Joey Mitchell

Fixing to slap a z6 on my y7. Reading tons of conflicting info on what timing belt to use. From checking Advance Auto, seems the z6, y7,y8, and y5 all use a 104 tooth timing belt. So does it even matter?

On another note, I'm concerned about dropping compression. I know that the y8 head gasket is the thinnest of the bunch, and is why it has the highest compression of the usdm d16 family. However, when shopping online for a head gasket, a lot of websites are saying the head gasket will fit a y7 and y8, even some will fit y5 as well. How can I make sure I'm getting a thin enough gasket to keep close to that 9.6-1 that the stock y8 has? I want the highest compression I can get as I never plan on any type of forced induction, just an all motor build.

Need answers for these questions, but if anybody has anything else to add I am putting a z6 head on a y7 block, in my 98 ex. I plan on using my y7 intake manifold on the z6 head and using a jumper harness to run a p28. I'm using what I have to work with here, buying gaskets alone will be expensive to me, so don't jump my butt about what I'm doing or how I'm going about it, but any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Joey Mitchell

One other concern, will a p28 with a jumper harness be able to operate the 3 wire iacv on my intake manifold? Being as it is an obd1 ecu, I doubt it, but idk if the jumper harness will take care of that for me.

Joey Mitchell

Ok, I did find that I will have to convert my iacv to a 2 wire in order to run a p28, which also means I can't use my y7 intake manifold as planned... UNLESS for time being I deletey iacv and block the ports off... Which is what I just might do.

Joey Mitchell

Or I could repin my harness at the ecu for 2 wire iacv, then use the z6 intake manifold on the z6 head, and put my y7 injectors into the z6 intake/head so they will fit the clips in my harness (a.k.a. I don't have to buy the injector jumper wires for obd2 to obd1). Hmmm... I need to stop thinking tonight. Lol

Joey Mitchell

Nobody? Really need to know which head gasket for highest compression, and if obd2 injectors will work on obd1. They make a jumper harness for the fuel injectors, what I really need to know is if my y7 injectors will mate with my z6 intake properly. I can't just go ripping it apart to find out as it is my daily; and when I go to do this swap I'm going to have to have the right stuff with me and do it in a day's time.

Joey Mitchell

Bump, bump bump. Were the kmk n we dont give a f.

Basically, I just need to know if my y7 injectors will fit in a z6 Im, and if I can run them off of a p28. Would save me some $$ as I wouldn't have to buy the obd2 to obd1 jumper wires.

Krauthammer

Jesus dude... stop bumping your post. search the 50000000000 other posts. There is literally a search function. just type in your question like it's google. What you type in will be highlighted in the post as you scroll

Joey Mitchell

Do you not think I haven't searched for the answer?? I'm not an inbicile that just has a question pop up in my head and heads over to Honda tech. You are like the 100th person I've explained this to, if I ask a question on here, it's because I can not find the answer else where. And what is the purpose of having a technical forum if every question I ask on here I just get run off by the old dudes who "know everything"

JRCivic1

First off... stop acting like the "old dudes" owe you answers... they don't. Quit whining and be respectful... that works better on us "old dudes". You have stated that you searched but we all know you have done a shoddy job at best in doing so because the basic stuff that you are asking has been covered ad nauseam online. Second, did you ever stop and think that the questions that you are posing either make little sense or are just a bad idea ???

School's in... sit down rookie.

Increasing compression by using a thin head gasket is good theory, but in practice, an overall bad idea. Doing this WILL increase the compression by a very small amount, but here are the negatives that come with this decision:

1) You reduce quench area at the perimeter of the piston/combustion chamber. This will effectively reduce how much ignition timing can be safely run with whatever fuel type you choose. MORE compression + LESS timing = A WASH in HP at best.
2) You gain DOUBLE the gasket thickness loss in timing belt slack. This reduces your ability to properly tension the timing belt, especially if the block and/or head have been milled. This increases the chances of timing belt jump.
3) The extra slack in the timing belt will effectively RETARD the camshaft events with respect to the crank. So, you will need an adjustable cam gear to compensate.

As for the fuel injectors... you didn't specify WHY you wanted to use OBD-2 instead of OBD-1 style fuel injectors... but I will indulge your grossly vague question.

ALL OBD-1 Civic DX/LX/EX/Si and Integra LS/RS/GSR fuel injectors are 235cc. OBD-2 style injectors vary in size from 195cc to 290cc, yet have the same style connectors... so this may be difficult for you to identify each size. Dimensionally, they will be similar as far as fit between the fuel rail and intake manifold opening. As a rule, you use the injector seals that come with the intake manifold and not whatever you happen to have on the fuel injectors themselves. The way that you stated your question, it seemed as though you were simply going to swap OBD-1 235cc injectors for OBD-2 195cc so you can use your stock injector clips... and then try to run the engine (that you are trying to make MORE power with) on a P28 ECU which is programmed for the larger previously mentioned 235cc injectors... all for what exactly ??? WHY ???

How about taking the time to better explain your intentions with this mini-me disaster you seem so inclined to create.

Joey Mitchell

Wow, lots of great info. It never occured to me changing head gasket thickness or shaving the head would change distance from cam to crank. I am still new to this and learning. I have a junk 92 ex and my daily 98 ex, y7 swap and I was attempting to squeeze as much hp out of my single cam without really spending any Mula. I mean I know I'll have to buy gaskets and whatnot.. Mostly doing it for knowledge and to learn. But it seems to me now, it would make more sense to be patient, save a little money up, and do it the right way. Either buy y8 head/intake/ECU or put the z6 on there with z6 intake, go obd1 and buy the things I need to do it correctly vs. just trying to make what I have work. I've been patient with this already though, I've had the car for 8 months and have been wanting to go vtec since I bought it. Ugh. Thanks for the great info. I assure you ive spent countless hours researching and learning since I bought the car... And will continue to learn.

JRCivic1

You said that you have had the car for 8 months... our definitions of "patience" apparently differ slightly.

Look up my "Blackbird" build thread here... (The Blackbird rises from the ashes...) That one took 12 years. I am 7 years and counting on my "K" swapped EM1... and I hope to finish her this year. (Incidentally, there will be a full build thread for this one too) I have had an '86 CRX Si that is getting a "B" swap since 1999... still not done... so 20 years and counting on that one !!! LOL My RSX-S took about 5 years to complete and I have a DA Sedan waiting in the wings to become a Lemons/Champ/WRL race car.

It is ALWAYS cheaper to save up and do it right than to do it twice. Usually far less headache too.

Krauthammer

I second this. My mini me took 4 years and still isn't right because my buddy wanted it his way, went expensive up front, then cheap where he should've put his money. Now I have it and I'm struggling to fix what he should've the first time. Btw, Z6 belt, and adjustable timing gear for your mini should do the trick. But then again, like was said above, milling and gaskets also come into factor. Highly recommend getting an Air gun if you have a big enough compressor, or a Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" high torque impact for the crank pully bolt. That thing is a b****

Joey Mitchell

Whoa, sounds like you have a ton of badass (excuse my language) cars. Quite interesting, and though I'm still getting familiar with this site, I'm going to check out all your threads dude it sounds like you have some interesting ones. I will keep all this in mind and try to exert a little more patience. Not to say you won't catch me pulling the head off of the 92 in the next few days, as I plan on attempting my first port and polish on it and I know that can really eat up some time. 😬 A year ago I could have cared less about a Honda, then I bought my Civic (originally for my gf) and by the time I drove it an hour home... Boom, a new passion was born. Lol. I mean 10 years ago when I was in high school my friend had a Teg I thought was pretty cool, and the junk 92 ex I have now was my sister's car that I was always working on, and I hated it until I bought mine. Anyways, I'm rambling at this point and I apologize. I really do appreciate the posative feedback, encourage not discourage. You've seemed like a pretty humble dude since I have been in the technical forums.

Joey Mitchell

Thanks for the input man. Wish I had an impact and air compressor, will probably be one of my next big tool purchases as I'm always in dire need of one. (My car is quite rusty on the belly side and not a bolt I've found gives in easy with just a lil pb blaster). Annnnd i know all about that harmonic balancer bolt. I just did a water pump/timing belt about a month ago, and my car sat up on jack stands for over a week bc of that bolt. I wound up breaking a few tools in the process, including twisting a 1/2" extension in half an (the extension on the breaker bar, used to run it out of the fender well). I couldn't find a way to keep the crack still long enough to break the bolt, even with the car in gear and wheels on the ground (and a screwdriver jammed in between brakes pads and rotor, aaannnnd my gf in the car holding the brakes) the passenger wheel would just spin in the gravel. I finally broke the little hateful bastard by taking the dust cover off the bottom of the tranny and jamming a screw driver in between teeth on the flywheel and the tranny case to hold the crank still, and a hella cheater bar on the end of a 1/2" breaker bar. You called it dude, that bolt is a bitch! Lol
Thanks for the info!