fgb000

Hello,
My manual gearbox needs footsteps on the clutch pedal so I can change gears smoothly without scratching or grinding.
If I go straight from one gear to another It scratches the gearbox, and the gear's teeth. I cannot just step down the pedal once and go from onde gear to another freely and smoothly.

Wonabe

Change the clutch master and slave cylinders. Not one or the other, go ahead and do both at the same time.

fgb000

Ok. Im having a hard time trying to find a brand new and good quality cilynder, for both Master and slave. The only Brand that seems to be less worst is the Exedy one. But even this one is not a good quality compared to an OEM option, a japanese one.

Could the Master and ir slave cilynder be repaired with this kit:
https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/...e-1516-pol-_JM

They sell It according to inches size.
there is 7/8, 15/16, 3/4...
How can i tell How many inches are mine cilynders?
1998 ej8 sedan
Thanks.

fgb000

Pretty please

crazyhorse2011

i put in a parts store brand one in my civic when it blew. took a couple hours to do both cylinders and bleed the system. drove it for 10,000 miles with no issues and sold the car with it working. i wouldn't worry about going top shelf on these

tony_2018

Go buy oem

crazyhorse2011

on a 25 year old clapped out bucket? Why?

NVturbo

you should ask yourself that same question with your ghetto rigged rides

fgb000

Hi, How many bottles of Honda dot3 3 Will O need to fill up the system, after overhaul, changing both cylinders?
The bottle of dot3 sold on Honda dealers next to me here holds 0,374068 us quarts, that is 354 mililiters.
How many bottles Will I need?
Thanks.

crazyhorse2011

just get a couple bottles. Cant be that expensive. If you have 2nd grade math skills you should easily be able to figure out how many bottles are necessary. Then again, judging by your typing skills....

anyway, just get 2x what is necessary, youll have to waste some out flushing the system anyway

fgb000

Does anybody have a better or more precise answer please?

crazyhorse2011

look bud its not rocket science. A half gallin of dot 3 is what, like 10 bucks? Get one of those and be done with it. More than enough for ten clutch hydraulic replacements right there

Jesse Lamp Jr.

Look having some DOT3 brake fluid laying around isnt a bad idea. You never know when you are going to need it again. You could fix this problem and have your wheel cylinders give out next week. Just get what the man says or get a little bit and have to walk yourself to the store to get more when you didnt get enough

civic402lx

https://www.exedyusa.com/products/sp...acement-parts/
plug in your car info.. exedy orm made master and slave.
buy both master and slave for less then 40shipped
go to honda dealer buy 2 bottles of dot 3. Extra bottle is there just in case. Spare is good to have.
you will end up using up to 1/2 a bottle for the bleeding process.

dont make it harder then it is.
suction out old fluid from reservoir or
drain fluid at slave bleed nipple
remove old master and slave
line up old master and new, make sure they are the same length
install
bleed

fgb000

Thank you very much!

Just a question, shouldn' I bleed the system before installing the new cylinders?
Thanks.

civic402lx

No. Bleed it all at one time.

fgb000

I will bleed/ change the hole dot3 fluid inside the clutch system, Thats why Im asking, If Its better to bleed it all before replacing both cylinders, in a way that the old fluid will not touch my brand new cylinders.

civic402lx

If you want to waste your time and fluid, then by all mean, do it your way. If that makes you feel better then proceed. I see no reason to do it beforehand.
once you drain the old fluid there will be nothing but air in the line. So why would you bleed new fluid first, then go back and drain again, then remove old parts, just then to bleed the system another time after new parts are in.

fgb000

Thanks for explaining this to me.

what should be the diameter of the hose hole for a perfect fit on the bleeding screw?

demon6666699999

Bleed It in to a container, as long as you don't release the pedal while the bleeder is open it doesn't matter. Plus like civic402lx said your wasting your time and money, replace the parts and bleed once. Your over thinking it. You Maybe need two small containers of brake fluid or one large and have extra which is good to have around.

demon6666699999

If your using a vacuum pump to bleed it. which i doubt you are. Don't pump it with the bleeder open. When you get a firm pedal, your done. No matter what method. You will replace the little fluid the system holds by bleeding it, If your already replacing both cylinders .After you bleed the system then you know you have new fluid which would cause them to fail. The only thing to worry about next would be a fluid leak from the lines through the rust or seals at both cylinders which you would see and you should be able to see already. Plus you would of already had a low fluid level which you haven't mentioned.

fgb000

Hi, I've changed both cylinders and bled the system spending 1 bottle of Honda dot3.
the DIY was rather an easy job to do.
The worst parts were the cotter pin removal from behind the pedal, and placing the slave cylinder inside the release fork's boot.
But after that everything went fine.
I've noticed already that my clutch is smoother of course, and the sqeaking sound dissapeared after i've bled it. Now I think that noise comes from air in the system when pushing pressure on It.
But after all it keeps grinding when I switch gears, the tranny is not smooth like butter.
It may have changed to a little bit more smoother but not how I was expecting It.
My old clutch master cylinder was leaking already with a lot of black "goo"coming out from the pin rod on the pedal, and now this issue is fixed at least.
But I keep feeling that there is not enough pressure pushing the release fork when I push down the clutch pedal, thats and why my "tranny's changing movement is so dificult and "grindy". On this matter the replacement of both cylinders changed It to a little bit more smoother.
Normaly to make the "switching gears movement on tranny" more smoother like butter I need to go back and forth trying to not "touch" the "grindings" along the tranny's path.
Like the manual tells me to do if I want to switch to reverse I should go to 5th first then come straigth down to the reverse gear.
Im not telling that I would allways need to do this kind of movement on the tranny to make the "path" clear and without grinding anything everytime I change gears. What Im trying to is to fix this and make this tranny relyable so i can think about something else when switching gears : /
I want to feel that like in my Civic '95 where vou can move the tranny from any gear to any gear freely , and It would feel like It the tranny is fixed on a "bucket of butter" down below.

There you can step down the clutch and "come with the tranny from the 5th to 1st without "grinding" or touching any "side walls" or anything along the path.
Its like if there the release fork is very well pushed down, giving me a "clear tranny's path movement". Free, fast, and smooth "stick on butter" movement I have on this '95 tranny when I switch gear. It allways go to a "right destination" without touch any iron stuff along the way.