hardline maybe?

I dunno. Check everything for leaks, see if you can get a vacuum reading on the BB and rebleed the rears maybe. Sounds like a ******** of a problem. Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Archidictus

Im not really sure yet but I think the brake booster may be the culprit. I have seriously bled well over a quart of fluid through the entire brake system. If there was air in that system it would have come out by now. I have looked around for any form of a leak and have not noticed one yet. Like I said I was a Hydraulic Specialist on aircraft in the Air Force for 4 years. I have been trained and seen all kinds of weird problems in a hydraulic system. The amount of fluid I have bled from my brake system is more than we would bleed from a quarter mile of hydraulic lines on certain aircraft hahah.

Ill get to the bottom of this problem and post up what I did to fix it. I know guys that have brake swaps and didnt change the prop valve or MC and their brakes work fine. I have never encountered a brake problem like this before so its new to me.

ringgold

A little update. My brakes just randomly feel alot better today!! I have no clue how that happens but the pedal pressure is alot better and response is better as well.