tried but no responses
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tried but no responses
ive posted it the audio/video forums already and no ones answered for the past three days...since this is the fastest moving one i thought i might give it a shot...so my question is that i have a solo baric L5 and i wanted to know what kind of amp cheap/quality would be best for it?
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The L5 is the model below the L7 right? If you just have one sub, grab up a nice 2 channel amp that you can bridge for maximum output. Unless you have a DVC sub then a mono amp will be fine. Sony actually makes pretty good amps, you can get them on Ebay cheap. Older Rockford amps, older Soundstream...even Kicker makes strong amps. There's so many brands it'd be impossible to list them all.
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The L5 is just the newer version of the round Solobaric sub, right? Get an L7, slap a d2 on the muffa and deafen yourself to your hearts content! Nah, but really, any decent amp by Rockford/Alpine/Soundstream/Zapco/Arc/Sony/Kicker/Audiobahn/MTX/JBL/Kenwood/PG/Pioneer/Clarion.......
I mean, do some research, try http://www.icixsound.com, http://www.soundillusions.net, http://www.sounddomain.com, http://www.elitecaraudio.com.
http://www.google.com
I mean, do some research, try http://www.icixsound.com, http://www.soundillusions.net, http://www.sounddomain.com, http://www.elitecaraudio.com.
http://www.google.com
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Re: tried but no responses (Son99ek)
Go for a hi-power class A. Its better to drive a hot amp with low input than over load the input stage on a lower power amp. Your more likely to blow a speaker due to clipping by overloading the amp than melting a speaker with too much power. Look for low THD total harmonic distortion and a smooth power amp transfer curve on spec sheets.
Get good cables but dont waste your money on Monster crap.
Get good cables but dont waste your money on Monster crap.
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Re: tried but no responses (f1z1c)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f1z1c »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go for a hi-power class A. Its better to drive a hot amp with low input than over load the input stage on a lower power amp. Your more likely to blow a speaker due to clipping by overloading the amp than melting a speaker with too much power. Look for low THD total harmonic distortion and a smooth power amp transfer curve on spec sheets.
Get good cables but dont waste your money on Monster crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
All true...but unfortunatly probalby lost on the poster, as he doesn't even know what bridging the amp is...
Bridging is when you "sum" the power of 2 channels into one channel. Here's a simple lesson: You may have noticed when reading specs of amps that many amps rated at say, 2 X 50 watts @ 4 ohms will actually put out 2 X 100 @ 2 ohms. Ohms is the resistance of the speaker to the current. When a speaker, or the combination of more than one speaker, has less resistance to current, the amp is able to increase it's power output. However when you have only one speaker with 4 ohm rating, you will only get 50 watts if you hooked it up to one channel. No good! BRIDGING has the effect of adding the 2 channels of power together, but it puts out the same total output at 4 ohms as the stereo mode does at 2 ohms. Thus, instead of running 50 watts into a speaker, you now have all 200 watts going to it.
A mono amp is designed just for subs, but works on the same principle...if you have only one 4 ohm sub it will put out whatever advertised watt value it states, so you would have to buy one that is 1 X 200 watts @ 4 ohms to get as much power as the one above. It would likely cost more.
these are general principles, the math could be different for any given amp but you get the idea.
Get good cables but dont waste your money on Monster crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
All true...but unfortunatly probalby lost on the poster, as he doesn't even know what bridging the amp is...
Bridging is when you "sum" the power of 2 channels into one channel. Here's a simple lesson: You may have noticed when reading specs of amps that many amps rated at say, 2 X 50 watts @ 4 ohms will actually put out 2 X 100 @ 2 ohms. Ohms is the resistance of the speaker to the current. When a speaker, or the combination of more than one speaker, has less resistance to current, the amp is able to increase it's power output. However when you have only one speaker with 4 ohm rating, you will only get 50 watts if you hooked it up to one channel. No good! BRIDGING has the effect of adding the 2 channels of power together, but it puts out the same total output at 4 ohms as the stereo mode does at 2 ohms. Thus, instead of running 50 watts into a speaker, you now have all 200 watts going to it.
A mono amp is designed just for subs, but works on the same principle...if you have only one 4 ohm sub it will put out whatever advertised watt value it states, so you would have to buy one that is 1 X 200 watts @ 4 ohms to get as much power as the one above. It would likely cost more.
these are general principles, the math could be different for any given amp but you get the idea.
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Re: tried but no responses (klungemonger)
wow. thnx for the info everyone...sorry this isnt in the audio/video forum. but the rest of the honda forums no one responds...thnx again
#10
Re: tried but no responses (Son99ek)
that speaker will hit really good on a low power amp 150 to 250 will work really good i had 2 of them on a mtx 152 bridged an they work jus fine
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Re: tried but no responses (highroller420l)
Solo baric L5 or the L7's...you're gonna have a hard time blowing one of these...unless you're really clueless when it comes to basic electronics. If you don't know what you're doing, leave it to a pro Better paying to get it done right the first time, then blowing your equipment, replacing that and THEN paying to get it done right...just my .02.
#12
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performance teknique. cheap, and good. i had one powering a 12" l7 solobaric and mb quart mids. sounded very nice. i think they go for 100 bucks for those amps
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