Timing belt - Proper tension
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Timing belt - Proper tension
Twice now my new timing belt has jumped a tooth on my d15b7.
This last time paying close attention, I retensioned it as the book shows (loosen tensioner, rotate crank CCW to move cam gear 3 teeth, retighten tensioner bolt).
So far it seems to be staying put, but it seems like I have excessive slop on the front of the belt (between the cam and crank). (1/2 to 3/4" or so of deflection with finger pressure).
Should I retension and manually put some pressure on the tensioner pulley before I tighten, or is the spring really enough?
I'm seeing mixed feelings in my search results about the spring really providing enough tension..
This last time paying close attention, I retensioned it as the book shows (loosen tensioner, rotate crank CCW to move cam gear 3 teeth, retighten tensioner bolt).
So far it seems to be staying put, but it seems like I have excessive slop on the front of the belt (between the cam and crank). (1/2 to 3/4" or so of deflection with finger pressure).
Should I retension and manually put some pressure on the tensioner pulley before I tighten, or is the spring really enough?
I'm seeing mixed feelings in my search results about the spring really providing enough tension..
Last edited by scoob8000; 10-06-2009 at 11:58 AM.
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Re: Timing belt - Proper tension
It's ok to have 1/2" or just a bit more but if ur getting 3/4" I would use a pick tool or a coat hanger and pull up on the tensioner just alil and then tighten it back down. If you get it to tight it will put unwanted stress on the cam and sound like a supercharger whine.
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Re: Timing belt - Proper tension
Well since the last adjustment I've put on about 30 miles and it's still not jumped. Perhaps I didn't have it tight enough the past couple.
So today I tried to retension, using a piece of solid wire to hook the tensioner. I actually couldn't pull up on it any tighter than the spring was pulling it. So it seems anyway.
So I turn the crank enough to move the cam gear 3 teeth again, and while tightening the adjuster I kept some force on the crank. It seems a tiny bit tighter, but not much. I figure I have about 1/2" now on the front of the belt, down as far as I can stick a finger.
So today I tried to retension, using a piece of solid wire to hook the tensioner. I actually couldn't pull up on it any tighter than the spring was pulling it. So it seems anyway.
So I turn the crank enough to move the cam gear 3 teeth again, and while tightening the adjuster I kept some force on the crank. It seems a tiny bit tighter, but not much. I figure I have about 1/2" now on the front of the belt, down as far as I can stick a finger.
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Re: Timing belt - Proper tension
do you have the right belt on there? and you should replace the tensioner spring (if not the whole tensioner) after every belt change.
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Re: Timing belt - Proper tension
I know. There's so much different information on it online. There's even one writeup I saw that said there should be about 1" of deflection on the front. (different motor though). I think it mentioned being able to turn it 1/4 way around too.
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Re: Timing belt - Proper tension
Update, so about 100 miles later it's still okay. I'm down to thinking I must of done something wrong the first time..
I've also been running with the top timing cover off so I can keep an eye on things for now. One thing I've noticed is once the engine has warmed up, the belt is much tighter.
I've also been running with the top timing cover off so I can keep an eye on things for now. One thing I've noticed is once the engine has warmed up, the belt is much tighter.
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04-14-2006 11:17 AM