Neptronix

Yeah so.. i was at the 'shop getting my '99 civic ex checked out. It seems like my upper motor mount ( the oil filled one ) had cracked and was leaking oil.. the tech showed me how my motor jerked violently back and forth at low rpm... yikes!

I put a motor mount insert in my last car ( chev. cavalier ) and it was a bitch.. it increased my vibration a little but my ultra-low end torque got a nice boost. I have never swapped out an entire motor mount though.

My questions are such:

1. Does replacing an upper motor mount involve more than wrenches and elbow grease, or should i just let the shop do it and pay them the $180 they're asking?

2. Are there any stiffer aftermarket motor mounts or motor mount inserts out there worth my time?

thanks in advance..
-neptro

Lmgrcivic

just do it yourself all you need is wrenchs and a jack to hold the motor up and just swap it out.

energy suspension makes inserts and theres a couple places that make full mounts

Neptronix

Hm.. don't have a fancy jack, just one that's slightly better than my stock one.. doesn't lift any higher. Where's a good (safe) spot to jack up the motor?

Ramma

lift it up from the oil pan, just put a piece of wood between the jack and the pan.

Neptronix

k other question... upper motor mount inserts on a D series:

turns your car into a jackhammer or not?

I noticed a difference when i did upper mount inserts on my 2.2 chevy and the vibration was negligible. I definetely wouldn't have done lower inserts though. Really helped during shifting / 0-1500rpm.

jz98ctr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ramma &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lift it up from the oil pan, just put a piece of wood between the jack and the pan.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that WILL work...but you'd probably want to try to stay closer to one side or the other with the jack on the oil pan. DO NOT try to jack it up from the middle cuz you'll probably end up denting the pan and bend the oil pickup within it possibly starving the engine of oil and you'll end up with a seized motor

if you choose to go this route...then try to get a piece of wood that would go sideways from driver to passenger side along the oil panand cover it completely like a 2X8 or 2X10 don't use a 2X4 if you can avoid it.

180 seems a little steep for just about 30 minutes of work...hell about 10-15 with power/air tools...try to jew them down a few bucks if you lack the know-how or the tools.

Neptronix

They were quoting me at 80 for the mount and 100 for the labor 'because it's a little over an hour'.

Kragen says an 'anchor brand' motor mount ( doesn't look oil filled ) is $45 before tax.
Or i could go to the scrap yards and pick one up off a '98.. i mean.. how often do these things break anyways?!!

Thanks for the info. yeah, i was a little nervous about jacking it up on the oil pan. It sounds like it's generally a safe thing to do and i'll note the 2x8/10 idea.

jz98ctr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neptronix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how often do these things break anyways?!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
they've been known to go bad and to start leaking

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neptronix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the info. yeah, i was a little nervous about jacking it up on the oil pan. It sounds like it's generally a safe thing to do and i'll note the 2x8/10 idea. </TD></TR></TABLE>


it really is a relatively easy task to accomplish. jack the car up and put it on jackstands. get the jack under the pan with your choice of lumber . jack up the motor just a little bit and loosen the bolts on the mount and remove it. replace in reverse order.

note: you may have to use a little gentle persuasion

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

Relavitely easy indeed. May I suggest picking up a Helms manual online, I know this has helped put a lot of uncertainty to rest in terms of performing certain tasks to my car. Instrcutions and visual aids are always helpful when doing your own work on your car. GL with the replacement

EE_Chris

The mount itself is really about 80 bucks online + shipping. And you can def do this yourself. Get some PBlaster and soak the studs/bolts to make the job easier if you don't have an impact.

But 100/hour...ouch. I honestly don't know how I could quote someone that kind of price knowing that while it make take an hour to do, it sure as **** shouldn't cost $100 in labor.

Take the extra coin and buy a breaker bar, extension and the needed sockets if you don't have them. And you've got a jack, so you don't need anything else...other than a piece of wood for a 'cushion' when jacking up using the oil pan.

jz98ctr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Relavitely easy indeed. May I suggest picking up a Helms manual online, I know this has helped put a lot of uncertainty to rest in terms of performing certain tasks to my car. Instrcutions and visual aids are always helpful when doing your own work on your car. GL with the replacement </TD></TR></TABLE>

anytime anybody i know is picking up a new set of wheels i tell them the first thing they should buy is a helms manual.

Neptronix

I've got a chilton's, but yeah. my previous experience with motor mount inserts gives me flashbacks so i'm a little timid about this .

I didn't know about the whole 'jacking up via oil pan' concept and ended up loosening the wrong bolts on my heavy-*** 2.2 chevy engine.. WHAM! engine lunges forward 3 inches. It took two computer nerds with not so superhuman strength to get it back in place.. ha ha..

Good times.
Anyways, thanks broskis. You've been helpful. Now time to find just the right piece of tree..

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

i dont mean to thread jack but this has happened to my 96 hx cvt.(dd.) the mount that is out is the lower right one by the wheel well. U guys think it will be a bitch to change that one?

jz98ctr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esco562 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont mean to thread jack but this has happened to my 96 hx cvt.(dd.) the mount that is out is the lower right one by the wheel well. U guys think it will be a bitch to change that one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you are talking about the torque mount that sits on the underside of the framerails...then no it's not really that much of a pain in the ***. it's just about the same...just in a different spot.

sageuvagony

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
they've been known to go bad and to start leaking



</TD></TR></TABLE>

These things leak!?!? Never knew.. Bleh I have to change (or fill in with urethane) my rear mount.. My engine bounces BAD like a **** during low rpm shifting (almost impossible to shift smoothly) and haven't done it due to my laziness. Wonder how much damage I'm causing by not fixing this. yes it bounes... BAD..

Neptronix

Got under the hood today and cleaned off the battery terminals + grounds with alcohol and sandpaper.. they were fairly dirty. Getting into 1st is way easier now and the power at lower rpm is better.. doesn't wimp out as much, interior lights are brighter etc etc. sweet! Seems like that was the majority of my problem. ( window motors are still really weak.. maybe they just need replacement. )

Motor still rocks like a bitch though, so my work is only half done.. *crossing fingers that a smidge of 0-2000rpm torque is to be recovered in the process*

checked out the motor mount while i was down there. looks easy, maybe 5 bolts!
I'll post a how to when i'm done if anyone's interested. But this looks cake.

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you are talking about the torque mount that sits on the underside of the framerails...then no it's not really that much of a pain in the ***. it's just about the same...just in a different spot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

does anyone know the part number for that mount?

19usmchonda97

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...81%29</U>.... hope this helps they're like 35 bucks ea. mine are gone too