JDM_ek9

Hey guys well since I went to the track yesterday and seen a few turbo cars and a few all motor cars. It made me re-think about going GSR Turbo and just build it all motor. Almost all turbo cars were having traction problems and if that's the case why would I want something like that. If I did get a turbo I DO NOT want the BOV sound coming out WHAT SO EVER. I know that sounds weird but my car is black with black rims and tints. I keep it as stock looking and sounding as possible. the FMIC I would want to find one in black/ or hidden behind my lower grill.

People that are turbo and people that are N/A.

My questions to you are:

1. Why did you choose turbo rather then N/A??? (same question to N/A guys but reversed)

2. How is the traction and what 60 ft times you guys pulling off??? (both N/A and Turbo)

3. How is N/A compared to Turbo for a daily driven car???

hatchback19

Well you can fix the problem of the BOV by putting a hose on the horn and routing it back into your intake. This is how the 2G DSMs do it, thats why they rarly blow off. I choose turbo becuase you can make much more power. Given there are a lot of fast N/A cars but it's much more expensive. If you go N/A you will most likly have to raise your compression quite a bit, requring 94 octaine gas. So hopfully you can get 94 octaine gas where you live, and can afford it. For daily driving it could get quite expensive. Get a set of slicks or drag radials to fix the whole traction problem. Good luck,
Matt

Marauder

horsepower/$ you can't beat a turbo. A turbo will give you the most horsepower of the other forced induction options. A supercharger usually puts out less power per dollar spent on the setup.

With a high horsepower setup you can make use of a good LSD, to spin both tires, to eliminate torque steer. To aid in traction, but tires that stick better, like my Toyo RA1's.

They do make BOV's that are quiet. Mine's pretty loud and turns a lot of heads. I also notice I don't get revved up on much, probably since they don't know how much boost I am running.

N/A can be more reliable, but like everything, it depends on how it is built. A well built N/A car can be very reliable. But then, so can a properly setup FI car, as long as the boost level isn't too much for the bottom end to handle.

NonovUrbizniz

the turbo guys were loosing traction cuz they had more power...

It doesn't matter how you make the power your traction limitations are based on drivetrain and tires... if you make 400 whp na or boosted your going to have traction problems...

as far as gas differences... if you're boosting I wouldn't run any lower octane than I would If I had a high comp. na build... they both run high compression the turbo more so depending on boost and rpm.

JDM_ek9

^^^ no where near to the questions of the thread.

joe_bocc

I know what your going through trying to decide whether to go turbo or N/A.

This may not answer your question, but I think deciding between the two is a matter of your driving preference. I love the thought of revving up to like 9500 rpms with a N/A engine. The sound on N/A is so sexy too. For these reasons I am leaning more toward a well-rounded N/A set-up.

When it all comes down to it, your the one that should make the decision.

RaIn

Well I went N/A , when I really wanted to go turbo originally, but nw I'm glad I went N/A.

1. Why did you choose turbo rather then N/A??? (same question to N/A guys but reversed) I chose N/A bc its alot more reliable then turbo. And Turbo is alot more expensive, and I was kind of on a budget, yes its more expensive to make an N/A honda put the same HP numbers as a turbo honda. But my 185whp N/A honda is goign to beat your 300whp Turbo honda, bc your 300whp is at FULL boost.

2. How is the traction and what 60 ft times you guys pulling off??? (both N/A and Turbo) My traction isn't all that bad for street tires, but I bet with drag radials I could launch alot higher and still not spin. I ran a 14.373 with a 2.232 60's time in a coupe.

3. How is N/A compared to Turbo for a daily driven car??? Daily driven is so much better for N/A I never have any big problems, and I don't have to constantly worry about boost leaks, or oil leaks... The only minor problems I have had was a loose throttle cable... Just remember the more torque (obviously turbo) the more chance you have in breaking things/bolts. Also I'm pretty sure I get way better gas mileage then the turbo honda guys.

Evs-One

turbo is better for daily driving IMO because you can just crank down the boost and take it easy on the engine, whereas NA, you're always pushing the high compression and lumpy cams no matter what.

For turbo BOV's, the Blitz one on my room mate's car has a filter attatchment that matches the Blitz air filter(awww, how cute, yes), and it's quiets down the sound like mad.

But don't think about not being heard, especially with a bigger turbo and external wastegate. This will be louder than anything else


edit- turbo charging is the most efficient way to make hp...take that however you want

Marauder

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaIn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But my 185whp N/A honda is goign to beat your 300whp Turbo honda, bc your 300whp is at FULL boost.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ummm.....I totally don't agree. At 185 whp....how much torque are you putting down to the wheels, may I ask?

The faster car will be the one with the most area under the curve, the torque curve that is. A 300 whp turbo car vs. the same wieght as a 185 whp NA car....well, the NA car will get spanked...prepare to hand over your pinkslip!

NonovUrbizniz

well your reasoning for second guessing yourself seemed flawed... I figured I'd point out why you shouldn't have been worrying about it instead of explaining what my personal thoughts on the subject were...

1. I didn't choose so....
2. I don't drag race so....
3. I agree with the guy who said turbo... na your running around CONSTANTLY putting out that power with NO say in the matter... with a turbo you can drop down the boost on the street beyond that depending on where your turbo spools up you don't even have to hit boost at all for daily driving...

OT... on the guy with the 185 v 300... uhhh.. no not a chance... because A)at the track even if the turbo spools at like 4k he'll NEVER be under that except in 1st and even then probobly not cuz he'll launch at over that and with slicks and a good hook up... he's WAY over your 185 even if not at peak... B) on the road or in auto-x he's got gears... he can down shift and get his revs up when he needs the power...

Also where is your 185hp... PEAK right?

hatchback19

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaIn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And Turbo is alot more expensive, and I was kind of on a budget, yes its more expensive to make an N/A honda put the same HP numbers as a turbo honda. But my 185whp N/A honda is goign to beat your 300whp Turbo honda, bc your 300whp is at FULL boost.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If that was even remotly truthfull, there would be a lot more N/A Hondas. The 185whp N/A motor Honda MAY get the FI car off the line, but that's it. Soon as 4k comes around the race is over. There is no way that is possible given the motors are in same car with same drivers.. etc.. It's a lot cheaper to get power from a turbo then it is N/A. Since you get a lot more with boost.

Marauder

I still think its cheaper to go turbo than NA. On a D16Y8....how much would it take to put down 176 whp @ 6800 rpm and 141 ft-lbs @4500rpm. The turbo kit only costs the most of $3500. And its all bolt-on.

For a NA setup with all bolt-ons, exhaust, intake, even ignition....will only make about 120 to 125 whp @ 6800 rpm and 100 to 105 ft-lbs. That's spending like $1500 to 2000, depending on band of parts. To even get close to the turbo kit, you would have to fully build the NA engine, taking lots more money.

Marauder

I was just thinking.....if you are worried about traction. The new software version of the AEM EMS can be programmed for traction control. You can monitor wheel speed vs. engine speed and for FI cars, adjust boost, or NA cars you can change timing or other things.

That is, unless you are competing where they don't allow tractioni control.