Syndacate

How many miles have to be put on the car for it to throw the "normal emissions" codes so they can OBD-II scan it for inspection?

The car's throwing no CEL's but when I was working on the electrical system I unplugged the battery, and apparently you have to put mileage on it. I've heard of this on BMW's, VW's, Mustangs, etc., but NEVER with a Honda.

No CEL's, but it's no nothing, the ECU is throwing "blanks" - it needs to be driven for X amount of miles before an OBD-II scanner can scan it for its emissions. I need to know that X number and can't find it anywhere. I think with the mustangs it's like 50mi, and with the VW's it's like 75mi.

Anybody know, PLEASE tell me, my car failed inspection because I had to take out the battery to access that stupid nut behind the bracket on the fuel filter to change it and then I drove it ~5mi to the inspection station and it's throwin blanks, not throwing the "all is peachy" emissions codes, I did NOT know Honda ECU's did that . This is the first I've heard of it, help, plz, I only got a little bit of tme b4 my temporary inspection expires.

ECU = P2P (I think)
'97 EX Coupe

egsleepercivic

i don't know much about obd2, i read in another thread it can take like 3 days, the post didn't mention anything about mileage

gl

Syndacate

No, dammit, what the ****, it has nothign to do with days, what if you drive it all day and all night? Does that count as 2 days? No, there's a mileage value before the ECU can retain all its emissions information and be ready to be scanned, not a startup # of times, not a "running for X hours" - a mileage.

Maybe your friend there just meant drive it around for ~3 days and it should be good by then, but I got a 100 mile trip to make today and I wanna make sure it'll build back all the emissions stuff so I can get it inspected on the way back.

Nothing to do with days, only miles.

EDIT:
****, sorry I'm snapping at you, I'm just really pissed about this.

egsleepercivic

i know it has nothing to do with days, i believe the ecu runs self test and this was just the amount of time it could take before it's ready for a test. obviously the more miles you put on it the less time it takes. the only people that can give you a definte answer are the honda engineers that made the ecu. try calling the dealership and asking them how long it takes, the will probably know since it is common practice for them to remove neg cable when doing any service work.

p.s. don't worry about the snap, i know it can be frustrating looking for answers, also its not a friend of mine i just read in it a post here on HT

gl

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsleepercivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know it has nothing to do with days, i believe the ecu runs self test and this was just the amount of time it could take before it's ready for a test. obviously the more miles you put on it the less time it takes. the only people that can give you a definte answer are the honda engineers that made the ecu. try calling the dealership and asking them how long it takes, the will probably know since it is common practice for them to remove neg cable when doing any service work.

p.s. don't worry about the snap, i know it can be frustrating looking for answers, also its not a friend of mine i just read in it a post here on HT

gl </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I'll give that a try. Thanks.

krazymarine

i know this one my car also fail emm due to my ecu well you need to check and see if you dont have the radio fuse blown at the engine fuse box now if that check ok i only had to drive the car arround for like 40 miles i drove hard
eazy turn it on turn it off turn it back on a few times thats what i was told to do by a friend at the honda dealer i also have a 97 ex auto so try that. I redline mine a few times did like 15 miles n the street a few n the freeway and then i got on my way to the insp station ..
hope this helps good luck ....

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazymarine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know this one my car also fail emm due to my ecu well you need to check and see if you dont have the radio fuse blown at the engine fuse box now if that check ok i only had to drive the car arround for like 40 miles i drove hard
eazy turn it on turn it off turn it back on a few times thats what i was told to do by a friend at the honda dealer i also have a 97 ex auto so try that. I redline mine a few times did like 15 miles n the street a few n the freeway and then i got on my way to the insp station ..
hope this helps good luck ....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aight, I'll check that when I get to the inspection station to pick it up.

I assume ur talking about #43 - 10amp?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1951157 (scroll down)

Yeah, the 100 mile trip was canceled 'cause I don't have to go all the way to the hub and replaced with one that's like ~50-60miles, so hopefully that'll reset it and I can get it inspected on the way back. I'll check that fuse when I get there though.

sageuvagony

OBDII sucks from what it sounds like..

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sageuvagony &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBDII sucks from what it sounds like..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, it does, I usually don't mind it though.

EDIT:
It failed the inspection - 3 of the sensors weren't ready after 35 mile drive.

They give you a whole pamphlet on what has to happen for the ECU to ready the sensors for the scan again. It can be scanned right after it's plugged back up, but it has to gather all this info before it can be inspected to be "okay."

krazymarine

sorry to hear that but the 30 + miles did the trick for my ECU also the turn on and off did they tell you what sensors were not ready???

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazymarine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to hear that but the 30 + miles did the trick for my ECU also the turn on and off did they tell you what sensors were not ready???</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, he just said 3 still weren't ready, I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the O2 sensor was one, maybe 2 of them. I'm making a .pdf as we speak of the pamphlet so pple don't run into the same problem that I did.


Modified by Syndacate at 2:49 AM 6/26/2007

Frozen E

Interesting info. Looking forward to the pdf

bmoua

a while back when i went in to get my smog, i reseted my ecu (drove a 1 mile distance to smog shop) and didn't past. Drove it for a good 30-40 miles and took it back 2 days later. Passed with flying colors. When i took my car in the smog mechanic new i reseted the ecu and told me to drive 30miles+ and then take it back. I dont know the actual mileage honda recommends,but i took the smog mechanics advice and it worked. good luck bro

Syndacate

Ha, I don't have any dedicated servers at the moment so I just hosted it on the server I'm running on this computer.

http://syndacate.no-ip.org/HondaECUReset.pdf

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmoua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a while back when i went in to get my smog, i reseted my ecu (drove a 1 mile distance to smog shop) and didn't past. Drove it for a good 30-40 miles and took it back 2 days later. Passed with flying colors. When i took my car in the smog mechanic new i reseted the ecu and told me to drive 30miles+ and then take it back. I dont know the actual mileage honda recommends,but i took the smog mechanics advice and it worked. good luck bro</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, they told me 30 miles or so, I drove it 28 to do the errands I had to do (the inspection station was on my way home) - three sensors weren't ready, I don't really care which 3 - it's not like it was throwing a CEL or anything .

I have to make a ~40-50 mile trip tomorrow, so it should be fine by tomorrow, I guess the concept is "constant" running opposed to driving around towns 'n such, I don't know. I didn't read the manual, actually. Just scanned it into a pdf and hosted it .

Hope this helps some other people...

krazymarine

i think it has to do with the shiffting of the tranny and the rpm range of the engine since the sensors have to open and close loops for the ecu to store that data

i was told to drive arround town and to try to stay away from the freeway

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazymarine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think it has to do with the shiffting of the tranny and the rpm range of the engine since the sensors have to open and close loops for the ecu to store that data

i was told to drive arround town and to try to stay away from the freeway </TD></TR></TABLE>

Read the manual I posted, it basically tells you to go on the freeway so you can maintain a constant speed for 15 minutes. It's got a whole bunch of **** on there like doing a cold start, rev it X times, it's ridiculous.

I put like 90mi on it since the senors weren't ready, so I have an appointment tomorrow at 0800 and I'll see what happens then.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Read the manual I posted, it basically tells you to go on the freeway so you can maintain a constant speed for 15 minutes. It's got a whole bunch of **** on there like doing a cold start, rev it X times, it's ridiculous.

I put like 90mi on it since the senors weren't ready, so I have an appointment tomorrow at 0800 and I'll see what happens then.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Woo, just got back, failed again.

Just over 200 miles are on the car since the ECU was last reset. Nothing, I got within TWO MILES of the inspection station - and the CEL comes back on - another code 45, P0171 - System Running Lean.

Dammit.

Though he said it wouldn't have passed inspection anyway, 3 of the sensors STILL WEREN'T READY. So just over 200 miles later, the ECU was still not completely reset . The sensors were O2, evap system, and something else. I'm hoping that maybe the O2 sensor was fried which is A) Causing the CEL, and B) Making it so the sensor isn't ready.

Though that's wishful thinking, I think we all know that a new O2 sensor won't do jack ******* ****.

Dammit, any suggestions are welcome.

Also, one of my e-brake lines is torn, you replace them in pairs though, from hondapartsdeals.com I got this:
- 47510-SR1-A12 005 WIRE A, R. PARKING BRAKE - 1 $62.92 $46.43
- 47560-SR1-A12 008 WIRE A, L. PARKING BRAKE - 1 $62.92 $46.43

So that's ~$92.

Then I figure if I was to replace both the primary and secondary O2 sensor I'd have:
- 36532-P2R-A01 027 SENSOR, RR. OXYGEN - 1 $256.97 $189.64
- 36531-P2R-A01 005 SENSOR, FR. OXYGEN - 1 $216.70 $159.92

And all that **** costs $442.42, without tax, I think hondapartsdeals.com has free shipping.

If anybody else has better prices for the parts let me know..I can't even afford this, but I need to pass inspection or this car is 2500lbs of dead weight.

Help plz .

sicones

what your tying to do is set the Inspection and Maintenance (I/M) monitors to 'READY', this can take any where from 20 to 100+ miles, depends on temperature and driving conditions. I has to be done over the course of 2 days at least, the ECU needs to see the coolent temp drop to "overnight" cold

a $100 code reader or scan tool will let you see all of the I/M monitors before you go to get an inspection, if you want to go that route...

if your car is 96-00 (which it is) you're allowed to have 2 I/M monitors 'NOT READY'
2001+ only 1 'NOT READY'

sicones

I'v also notice that 96-98 OBD2A P2P takes a little longer to reset then mine (99-00 OBD2B)

EDIT: you can get DENSO direct fit o2s from a guy in the for sale section for $60
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1890859

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what your tying to do is set the Inspection and Maintenance (I/M) monitors to 'READY', this can take any where from 20 to 100+ miles, depends on temperature and driving conditions. I has to be done over the course of 2 days at least, the ECU needs to see the coolent temp drop to "overnight" cold

a $100 code reader or scan tool will let you see all of the I/M monitors before you go to get an inspection, if you want to go that route...

if your car is 96-00 (which it is) you're allowed to have 2 I/M monitors 'NOT READY'
2001+ only 1 'NOT READY'</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, that's what he told me, but 3 weren't ready, so he couldn't do it anyway, even if the CEL wasn't on.

I drove the car roughly ~200 miles since the last disconnect, then it sat overnight, and I left at 0800 this morning, and bam, 3 weren't ready, O2, evap, and something else. Plus, throughout that whole 200 miles no CEL, but it threw a CEL ~2 miles from the inspection station.

The same P0171 code, system too lean. I wanna hope it's an O2 sensor, and of course it costs a ****-ton.

The guy told me that "The guy who installed this pipe obviously knows better than the Honda engineers, it's made for a stock intake pipe, and a stock header, and a stock exhaust. Though I doubt that's the problem, both O2 sensors are in and if it was throwing bad emissions I'd get an O2 sensor code or a emissions code, but I got neither.

I'm hoping the sensor is fucked up, but I don't even have the money to buy what I'm buying, so expletive. I wanna replace the secondary and primary O2 sensors, but as you can see, they cost a fortune. Honda dealership wants ~$75 / brake cable - expletive that, I'm ordering them from http://www.hondapartsdeals.com right now. As for the O2 sensor, I don't know, it might not even be the problem, in which case I just drop $300 for nothing.

sicones

don't bother replacing the secondary, that O2 does nothing for "tuning" the engine, you should replace your primary o2 ($60), spark plugs, cap, rotor and and since is says running lean rasing the fuel pressure might help

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't bother replacing the secondary, that O2 does nothing for "tuning" the engine, you should replace your primary o2 ($60), spark plugs, cap, rotor and and since is says running lean rasing the fuel pressure might help</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a fuel pressure gauge on there now and it's reading 43psi static.

Normal according to helms for this engine is 38-46psi.

It DOES need a tuneup, it's breaking up in the moist weather, it needs rotor/plugs/cap/wires, but I don't think that would throw the code - that's on my "to-do" list never-the-less.

I don't know where you see a primary O2 sensor for 60 bucks without getting one of those **** universal ones that you have to solder the ends on (well if it's right next to the header you could probably use shrink rap or crimps - but either way).

- 36531-P2R-A01 005 SENSOR, FR. OXYGEN - 1 $216.70 $159.92

From HondaPartsDeals - who's site crashed when I finished the check-out procedure for the e-brake cables, so it probably took the money out and didn't do jack ****, and the phone's ******* busy.

The O2 sensor is 159 here, where do you get one for 60 dollars that's not a napa auto parts special universal O2?

sicones

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know where you see a primary O2 sensor for 60 bucks without getting one of those **** universal ones that you have to solder the ends on (well if it's right next to the header you could probably use shrink rap or crimps - but either way). </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can get DENSO direct fit o2s from a guy in the for sale section for $60
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1890859</TD></TR></TABLE>

egsleepercivic

I want to see you get this fixed

http://www.sparkplugs.com

ngk direct replacement O2 55.85

denso direct replacement O2 58.73

gl