Turbo D16
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Turbo D16
My friend has an EG and he is set on buying a single cam motor, a d16y8. I keep telling him to get an b18a/b, but that's a different story.
What is a good setup for a stock d16y8, how much boost is safe without buiding the bottom end? Is management necessary if he is only planning on running 6 PSI?
Where is a good place to buy a single cam motor?
I am an all motor junkie and I am new to turbo's so I can't help him out.
What is a good setup for a stock d16y8, how much boost is safe without buiding the bottom end? Is management necessary if he is only planning on running 6 PSI?
Where is a good place to buy a single cam motor?
I am an all motor junkie and I am new to turbo's so I can't help him out.
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Re: Turbo D16 (hybrid honda)
6 psi is safe. i would just get a vafc to get the fuel right. if he wanted to he could run 7 and still be safe. but he should at least get a block guard or something to help the motor out.
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Re: Turbo D16 (sohcvtec1995)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec1995 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6 psi is safe. i would just get a vafc to get the fuel right. if he wanted to he could run 7 and still be safe. but he should at least get a block guard or something to help the motor out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
block gaurd really wouldnt do anything, the weakest part are the rods and the botom end the block should handle 14psi
block gaurd really wouldnt do anything, the weakest part are the rods and the botom end the block should handle 14psi
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Re: Turbo D16 (kabaroo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kabaroo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
block gaurd really wouldnt do anything, the weakest part are the rods and the botom end the block should handle 14psi
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Blockguard does help, but I would go with forged rods and pistons first.
block gaurd really wouldnt do anything, the weakest part are the rods and the botom end the block should handle 14psi
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Blockguard does help, but I would go with forged rods and pistons first.
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boost it, blow it, buy a new one. That's the only good thing about running a sohc. There cheap and you can find them anywere. But if you want it to last I would use a fmu.
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#8
at the jetties fishin'
Re: (ill94hatch)
I boost 10psi on the stock fuel system and the greddy blue box on my d16y8....and yes, I'm running the greddy turbo but you can run any turbo you want @ 10psi with the blue box (fuel management for cheap bastards )
I did intercool it after 8psi though.
You'll need to change fuel management after 10-11psi as the blue box craps out after that due to the stock MAP sensor voltage being pegged and even though it modifies the map voltage for the ecu...it also READS from it to compensate fuel for the boost...so you can see how the stock map sensor topping out would limit the blue box.
I'm getting ready to get a vortec s-fmu and build the top end of my y8 and see just what the bottom will take stock now that I found a good .60/.63 oil-fed T3 from an old datsun 280zx turbo car...this should be fun
I did intercool it after 8psi though.
You'll need to change fuel management after 10-11psi as the blue box craps out after that due to the stock MAP sensor voltage being pegged and even though it modifies the map voltage for the ecu...it also READS from it to compensate fuel for the boost...so you can see how the stock map sensor topping out would limit the blue box.
I'm getting ready to get a vortec s-fmu and build the top end of my y8 and see just what the bottom will take stock now that I found a good .60/.63 oil-fed T3 from an old datsun 280zx turbo car...this should be fun
#9
Re: (ill94hatch)
jeez.. there is a thread like this almost everyday. head over to turbod16.com, and the fi forum -look around and search there for awhile. again, read maximum boost by corky bell before you go buying stuff you dont want or need.
i've *heard* that the stock bottom end could safely handle 10psi all day, but i wouldn't risk it. if i were you, i wouldn't run more than 7psi daily on a stock bottom end, assuming you've already got good fuel managment, and a good conservative tune.
if your gonna go turbo, i say get your money's worth: do everything right the first time - get the rods and pistons, along with good engine management and tuning. then, enjoy 10-20 psi all day with little fear of breaking something.
i've *heard* that the stock bottom end could safely handle 10psi all day, but i wouldn't risk it. if i were you, i wouldn't run more than 7psi daily on a stock bottom end, assuming you've already got good fuel managment, and a good conservative tune.
if your gonna go turbo, i say get your money's worth: do everything right the first time - get the rods and pistons, along with good engine management and tuning. then, enjoy 10-20 psi all day with little fear of breaking something.
#10
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Re: (jwn7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your gonna go turbo, i say get your money's worth: do everything right the first time - get the rods and pistons, along with good engine management and tuning. then, enjoy 10-20 psi all day with little fear of breaking something. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I would only suggest that if you are really gung ho about d16's, or like me, want to learn how to rebuild an engine for much cheaper than a b series. There is nothing cheap about rebuilding an engine, even if it is a d16. Let's not kid ourselves, the B series is the engine with more potential, hands down.
Like I said, I have chosen to do the turbo d16 build, because I want to build an engine that can take the abuse, and learn a ton doing it. If I tried this with a b16, the cost of the engine alone would be more than what I am spending on rods, pistons, and so forth. Opting for a d series, puts most of the money I spend toward upgrades, not just obtaining the engine alone.
If I just wanted simple speed, no fuss, bolt it up and go, there is no question I would opt for a b series, or h series engine. Just my opinion.
I would only suggest that if you are really gung ho about d16's, or like me, want to learn how to rebuild an engine for much cheaper than a b series. There is nothing cheap about rebuilding an engine, even if it is a d16. Let's not kid ourselves, the B series is the engine with more potential, hands down.
Like I said, I have chosen to do the turbo d16 build, because I want to build an engine that can take the abuse, and learn a ton doing it. If I tried this with a b16, the cost of the engine alone would be more than what I am spending on rods, pistons, and so forth. Opting for a d series, puts most of the money I spend toward upgrades, not just obtaining the engine alone.
If I just wanted simple speed, no fuss, bolt it up and go, there is no question I would opt for a b series, or h series engine. Just my opinion.
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Re: (piscorpio)
Thanks for the help guys.
Again this isn't for my car so I am not searching around for info, this is for a friends car, I have already done tons of searching for my car This is just to give him some basic info and where to possibly find a used motor.
I just wanted some general info about safe amount of boost etc, management......
If you have a d16y8 for sale PM me, sorry mods I know this isn't the classifieds, but this is tech related also.
Again this isn't for my car so I am not searching around for info, this is for a friends car, I have already done tons of searching for my car This is just to give him some basic info and where to possibly find a used motor.
I just wanted some general info about safe amount of boost etc, management......
If you have a d16y8 for sale PM me, sorry mods I know this isn't the classifieds, but this is tech related also.
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