nonvtec92

Hey everyone.
I've got a d16z6 and it still isn't running right. I replaced the wp and removed the timing belt. Installed it, and it's PERFECTLY aligned with the markers. Cam and crank.

I didn't set the motor to TDC when I removed it so i'm not sure how it was set prior but here's what's going on.

Like I said; everythings lined up perfectly. I've quadrouple checked it.
On heavy load (Low RPM; high gear) i'm hearing pinging. I think it's detonation...
I'm also getting a bit of smoke once the car is warmed up.

What would happen if I moved the timing belt back a tooth? If I DID would the motor even run? lol Thanks everyone.

nonvtec92

I've also got another question.

My car is overheating off and on.
How often should a fan come on? It was cold tonight... 45degrees and I sat out there with my rad cap off running the car waiting and waiting for the fan to kick on but it never did. I was wanting to make sure I didn't have air in my system. Car ran for over an hour. Also the lower rad hose never heated up. Temp gauge never hit the coolant temp icon (meaning it sat below 1/2 way) the entire time.
Also, air bubbles came up the entire time as well. They never would disappear.

After an hour of waiting, I got tired put on the rad cap and drove the car for about 1/2 hour. No problems. Lower hose still never got hot. Fan never came on... Is this normal?

Thanks!

EGhatch87

use a timing light to check the timing marks on the crank pulley...

94hatchling

Well if all your timing marks on the cam gears are set to TDC and so is the crank, then your timing is on. ALSO, make sure you're not 180 degrees out. It will still run even if the timing is off.... just not run right.

As for your cooling issue... The radiator cap needs to be on to really raise temperatures... higher pressure equals higher boiling point.
HOWEVER, if your lower radiator hose is not warm/hot, your thermostat is stuck closed.
The warm coolant isnt circulating past the temp sensor, allowing the fan to come on.

Replace your thermostat. Timing belts should be changed at TDC of cylinder #1. That way you wont have to worry about being 180 degrees out. Good luck!

nonvtec92

Whoah... that blew my mind. I didn't even think about it possibly being 180degrees off. I just lined up the marker on the head of the motor to the bottom. Assumed cylinder 1 was TDC but it COULD have been cylinder 4... I think...

I'll get out there today and spin the head 180 and try that.

Am I crazy? will that change things?

nonvtec92

And about the cooling issue. I thought that the fan probably wouldn't be coming on if the thermostat wasn't opening. I guess the thermostat should fully opened once the car is to operating temperature?

blkegcoupe

Even though you lined up Cylinder 4 instead, Cylinder 1 will also be at TDC.

gsrhatch2356

the car will not run 180 degrees out of time... its like holding open the valves when it is trying to make a compression stroke. just wont work. if it runs but not good then I would assume that it is off by a tooth or so even if you quaduaple checked it. make sure that you arent just looking at the up mark on the cam and you look at the lines that are supposed to line up with the side of the head. and as far as the coolant it sounds like the thermostat is stuck open. also i would be worried that the headgasket is blown if you are getting smoke when it warms up but who knows.

honda.lioness

I would say (1) it is normal but (2) you still are not assured your cooling system is well bled of air. It may be, but the fact is the engine has to heat the coolant to a very high temp to help the air come out, and you did not necessarily get to this temp, due to the ambient temperature being so low.

On two occasions in the last several years, I have timed how long it takes for my rad fan to come on when I am bleeding air from the cooling system. At 64 F ambient temperature, my Civic's 1.5 liter engine needed 36 minutes to come on the first time and then another five minutes to come on the second time. At 84 F, the times were 28 minutes and 31 minutes. So I think what you saw is not necessarily abnormal, given your low ambient temperature.

A few things to check:
OEM thermostat and rad cap? If not, all bets are off.
Did you follow the procedure in the manual to the letter for bleeding the system? E.g. Was the heater control lever being pushed all the way to hottest? Did you also use the bleeder valve for the initial purge?

You may have to live with this until the weather is warmer and you can get the cooling system really hot. The better news is that, assuming your rad cap and thermostat are OEM, then meanwhile you may be fine with the cooler temps. Plus the fact is that some air does naturally bubble up and out of the reservoir tank during normal operations. You want to watch the reservoir tank and make sure that after you have driven the car awhile it is still filled to the max line.

94hatchling

regardless of ambient temperature, i'm can promise you your thermostat is the culprit. dead give away if the upper hose is hot and lower is cold.

nonvtec92

Man... I just put the darn thing in. Is a OEM thermostat that much better then a Stant? Radiator cap as well? Do I need to drive 40miles to the nearest dealership?

lowside67

Sorry to bump a dead thread but I am havin the same problem. It is a brand new stant thermostat that I tested in boiling water first. It is correctly installed. Can anybody link me to the complete bleeding procedure? I bled it as I have known how on other cars and cannot get enough coolant into the motor - bottom hose is empty but rad is full, overflow is full. ARRGH!

Former User

What year?

lowside67

Sorry, I have a 95 Canadian CX (D15B7).

The car was overheating "randomly" after I pushed it at a track event. I decided to flush the coolant and change the thermostat to help alleviate this. Drained from the rad, changed thermostat, filled the overflow, opened bleed screw, cranked the heat, filled the rad, ran the car until it was at full operating temp for about 20 mins. Fan never came on, the rad neck is still full but there is definitely no fluid going through the bottom hose - the top one gets nice and warm and you can feel heat.

Former User

That's the correct bleed procedure, except the fan should come on twice before you are done. During the bleed procedure, you may want to try placing the car on an incline with the front end up to help the bubbles come out. Is the fan working? Otherwise there may be an obstruction or the water pump isn't working.

lowside67

I have not yet seen the fan go on but I ran it for about 20 minutes...

Former User

Does the fan run if you install a jumper wire across the 2P connector of the fan switch located on the thermostat housing?

lowside67

I havent tried yet, just the two externally accessible pins?

Former User

Yeah, disconnect the plug and then jump the wire harness connector. The fan should run continuously when you turn the key to ON(II).

lowside67

Update, the issue seems to be resolved. I think I just didnt let the car get hot enough / run it for long enough last night. I was able to observe the fans going on and off. I closed the rad cap as it didnt appear to need any more fluid (overflow is also just slightly over max so it should have enough in case). To make sure all is good I cracked the bleed screw to make sure just coolant was coming out as opposed to an air/liquid mixture, it seems to be all fluid so for now I think all is well. Also, distinctly different from last night, the bottom hose is hot and feels like it has a good volume of fluid in it.

Thanks for the help.