burningwrek

so I advanced my timing again today. I jumped the service connector with a paper clip. the jump was good as my check engine light began flashing codes. I advanced my cam gear to 5 degrees and broke out the timing light. after advancing the ignition a few degrees, I took the car out for a test drive. I noticed a lil more pep down low right off the start, but after a few minutes, I could tell it was gone. so I get back in the driveway, hook the timing light back up, and lo and behold the timing is back to stock. why? I jump the service connector and everything. i need help. thanks guys.

btw, the car is a 98 ex with an aem cam gear and a zex camshaft.

hatchling37

I would think that you should take care of the CEL's before you go attempting to mess up your timing. Maybe the ECU is retarding your ignition while it's in limp mode (if there is one on SOHC's)

burningwrek

well the cels are for my catalytic converter

Deemeetree

Indeed. Just as hatchling37 said, it's probably in limp mode since you are throwing a code and placing your timing back to factory spec. Get that CEL fixed and THEN fix your timing.

I'm not throwing any codes but I do need to set my timing to spec. Been advanced for some time now and I'm pinging. I don't have a timing light nor know anyone who has one. Everytime I go to a mechanic just so I can let them set my timing, they always tell me I dont need to jump my connector. They set it and it goes back to where it was. ******* morons. Thank god I don't pay them ****.

hatchling37

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> they always tell me I dont need to jump my connector. They set it and it goes back to where it was. ******* morons. Thank god I don't pay them ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, no joke, they sound like idiots

Deemeetree

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchling37 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, no joke, they sound like idiots</TD></TR></TABLE>

I seriously need to buy me a timing light. But I do want one with a built-in digital tachometer to set my idle aswell. But those cost around $125. Working Part-Time at Sears doesn't help much. EVERY time they do it, goes back to where it was. Oh well, got to save and wait I guess. Pinging does suck though. 3,000-4,000 rpm straight pinging and spark plugs looking very worn already even though they are only 6,000 miles old.

burningwrek

ok so I fixed the CEL. I had to get a new o2 sensor. but now, since the cel is fixed, I can't advance the timing. Since I was trying to advance the timing with the CEL on, my distributor is turned as far advanced as it will go, but the engine is at stock timing.

so my question is:
How can I change the position of my distributor without retarding my timing?

burningwrek

help!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by burningwrek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so I fixed the CEL. I had to get a new o2 sensor. but now, since the cel is fixed, I can't advance the timing. Since I was trying to advance the timing with the CEL on, my distributor is turned as far advanced as it will go, but the engine is at stock timing.

so my question is:
How can I change the position of my distributor without retarding my timing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

burningwrek

bump

burningwrek

ok so I fixed the CEL. I had to get a new o2 sensor. but now, since the cel is fixed, I can't advance the timing. Since I was trying to advance the timing with the CEL on, my distributor is turned as far advanced as it will go, but the engine is at stock timing.
so my question is:
How can I change the position of my distributor without retarding my timing?

burningwrek

bump

burningwrek

someone help

hatchling37

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by burningwrek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can I change the position of my distributor without retarding my timing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can't. What are you attempting to time your motor to?

burningwrek

well no matter what I do, inluding jumping the service connector, my timing will NOT stay advanced. After I've advanced my timing, by the time I get down the block I can already tell that its back to stock. So I figured, well if it will go back to stock after I advance it, it will go back to stock after I retard it. Well, it wont. If I retard the timing, it stays retarded, but it won't stay advanced . I'm getting fed up with it. So, I've tried advancing my timing so many times that my distributor is turned as far as it will go. My distributor is turned as if my timing is advanced, but its actually at stock timing. I wish I had a rocket launcher right now...

WAFFLES

There really is no point in playing with the timing unless you are on the dyno. You could be losing power with too much advance. BTW, I've never jumped the service connector while adjusting timing and mine has not moved.

If you ecu is good, throwing no codes, then it should not be pulling timing back unless you are advancing it too much. The ecu would pull timing back, however, I believe it will throw a knock code if it does so.

Is your cam gear setting staying? If the cam slips it can change timing.

burningwrek

my cam gear is sticking solid, so no slippage there. I do have a code 67 which is for my catalytic converter. I do have a hi flow cat, but its never thrown a code for it since I got it months ago. I first had 3 CEL's and I changed the o2 sensor which cleared 2 of the codes. well the CEL was off so I tried adjusting the timing but then the code 67 came on again. so I guess the code has something to do with my timing not staying advanced.

I was advancing my timing with a timing light so its not light I was just randomly spinning the dizzy. well I'm selling my carbon fiber hood and my vafc so I can get a chipped obd1 ecu, so hopefully that'll clear that code 67 and fix my beef with obd2.

<U>so how do I get the dizzy back to stock position while still keeping the timing stock?</U>

WAFFLES

just rotate the distributor until you get 16degrees.

burningwrek

have you not been reading? its at 16 degrees right now, even though the distributor is turned as if the ignition is advanced.

Archidictus

You know what the problem is? You're retarded and don't know how to work on cars. Obviously you've done/are doing something horribly wrong and that's why your car is having this issue. Take it to someone who knows wtf they're doing and stop ******* with your ignition system before you break it. Your SOHC motor isn't going to gain a lot of power by advancing the timing anyway, so just leave well enough alone, get someone to fix it and get a mod that'll actually do something.

Jesus Christ: don't mess with things you don't know how to fix.

burningwrek

if you don't have something constructive to add, dont post. obviously you dont know anything about the question I'm asking so rather than force you to admit that, I'll just ask that you move your hands slowly away from the keyboard, get up, and walk away.

and just for your info, the difference with the timing advance was noticeable enough for me to feel on the butt dyno, so its worth the effort in my opinion.

so anyone feel like helping rather than showing their butt like Ridilictus?

89s1

yeah i hear the butt dyno is accurate to 1/10th of a horsepower....

thats why ricers feel their cars get faster with higher octane fuel in the tank.

that low end increase you felt probably impacted the high end in a negative way, if fact i'm almost certain... but anyways... don't listen to the pro's, they are all retards anyways

hatchling37

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by burningwrek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but then the code 67 came on again. so I guess the code has something to do with my timing not staying advanced.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go back and read through this thread again. You're still throwing codes. Your ECU is automatically retarding the ignition to avoid knock.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by burningwrek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so anyone feel like helping rather than showing their butt like Ridilictus?</TD></TR></TABLE>
uuhhhhhh....right.......

burningwrek

well the code was off for an entire day, which is why I again attempted to advance the timing. I'm going to wait to mess with it again until I get the OBD1 ecu. and I appreciate the guys who were jerks while attempting to answer my questions, it made it interesting.

WAFFLES

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by burningwrek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you not been reading? its at 16 degrees right now, even though the distributor is turned as if the ignition is advanced.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I have been reading. I was answering your question. Don't get smart, because nowhere did you say your timing was at exactly 16degrees. You simply said it was retarding after you would drive it. You said it went back to stock, and stock is not always exactly at 16. If you check a helms it will give a range, like 14-16degrees.

Besides, who advances a cam 5 degrees without checking things first? Did you check the ignition timing after every degree advance you made with the cam?

Try this: Set your cam back to "zero". Play with timing from there. I'm willing to bet your ecu is pulling timing out since you (A)added 5degrees to the cam, and (B) fully advanced the distributor.

No one would give you **** if you would logically do things on your car. But this is to be expected from someone who asks how to install a FPR.

burningwrek

I only ask questions about installing things that come with no instructions. I bet you're the guy who when undertaking a new project first tosses the instructions out the window, while mumbling, "@#$#'n instructions...".

and people shouldn't give me crap on here anyways, as it is in no way mandatory for you to post on here. if you think I'm a complete moron, dont post. I'm not asking the douche bags out there for help, I'm asking the people who want to take time to help. spare the attitude.