Timing belt too loose when using a thin headgasket?
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Timing belt too loose when using a thin headgasket?
Im rebuilding my b series this winter and was planning on running a buddy club head gasket. I was recently told that by doing so ill run into problems with keeping my timing belt tight enough and that the tensioner wont self adjust due to the smaller distance it has to stretch over. I really have no idea if it is valid or not, anyone here have experince with this?
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Re: (POE)
yeah thats what he had said, but im afarid of the belt loosening over time, and not realizing it needs to be tightened. the belt has about 25k on it now, do you think i need to worry about it stretching anymore?
#4
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seriously dont worry about it, the spring on the tensioner will self tension, and IF DONE CORRECTLY, the tensioner will tighten enough to hold the belt. obviously the belt will stretch a little, as all do, but not enough to cause a consern.
#6
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Re: (POE)
B series tensioners aren't spring loaded when you tighten them down. The spring's just used to set the initial belt tension then when you tighten the bolt down on the tensioner and it doesn't move until you loosen the bolt again some day.
You will retard your cam timing by using the thinner HG just as milling the head and block also retard the timing. It happens because you're reducing the centerline distance from the cams to the crank.
Modified by MasterKwan at 5:36 PM 12/17/2006
You will retard your cam timing by using the thinner HG just as milling the head and block also retard the timing. It happens because you're reducing the centerline distance from the cams to the crank.
Modified by MasterKwan at 5:36 PM 12/17/2006
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Re: (MasterKwan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B series tensions aren't spring loaded when you tighten them down. The spring's just used to set the initial belt tension then when you tighten the bolt down on the tensioner and it doesn't move until you loosen the bolt again some day.
You will retard your cam timing by using the thinner HG just as milling the head and block also retard the timing. It happens because you're reducing the centerline distance from the cams to the crank.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok cool. yea i know how it works, so thats why i wasnt sure if the person who told me this was right or not... i couldnt see the limit of the tensioner being that close to the point where it wouldnt tighnten enough in that situation.
dad just got me a timing light so im set on the timing retard... thanks for the info
You will retard your cam timing by using the thinner HG just as milling the head and block also retard the timing. It happens because you're reducing the centerline distance from the cams to the crank.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok cool. yea i know how it works, so thats why i wasnt sure if the person who told me this was right or not... i couldnt see the limit of the tensioner being that close to the point where it wouldnt tighnten enough in that situation.
dad just got me a timing light so im set on the timing retard... thanks for the info
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#8
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Re: (SoHonda_Garage)
Naw, CAM timing not ignition timing. Imagine the cams moving closer to the crank. Basically the timing belt because it's the same length, makes the cams rotate clockwise a bit which retards the cam timing. Only adjustable cam gears will let you set it back to whatever stock is.
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Re: (MasterKwan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Naw, CAM timing not ignition timing. Imagine the cams moving closer to the crank. Basically the timing belt because it's the same length, makes the cams rotate clockwise a bit which retards the cam timing. Only adjustable cam gears will let you set it back to whatever stock is. </TD></TR></TABLE>
damn so if i use the thin headgasket ill need adj. cam gears?
damn so if i use the thin headgasket ill need adj. cam gears?
#10
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wouldnt hurt to have them, but not 100% necessary. i think .030" off the head/block only change cam timing 1° i doubt you will have to mill 30 thousandths.
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Re: (schardbody)
i doubt ill have to mill, and im using the .4 mm headgasket. i dont think ive heard of anyone having to use cam gears for that, but you dont think itll effect my power or efficiancy? i dont wanna run any differently than i have to
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Re: (schardbody)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why are you running a buddy club head gasket if you want it to run like stock???
dont worry about it, you will be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well not like stock, i dont want to be running shitty if i dont have to, if my timing wont be off enough to make a difference then its fine
dont worry about it, you will be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well not like stock, i dont want to be running shitty if i dont have to, if my timing wont be off enough to make a difference then its fine
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Re: (00Red_SiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're only reducing the distance by .010" thou.....(head gasket's that mutch thinner than stock) that's not enough to cause you a problem with anything. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok good
ok good
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