Trying to diagnose my turbo civic's overheating issue...
#1
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Trying to diagnose my turbo civic's overheating issue...
Here's some background info. on the car:
- 1997 civic EX coupe, 114k
- Bought with 73k in April 2001
- Not-a-one problem until now
- Oil changed regularly
- Haven't touched the coolant since I got the car
- Timing belt replaced, water pump "said" to be fine by mechanic (not sure though)
Here are some symptoms I've documented:
- The car is taking longer and longer to warm up; first the temp. gauge gets to normal operating temp. , then the heater kicks in about 1-2 minutes later. VERY annoying in 10 degree Minnesota winter weather.
- After about 10 minutes of driving, the temp. gauge starts to creep up from 1/3, where it has been since I've owned it for the last 2.5 yrs., to about 1/2 way then all the way up to just below the H in some cases, before it drops abruptly down to about 1/2 way. Then it'll do it all over again after about 5 min. at normal operating temp.
- The temp. level goes back to about 1/2 or even 1/3 when I put the heater on full blast for about 30 seconds or so. Then the ******* thing just does it again after about 5-10 min.
- I have checked my oil, it is not milky at all. No signs of coolant in my oil, or oil in my coolant (i.e. overflow tank).
- When it first started to overheat, I pulled over and popped my hood. The coolant was JUST above the MAX level, and yet the temp. was consistently at roughly 3/4 level.
- Now, after about a week or two, when it happened again (didn't happen in between that time), I noticed the coolant level in the overflow tank was below the min., however there was no sign of any coolant in my engine bay or on any parts that I could see. But I'm not really sure what it would look like all over the engine bay, green I assume? If so, then I didn't see any.
- My plugs look normal.
- When the overheating issue occurred and I had a chance to pop my hood (usually I'm in a rush to get to my class so I can't always check it), I check the upper hose, which is immediately hot to the touch, whereas the lower hose is relatively cold. Not freezing, I can feel the warmth, but nowhere near the upper hose.
- I haven't noticed any leaks in my driveway, but then again, I haven't really been under my car since the snow fell about a month ago.
- There are no signs of white smoke coming from my exhaust, either at idle or WOT when boosting.
- I have NOT opened the radiator cap, because I constantly forget to before I drive the car, so it's too hot to touch then . Is there a certain level that I'm supposed to gauge it by on the radiator?
- My fan goes on only sometimes, when it overheats it's only on about 30% of the time, meaning sometimes it's on when it overheats, and sometimes it isn't. This points to a faulty thermostat.
Here are the possible causes I'm guessing may be the culprit:
- faulty thermostat
- old coolant (time for flush/refill)
- faulty radiator cap
- faulty water pump
- leaky headgasket
- air bubble in coolant system
Being a cheap bastard like I am, I hope that the issues are contained in the smiley brackets. If it's a water pump - oh well, I've budgeted for it to go bad. If it's the headgasket, well...I can't afford labor, so I'll be bustin' out the Haynes and gettin' to work!
Ideas?
- 1997 civic EX coupe, 114k
- Bought with 73k in April 2001
- Not-a-one problem until now
- Oil changed regularly
- Haven't touched the coolant since I got the car
- Timing belt replaced, water pump "said" to be fine by mechanic (not sure though)
Here are some symptoms I've documented:
- The car is taking longer and longer to warm up; first the temp. gauge gets to normal operating temp. , then the heater kicks in about 1-2 minutes later. VERY annoying in 10 degree Minnesota winter weather.
- After about 10 minutes of driving, the temp. gauge starts to creep up from 1/3, where it has been since I've owned it for the last 2.5 yrs., to about 1/2 way then all the way up to just below the H in some cases, before it drops abruptly down to about 1/2 way. Then it'll do it all over again after about 5 min. at normal operating temp.
- The temp. level goes back to about 1/2 or even 1/3 when I put the heater on full blast for about 30 seconds or so. Then the ******* thing just does it again after about 5-10 min.
- I have checked my oil, it is not milky at all. No signs of coolant in my oil, or oil in my coolant (i.e. overflow tank).
- When it first started to overheat, I pulled over and popped my hood. The coolant was JUST above the MAX level, and yet the temp. was consistently at roughly 3/4 level.
- Now, after about a week or two, when it happened again (didn't happen in between that time), I noticed the coolant level in the overflow tank was below the min., however there was no sign of any coolant in my engine bay or on any parts that I could see. But I'm not really sure what it would look like all over the engine bay, green I assume? If so, then I didn't see any.
- My plugs look normal.
- When the overheating issue occurred and I had a chance to pop my hood (usually I'm in a rush to get to my class so I can't always check it), I check the upper hose, which is immediately hot to the touch, whereas the lower hose is relatively cold. Not freezing, I can feel the warmth, but nowhere near the upper hose.
- I haven't noticed any leaks in my driveway, but then again, I haven't really been under my car since the snow fell about a month ago.
- There are no signs of white smoke coming from my exhaust, either at idle or WOT when boosting.
- I have NOT opened the radiator cap, because I constantly forget to before I drive the car, so it's too hot to touch then . Is there a certain level that I'm supposed to gauge it by on the radiator?
- My fan goes on only sometimes, when it overheats it's only on about 30% of the time, meaning sometimes it's on when it overheats, and sometimes it isn't. This points to a faulty thermostat.
Here are the possible causes I'm guessing may be the culprit:
- faulty thermostat
- old coolant (time for flush/refill)
- faulty radiator cap
- faulty water pump
- leaky headgasket
- air bubble in coolant system
Being a cheap bastard like I am, I hope that the issues are contained in the smiley brackets. If it's a water pump - oh well, I've budgeted for it to go bad. If it's the headgasket, well...I can't afford labor, so I'll be bustin' out the Haynes and gettin' to work!
Ideas?
#2
my car was doing the SAME exact thing after my turbo install. I think its because you have air in the coolant system. I solved mine buy letting the engine run for like 15 mins with the coolant cap off and the heat on full blast. I also added some extra coolant. I did this about a month ago and it hasnt done it since.
#3
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Location: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
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Re: (Slammd Sol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slammd Sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car was doing the SAME exact thing after my turbo install. I think its because you have air in the coolant system. I solved mine buy letting the engine run for like 15 mins with the coolant cap off and the heat on full blast. I also added some extra coolant. I did this about a month ago and it hasnt done it since.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh HELL yes!
Oh HELL yes!
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