germanturtle

iTrader: (1)

i currently have a gsr swapped eg.i have an aftermarket intake manifold with carb compliant sticker, aem cai with sticker, stock on the outside. running hondata s300. running a cat, but have 2 1/2 inch pipe from cat back with a stock looking muffler.i have a jdm throttle body that lacks the fitting to hook up my evap canister. i gotta get smogged, knowing i will fail for visual i figured i should get a throttle body, hook up the evap canister and get reff'd. i live close to the bay area in ca and need to know where the best spot in your opinion is. car is lowered has some aftermarket goodies that could draw visual attention..anything i need to know to help pass the ref would be greatly appreciated. parts to add/remove/avoid..cost involved in the ref proccess???do i smog after the ref, given i have passed...thanks for the input,advice.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

What are you asking exactly?

germanturtle

iTrader: (1)

sorry, short and sweet = need to ref b18c, what do i need to do to pass first try.in an eg

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I think you have a handle on it since you seem to know exactly what is deficient with your car. When in doubt call a ref station.

germanturtle

iTrader: (1)

im looking for knowledge, if anyone out there has any id appreciate it

b18ef8

Get the usdm throttle body. If all your evap lines are correct and no cel you should pass visual no problem.

Post pics of how you have ur evap lines hooked up

germanturtle

iTrader: (1)

thanks ef8 pics to come soon..ill try tonight

flush_EJ1

Just take it to the Ref as is; he will let you know what is missing. Then fix what he told you is wrong. Everything must be hooked up exactly like it would be in the GSR. Sometimes they overlook stuff so you might get lucky. (doubt it though)

dem0nk1d

hondata will fail, you'll need the correct ecu for that engine if the ref checks. and the throttle-body needs to have that evap ****.

fungus mungus

^ x2. If the Ref sees blinkies on your ECU, you'll fail. And they will check. They aren't out to fail you, just to make sure you do things right. It's no biggie if you fail the first time. They'll tell you what to fix...fix it and come back a second time. Once you pass ref, you will have to pass smog.

fm

dem0nk1d

yes and the awesome thing about the smog, it doesn't cost you money. well it didn't cost me **** when i swapped the 1998 5vz 3.4 engine into my Toyota 92 3.0 frame.

So here was my list of things which will transfer into your case

ECU was for the 98 5vz Engine
All the EVAP was hooked up correctly
had no issue with any kind of funky manifold setups like on our beloved honderz
Since i converted from Obd1 -> Obd2 it need the data port and was tested by the Ref
The cat was aftermarket but was a CA Legal Version for the 98 4runner / 3.4 engine

That was my ordeal with the Ref, I failed the first time around because the guy said he couldn't find the E.O Number on the cat. I was super pissed after i left and check with the following website for the E.O Number on the cat.

http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermk...es/amquery.php

Very helpful info. Check it out.

dem0nk1d

Another note CARB numbers are registered to different type of engines, and if it doesn't match the application the ref will fail. For example you have a intake for obd1 integra CARB complaint, but the engine you have is a obd2 the ref can fail you for this.

Stupid ****, but it all adds up. Be respectful even if you fail the first time around, and ask questions why.

germanturtle

iTrader: (1)

thanks to all..sounds like i should get down there anyone have any info on address/ or phone number. i hear people sayin good things on contra costa. where is the place at?? i search hi and low and get everything other then what im looking for..

dem0nk1d

you need to call the 1800 number and they will refer you to the nearest ref station in your area.

http://arb.ca.gov/html/contact.htm

check that page and call General Inquiries or call (800) 242-4450

they should be able to direct you to the correct phone number if that's not it already

germanturtle

iTrader: (1)

thanks demon, u have provided mad amounts of knowledge..im gonna try calling tommorow..happy holidays

whitehf

u should try to run stock parts, alot easier...i failed my first time because the carb#'s on my comptech header (running b18c1) pulled up as s2000 headers....

milkwasabadidea

If you have aftermarket parts. They have to have oe# for gsr motor. Make sure you have the right cat, make sure all the vaccum lines are hooked up right and not plugged or pinched off... also you will need the right ecu.. it has to communicate with the refs computer via dlc connector.

If you have any codes you will fail, if you have more than 1 monitor not ready, you will fail. He will also check your gas cap and your fuel tank....

After your done with visual he will run the smog test. If you fail, the test is free, if you pass, its 8.25 for the certificate. Then you get your label/sticker

If you fail he will tell you why and what you will need to pass

germanturtle

iTrader: (1)

so here are some pics of the throttle body i was running, if anyone can help identify please do, was told it was jdm, but hell if i know... and the throttle body thats installed on the manifold is the "obd1 gsr" tb thats going to hopefully get me closer to passing the ref... also some pics of the charcoal can which i hope i got the right one, should be obd1 as well.. but identify if im mistakin.. so after installing the tb she starts hyperventalatin.. revin from a lil over 2k up to 4 k. ive red to test the tps, is this the correct thing to do, am i correct in the way i have hooked everything up??? thanks again

dem0nk1d

dem0nk1d

Notice where the idle adjustment screw is on the picture above. and then look at your picture. "one of these are not like the others" you're missing the hose barb for the char-canister.

germanturtle

iTrader: (1)

sorry i wasnt clear in my post, those pics were all of my previous setup, here are some pics of my current setup..please help....idle is crazy and all over the place..

dem0nk1d

hmm, it's possible the throttle position sensor could be off. you can always slot the security screws and dial it in correctly just to be sure. that would be my first start, and check for leaks around the throttle body while it's installed on the car and running. a quick and easy test is let it idle and spray it with some carb cleaner, if idle drops you have a leak at the gasket.

http://hondaswap.com/~pills/obd1guide.html

dem0nk1d

oh and spray that idle screw down to, it's possible it's sucking in air. if that's the case you'll need to seal it. some people will say use Teflon tape, but i'd rather use plumbers dope a little dab of it on the threads and you should be good to go!

dem0nk1d

if the coolant lines have FITV, that could be clogged and making idle erratic. anything is possible

germanturtle

iTrader: (1)

are you suggesting to clean the fitv??