Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
#1
Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
I have a 98 Civic LX and I am completely new to swaps, I have never done one and was wondering how difficult they are. I have the tools, and I've fixed many things on her, but just recently I've started looking at getting a new transmission, because its getting harder to shift. If I get a new transmission would it be wise of me to just bite the bullet and get a new engine, too, or should I put that off until absolutely necessary, or even just rebuild it? It has 211k on it and it's only been driven hard five or six times for a few minutes tops (was my mom's from new). I've been looking at some threads and some talk about buying new ECUs and wiring harnesses...
ANY insight would be much appreciated from this NOOB.
If I'm in the completely wrong place, I'm sorry, will someone link to me where I should be?
Thanks!
ANY insight would be much appreciated from this NOOB.
If I'm in the completely wrong place, I'm sorry, will someone link to me where I should be?
Thanks!
#2
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap Help
At 211k I wouldn't be in a rush to get a new engine. That's not bad for a Honda. My 98 civic ex had 350k and I kept up with oil changes/maintenance and she ever failed me(I beat on her at least 3 times a week )
Just change your transmission if necessary, maybe get a new clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing since you'll have the transmission out. And give her a tune up/oil change.
Just change your transmission if necessary, maybe get a new clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing since you'll have the transmission out. And give her a tune up/oil change.
#6
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap Help
I'd buy tranny from Craigslist. Got mine for $100 twice n it was good as butter.
Got a nicee racing clutch for $35 with pressure plate there too. So deff check out craiga. Throw out bearing, of you buy new clutch it should have it. Auto parts stores have it too.
Got a nicee racing clutch for $35 with pressure plate there too. So deff check out craiga. Throw out bearing, of you buy new clutch it should have it. Auto parts stores have it too.
#7
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap Help
hmm seems strange that considering your mother owned this vehicle and it's only at 211k, unless either of you can't drive or your mom is Al Unser JR, this could be the onset of clutch problems
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#8
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap Help
I'll probably change everything you suggested. Have you changed those parts, and if so, how much should I expect to spend on parts? Should I be able to drop the transmission fairly easily, I only have jack stands...but I'm looking into a lift...
On where's a good place to get parts?
On where's a good place to get parts?
#9
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap Help
Well my mom taught my sister and I, and I taught my fiance, so there's probably a decent amount of wear just in those moments of learning, god knows my sister still can't drive a stick...it took my fiance a while to get the hang of it, too...
#10
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap Help
Also, should I be able to do this work with just the car on jackstands or do I need to do it some other way?
#11
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
When it comes to the clutch dept you are better off buying new. Problem is someone could have beaten the **** out of a clutch one time and cracked it, and if you don't know what you are looking for, it will chatter...
#12
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Re: Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
You should buy yourself a new clutch, not used. Exedy OEM clutch kits are like $120-150 new on amazon. Also, resurfacing your flywheel or getting a new one is a must. Resurfacing costs about $60 depending on where you are or a remanufactured one is about $100 max with core. Lightweight ones are like $150-200.
Depending on where you are, if you want to stick with your same engine, you can get used D-series engines from JDM engine importers for under $600 with low miles and a warranty.
Depending on where you are, if you want to stick with your same engine, you can get used D-series engines from JDM engine importers for under $600 with low miles and a warranty.
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
ive seen a tranny changed via a lawn mower as a way of moving it.....drop it on the mower, bungee strap her down, roll her out.
the honda trans only weighs 40-50lbs, and I wouldn't trust my own mower to do it, but I have seen it done.
the honda trans only weighs 40-50lbs, and I wouldn't trust my own mower to do it, but I have seen it done.
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Re: Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
i assume your syncros are on the way out, maybe try a fluid change 1st, its easy to do. my tranny shifts fine, i just did my fluid on saturday, but my throw out bearing and input shaft are on the way out.
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Re: Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
Nooga the work is not that hard I have done it with both a lift and on Jack stands.
the only Big deal with the lift is you can stand up when your under the car.
as far as i can tell your NOT looking for a Track car here but rather a Point car.(as in this car get me from Point to Point). if that's the case I would suggest you first flush and refill the trans use OEM honda MTF when you refill it.
as for flushing it i'll suggest you use the Honda Dealer Addendum for flushing a MT civic with out the use of a Power flusher.
this means pulling the VSS out of the top of the Trans and adding 1 QT of ATF (the mechanic said it didn't have to be Honda ATF decron iii was fine) then drive the car about 5 miles drain and fill Honda MTF.
this will clean any gummy oil and suspend any metal particals in the oil when you drain it as ATF is mostly Detergents.
I have owened and or fixed well over 50 civics that had Hard Shifting problems this way.
most of the time nobody changes there MTF when they should it has like a 60K interval to get changed and most change it only when it leaks out from ether sevice work (new clutch or CV shafts) or from a leaking seal. This lets the syncros clog with gunk and makes shifting harder.
as far as the clutch goes pull the rubber boot off the clutch slave and see it the release arm is close to the Slave
clutch arm =/|\ Slave cylinder = ---****
(/---****) this is a rough idea of a New clutch
( |--****) this is a rough idea of a Normal used but still good clutch
( \-****) this is a rough idea of a worn out or Failed clutch
as for as the motor if your happy with were it's at IE has power, doesn't leak 3 qt a month and your getting >25 MPG don't change it. if it is gone to hell it is alot ez'er to do a motor and trans at the same time then to do ether one alone that way your not trying to fit the trans to the engine in a small area.
My first honda was a one owner 89 acura integra with 386K on it and i drove it till it had 460K+ when i sold it and the guy that still has it said it has almost 600K and still running strong.
the only Big deal with the lift is you can stand up when your under the car.
as far as i can tell your NOT looking for a Track car here but rather a Point car.(as in this car get me from Point to Point). if that's the case I would suggest you first flush and refill the trans use OEM honda MTF when you refill it.
as for flushing it i'll suggest you use the Honda Dealer Addendum for flushing a MT civic with out the use of a Power flusher.
this means pulling the VSS out of the top of the Trans and adding 1 QT of ATF (the mechanic said it didn't have to be Honda ATF decron iii was fine) then drive the car about 5 miles drain and fill Honda MTF.
this will clean any gummy oil and suspend any metal particals in the oil when you drain it as ATF is mostly Detergents.
I have owened and or fixed well over 50 civics that had Hard Shifting problems this way.
most of the time nobody changes there MTF when they should it has like a 60K interval to get changed and most change it only when it leaks out from ether sevice work (new clutch or CV shafts) or from a leaking seal. This lets the syncros clog with gunk and makes shifting harder.
as far as the clutch goes pull the rubber boot off the clutch slave and see it the release arm is close to the Slave
clutch arm =/|\ Slave cylinder = ---****
(/---****) this is a rough idea of a New clutch
( |--****) this is a rough idea of a Normal used but still good clutch
( \-****) this is a rough idea of a worn out or Failed clutch
as for as the motor if your happy with were it's at IE has power, doesn't leak 3 qt a month and your getting >25 MPG don't change it. if it is gone to hell it is alot ez'er to do a motor and trans at the same time then to do ether one alone that way your not trying to fit the trans to the engine in a small area.
My first honda was a one owner 89 acura integra with 386K on it and i drove it till it had 460K+ when i sold it and the guy that still has it said it has almost 600K and still running strong.
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
Just drop it on an old piece of carpet and drag it out.
#17
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
You should buy yourself a new clutch, not used. Exedy OEM clutch kits are like $120-150 new on amazon. Also, resurfacing your flywheel or getting a new one is a must. Resurfacing costs about $60 depending on where you are or a remanufactured one is about $100 max with core. Lightweight ones are like $150-200.
Depending on where you are, if you want to stick with your same engine, you can get used D-series engines from JDM engine importers for under $600 with low miles and a warranty.
Depending on where you are, if you want to stick with your same engine, you can get used D-series engines from JDM engine importers for under $600 with low miles and a warranty.
Thanks for your help!
#18
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
Nooga the work is not that hard I have done it with both a lift and on Jack stands.
the only Big deal with the lift is you can stand up when your under the car.
as far as i can tell your NOT looking for a Track car here but rather a Point car.(as in this car get me from Point to Point). if that's the case I would suggest you first flush and refill the trans use OEM honda MTF when you refill it.
as for flushing it i'll suggest you use the Honda Dealer Addendum for flushing a MT civic with out the use of a Power flusher.
this means pulling the VSS out of the top of the Trans and adding 1 QT of ATF (the mechanic said it didn't have to be Honda ATF decron iii was fine) then drive the car about 5 miles drain and fill Honda MTF.
this will clean any gummy oil and suspend any metal particals in the oil when you drain it as ATF is mostly Detergents.
I have owened and or fixed well over 50 civics that had Hard Shifting problems this way.
most of the time nobody changes there MTF when they should it has like a 60K interval to get changed and most change it only when it leaks out from ether sevice work (new clutch or CV shafts) or from a leaking seal. This lets the syncros clog with gunk and makes shifting harder.
as far as the clutch goes pull the rubber boot off the clutch slave and see it the release arm is close to the Slave
clutch arm =/|\ Slave cylinder = ---****
(/---****) this is a rough idea of a New clutch
( |--****) this is a rough idea of a Normal used but still good clutch
( \-****) this is a rough idea of a worn out or Failed clutch
as for as the motor if your happy with were it's at IE has power, doesn't leak 3 qt a month and your getting >25 MPG don't change it. if it is gone to hell it is alot ez'er to do a motor and trans at the same time then to do ether one alone that way your not trying to fit the trans to the engine in a small area.
My first honda was a one owner 89 acura integra with 386K on it and i drove it till it had 460K+ when i sold it and the guy that still has it said it has almost 600K and still running strong.
the only Big deal with the lift is you can stand up when your under the car.
as far as i can tell your NOT looking for a Track car here but rather a Point car.(as in this car get me from Point to Point). if that's the case I would suggest you first flush and refill the trans use OEM honda MTF when you refill it.
as for flushing it i'll suggest you use the Honda Dealer Addendum for flushing a MT civic with out the use of a Power flusher.
this means pulling the VSS out of the top of the Trans and adding 1 QT of ATF (the mechanic said it didn't have to be Honda ATF decron iii was fine) then drive the car about 5 miles drain and fill Honda MTF.
this will clean any gummy oil and suspend any metal particals in the oil when you drain it as ATF is mostly Detergents.
I have owened and or fixed well over 50 civics that had Hard Shifting problems this way.
most of the time nobody changes there MTF when they should it has like a 60K interval to get changed and most change it only when it leaks out from ether sevice work (new clutch or CV shafts) or from a leaking seal. This lets the syncros clog with gunk and makes shifting harder.
as far as the clutch goes pull the rubber boot off the clutch slave and see it the release arm is close to the Slave
clutch arm =/|\ Slave cylinder = ---****
(/---****) this is a rough idea of a New clutch
( |--****) this is a rough idea of a Normal used but still good clutch
( \-****) this is a rough idea of a worn out or Failed clutch
as for as the motor if your happy with were it's at IE has power, doesn't leak 3 qt a month and your getting >25 MPG don't change it. if it is gone to hell it is alot ez'er to do a motor and trans at the same time then to do ether one alone that way your not trying to fit the trans to the engine in a small area.
My first honda was a one owner 89 acura integra with 386K on it and i drove it till it had 460K+ when i sold it and the guy that still has it said it has almost 600K and still running strong.
Thanks for the help on the clutch diagram, took a second for me to figure it out, but it makes a lot of sense!
#20
#22
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
^^^ The two above me are the dumbest things to say unless they are needed at that time. HE is talking in the area of the transmission so if there is nothing wrong with the axles why replace them. Unless the motor mounts are torn thats a dumb waste, why replace the hoses.... you can do that anytime...
While your under there make sure you get a release bearing, clean and grease the throw out arm, replace the rear main seal, axle seals replace, Oil pan gasket if the rear main is bolted to it
While your under there make sure you get a release bearing, clean and grease the throw out arm, replace the rear main seal, axle seals replace, Oil pan gasket if the rear main is bolted to it
#24
Re: Transmission and Engine Swap - how difficult?
Thats dumb, just move on... That would infact complicate the clutch job.. I agree in keeping up in timming belts, but removing the motor mount that is holding up the engine (yes you can "support" it but at that stage you might as well just pull the whole motor and trans) is infact a horrable idea.