sLyBlAzNbBoI

Hey guys, my 92 hatch has been sitting for 2 months so my battery is dead. But here goes, I just cleaned and tightened my ECU ground on the t-stat housing. After that, I checked the 15 amp 24 and 31 fuses and they weren't visibly blown, but I replaced them with brand new ones anyway. I then unplugged my main fuel relay and tried to jump terminals 1 and 7 and 5 and 7 with a pin, but the fuel pump still didn't prime. I just purchased a multimeter and test light earlier today, but my battery is essentially dead now. When it's charged, what's the next step? Thanks guys.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

test to see if the fuel pump is getting power.
If its not priming its not getting power.
check your engine grounds

sLyBlAzNbBoI

Okay. And sorry to sound like a rookie, but I've never used a multimeter. How would I go about testing the fuel pump, and about how much voltage am I looking for if the fuel pump is healthy?

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Use google using honda-tech in the search thread when you search.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-test-fuel-pump-2774148/

sLyBlAzNbBoI

I'm still confused though, sorry man. So basically, I should be testing terminal 7 since that's the fuel pump terminal? So basically I'm putting the red probe inside terminal 7 with the main fuel relay unplugged and the key in the 'ON' position? Where would I put the black probe?

Former User

1) Jump terminal 1 to 7 in the unplugged main relay connector.

2) Remove the rear seat and the access panel. Unplug the fuel pump connector.

3) Measure voltage at the Yel/Grn wire terminal in the fuel pump connector using the Blk wire terminal as ground. Repeat the test using the metal body as ground.

sLyBlAzNbBoI

Thanks man. I assume my key should be in the 'ON' position when doing step 3 as well? And will my battery need to be fully charged to do step 3, or could I possibly do this while my friend is giving me a battery jump? And last question, how many volts should the multimeter read if the fuel pump's healthy?

Former User

Key can be off because terminal 1 gets voltage directly from the battery.

The battery should be charged or jumped.

The voltage should be within a volt of voltage measured across the two battery posts.

sLyBlAzNbBoI

Okay, I plan to do the test after class tomorrow. One more question, if the fuel pump checks out healthy and my ECU is the culprit, would it be safe to plug in a d-series OBD1 ECU for the sole purpose of seeing if the fuel pump will prime?

teamXteg

a buddy and myself had the same thing happen man. i took the main relay out and checked the solder points on the inside of the plastic cover, i believe one or two were broke so i jus re soldered them and it started right up. worth a quick look. hope u get it fixed man!