cmerce

I've got a b16a2 eg hatch that has been sitting for a few months and now it won't start. I've done all sorts of troubleshooting and I'm still having no luck.

So the starter will turn the engine over and it does nothing, no sputtering or firing of any sort. I just replaced the distributor with a new one and I've confirmed that the spark plugs are making spark.

I can hear the fuel pump prime and I've sprayed starter fluid in the intake and still no firing. The main relay has recently been replaced and there are no blown fuses.

Maybe it could be a weak spark that I'm seeing coming out of the spark plugs. I just don't know cause it seems like with the spark and starting fluid something should happen.

Summary-

eg/ B16a2

SPARK
-New distributor installed (first thing I replaced)
-Verified distributor and wires working with spark plug testing light
-New NGK iridium spark plugs installed
-Rotor pointing to cyl #1 at TDC
-Will redo visual spark inspection to see white/blue color and intensity

FUEL
-Newer fuel pump
-I can hear the pump prime in ignition II
-Smell of gas coming from exhaust on turn over
-Spark plugs are wet with gas
-Tried starting fluid in the intake manifold and cylinder directly to eliminate the variable

TIMING
-Took it to TDC and verified cam gear arrows
-I'm going to double check this just incase. There is a leaky valve cover gasket that could have my belt oily and likely to skip a tooth.

COMPRESSION
-Needs testing

ELECTRONICS
-Tried another ECU
-Have a new master relay installed
-Replaced all ground wires
-Inspected engine bay wire harness

Former User

Any CEL codes?

Click the Check Spark link in my signature to learn how to check for spark. Spark should be bright white at all four plugs.

If there's no spark:

1) Check whether battery voltage reaches the coil and igniter unit inside the distributor on the Blk/Yel wire.

2) Check whether the timing belt snapped.

3) Resistance test the coil.

4) Have an auto parts store test the ICM/igniter unit.

cmerce

No CEL which is wierd too.

I just replaced the distributor last night with a new one.

I took out a spark plug and grounded the threads to the ground wire on the valve cover while the engine was being turned over. There was a blueish spark being emitted from it.

I could smell gas/starting fluid in the combustion chamber while the spark plug was out.

Would a coroded ground wire cause this type of thing to happen?

So frusterating...

Former User

Spark should be bright white. Test the coil.

cmerce

Thanks for the replies, you are a gentleman and a scholar!

-The coil is good, also I've checked for spark with a spark plug tester and verified that the wires and distributor are good. I replaced the spark plugs to be safe also. The spark is happening I've grounded the plug and seen it on the plug.

-I verified TDC and the distributor firing on cylinder #1, because I replaced the distributor at the beginning of all this.

-All engine bay wiring checks out okay, no frayed wires or broken connectors.

-Fuel is fine, I hear the fuel pump priming and have eliminated it being broken by adding plenty of starting fluid to the intake and cylinders directly, still no start.

-I replaced all the ground wires in the engine bay- tranny/valve cover/thermostat/battery.

-I checked all fuses and even swapped in a replacement ECU.

-It turns over but nothing happens. No spuddering, attempting to fire, no nothing...

It just sat for a few months and now it's possessed. What's funny is I hesitate to take it to a mechanic because they will take 12 hours to try all the things I've already done to troubleshoot. Is there some sort of Honda secret I don't know about. I'm already starting to rip my hair out!

Former User

Does the CEL work?

If you have spark and fuel and the mechanical timing is good, then compression test the cylinders.

Below is the correct firing order of the plug wires on the distributor cap. The cylinders are numbered 4-3-2-1 as you go from the distributor to the timing belt.

cmerce

I just checked the spark plug wiring and they are in the right firing order. The gauge cluster CEL has always worked in the past. It's still lighting up.

Former User

If you have spark and fuel and the mechanical timing is good, then compression test the cylinders. Click the link in my signature.

The mechanical timing should look like this:

cmerce

There's no upper timing belt cover on the engine so I can see the mechanical timing is correct, I can see the timing gears and verified TDC.

When cranking the engine by the 19mm on the crank pulley I can feel the compression building and I don't think all the rings would go bad when this thing ran just a few months ago.

What type of weird problem could this be?

Former User

^This doesn't qualify as a proper compression test. You need to do the test correctly. Bad rings are only one cause for low compression.

Was spark at the plugs bright white or blue as you mentioned earlier?

PyroProblem

If it was running fine before and nothing else has changed, try draining the tank and putting fresh gas in it...

ricky00

check fuel pressure.. just because u can hear the fuel relay doesnt mean its gonna work.. this happen to my buddy when when swap his car and the motor wont turn over.. finally had fuel pressure to check and turn out his fuel pump was dead

PyroProblem

He said he hears the pump prime, so the pump appears to be working...
OP- try this. Disconnect the fuel return line at the fuel rail. Get a clean glass jar and have someone turn the key on while you collect a fuel sample...Does it look/smell normal? Doesnt smell "stale"?
Tell us what has changed from when the car was running until now...

cmerce

Thanks for the replies guys. Between all the things I'm trying and you guys are suggesting there has to be a solution somewhere.

About a 9 months ago my car was running fine as my daily driver until the clutch master cylinder blew out. That's why it sat for so many months. Just recently I replaced the clutch cylinder, went to start it up and at first it would puff, and cough and run for three seconds very roughly. Now it doesn't even fire or do anything when it's turned over.

Summary-

eg/ B16a2

SPARK
-New distributor installed (first thing I replaced)
-Verified distributor and wires working with spark plug testing light
-New NGK iridium spark plugs installed
-Rotor pointing to cyl #1 at TDC
-Will redo visual spark inspection to see white/blue color and intensity

FUEL
-Newer fuel pump
-I can hear the pump prime in ignition II
-Smell of gas coming from exhaust on turn over
-Spark plugs are wet with gas
-Tried starting fluid in the intake manifold and cylinder directly to eliminate the variable

TIMING
-Took it to TDC and verified cam gear arrows
-I'm going to double check this just incase. There is a leaky valve cover gasket that could have my belt oily and likely to skip a tooth.

COMPRESSION
-Needs testing

ELECTRONICS
-Tried another ECU
-Have a new master relay installed
-Replaced all ground wires
-Inspected engine bay wire harness

So that's it, I'll be picking up a Harbor Freight compression testing tool and see what she's got. It's just wierd that having the car sit would mess with the compression or timing after it used to run great with the same settings.

PyroProblem

9 Months?!
Yeah Id say bad gas for sure!
Get some fresh plugs (cause the current ones are probably fouled out and old)
Drain the old gas and re-fill with fresh new gas...Im 99% sure this is your problem.
Think about lawnmowers and how their gas "spoils" over time. Same goes for your car!

v8killaz

do you smell the gas in the spark plugs. check the sparkplugs and see if their wet. may not even be igniting the fuel

i had a similar problem but car never sat. weak spark and car would not start changed dizzy started right up