o0Riffraff0o

just replaced by block on the stock motor

d16y7

everything is on point but the block i got doesn't have the sensor the comes out from behind the crank pully... what is that for anyway?


and i tightened the tensioner all the way down... but the belt is still way loose.... what dose that mean? and how can i fix it?

R666_EK

That would be the crankshaft fluctuation sensor. Get a pic of whats going on. How loose is too lose?

trustdestruction

lol... tightening the tensioner isn't the only thing you have to do.

With the tensioner loose and the belt installed, temporarily put the crank pulley bolt in the end of the crankshaft and tighten it down a little bit (no need to tighten really tight). Then turn the crank counterclockwise (with a 17mm socket, a ratchet, and the crank pulley bolt) so that the cam gear moves 3 teeth. Then tighten the tensioner's bolt. You should now have the appropriate tension. Then remove the crank pulley bolt and continue with normal reinstallation of the parts.

o0Riffraff0o

well im going to do what the guy below said to try because i did nothing of the sort....


is that sensor Necessary? or can it be by passed... because it was on the block i pulled out, but not on the one i put in...

trustdestruction

What engine is the block?

Are the new block and the stock block both D16Y7's?

TravisCadello

exactly what i did and came out great! only i didn't go 3teeth but i spun it a whole round probably 8 teeth. still worked as long as the spring is good.

trustdestruction

Yea it's more of an "at least 3 teeth." 8 teeth works too.

o0Riffraff0o

naw blown block was d16y8 new block d16y7

trustdestruction

hmm... is the head you're gonna use a D16Y8 head?

If so, if your state doesn't have emissions, I would convert to OBD1 and use a P28 ECU. You'll throw a code with the P2P ECU if you're missing the sensor.

o0Riffraff0o

maaaan... im having trouble getting the crankshaft bolt off... f'ed my knukles all up, im kind of spent........ you think if i go get a timing belt they a just do it up??

trustdestruction

wait a second...

so you already have the crank pulley on and you're tensioning the belt?

didn't you already replace the timing belt and didn't you already have to remove the crankshaft bolt?

o0Riffraff0o

naw it was just a straight pre-assembled block from another car

trustdestruction

get a crank pulley holder tool and a breaker bar. then crank on the bolt with another breaker bar, an extension, and a jack stand (for stabilization of the extension so you can focus all of your strength to loosening the bolt).

Swansen

i've used an electric impact from harbor freight or menards to get the crank bolt off, no problems.

honda.lioness

Removing the crankshaft pulley is not essential; it just depends on the car and whether you're lucky enough to have the clearance to get to and put the correct torque on the tensioner bolt. Sometimes it is easier to get to the tensioner bolt from the top; sometimes the bottom. If you're stuck with going in from the bottom, then yes, the pulley is going to have to come off. For my D15B2 and D15B7, I have to have the pulley off. But ISTM from looking at junkyard Civics there really is a lot of variation on this clearance. I also bought a Craftsman slim ratchet specifically for tensioning the TB. Harbor Freight now sells these, too. The shop manual shows the tensioning procedure with the pulley on. See http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...l/pdf/6-20.pdf . After you think you have set the tension per the shop manual, have the upper timing cover off and watch the belt for about two revolutions of the crankshaft. It should move smoothly over the cam sprocket as you rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise. If it does not, you have set the tension incorrectly. Too much tension is as bad as too little, though. I try to use a crowbar levered against the studs of the wheel hub to turn the crankshaft so I do not lose torque on the pulley bolt. Have all spark plugs out so the crank is easy to turn.

Swansen

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/tdc-marks-crank-pulley-2533410/
^timing marks on crank pulley^

Matt93eg

Like Trustdestruction said you can get the Honda crank pulley holder and use it if the Y7 pulley has the octagon shape cutout in the pulley.

I bought the tool years ago and have used it quite a few times. Another thing I have done and some might advise against this but I have never had any problems..you just don't want to get it to hot. Take a propane torch that you can get at Lowes,Advanced auto,etc and hit the end of the crank pulley bolt for a few seconds..this will heat the bolt up and make it stretch..then use your favorite impact gun on it. Mine is a 1/2" Drive air gun. I have taken off the Honda bolts using this method as well as the crank bolt on a Mitsubishi Mirage 1.8L.

Good Luck.

viskii420

If you have access to tensioner pulley and bolt is it necessary to loosen the crank pulley to perform the task?

sde780

^nope

Matt93eg

x2

o0Riffraff0o

when i take of the power steering pully i have access to the tensioner from the top... so do i have too take it off still??

Swansen

Maybe not, but it will be a trick trying to get it out, and then not having the belt come off the crank sprocket, and then getting the tensioner back in and routed with the belt properly, and getting the spring off the tensioner.... I dunno, it guess its possible, but it will be a PITA.

sde780

It'll make it much easier if you can take the pulley off, there's just more space to work with. And if you drop anything, you'll have to take it off anyways

trustdestruction

hexagon

o0Riffraff0o

what about the question earlier about just dropping 130 and having a timing job on it?