Ticking after New Valve.
01-14-2008, 12:38 PM
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Ticking after New Valve.
I searched already and found some decent info but i just want to clear a few things up.
I bought the car running on 3 cylinders. It sounded pretty sweet and quiet considering it was only running on three cylinders. Turned out to be a burnt exhaust valve on No1 cylinder.
I took the head off and replaced the valve, it runs ok apart from blue smoke at startup/idle which goes away when driving - valve stem seals i know, and i plan to replace them asap. Thing is there's a very loud ticking from the valvetrain area (i can hear it whilst driving). I've done the valve adjustments on a cold engine twice and it doesn't make a difference.
I had to reuse the original exhaust manifold gasket which got slightly damaged and No.1 outlet seeps oil a bit due to the stem seals so i know that's not sealing correctly and will contribute to ticking.
The ticking is constant, happens hot and cold. It seems to speed up with engine revs. Timing correct and hasn't jumped any teeth and so it shouldn't be bent valves, engine runs sweet. Distributer timing maybe? although i've never heard of this making loud tapping noise plus i did mark the alignment before removing the dizzy.
What gets me is why is it ticking after the head was put back on? surely if the LMA's, valve guides etc are dodgy then they would have been tapping before the head was removed.
I plan to remove the head and build it up in a few weeks plus a new timing belt kit, water pump etc so i'm curious as to whether it'll be ok til then.. if it is valve adjustments surely loose/tapping is better than tight?.. burnt valves ain't my thing.
Any ideas what it could be?
cheers again!. i just don't want to run it too long but i need to use it for work.
I bought the car running on 3 cylinders. It sounded pretty sweet and quiet considering it was only running on three cylinders. Turned out to be a burnt exhaust valve on No1 cylinder.
I took the head off and replaced the valve, it runs ok apart from blue smoke at startup/idle which goes away when driving - valve stem seals i know, and i plan to replace them asap. Thing is there's a very loud ticking from the valvetrain area (i can hear it whilst driving). I've done the valve adjustments on a cold engine twice and it doesn't make a difference.
I had to reuse the original exhaust manifold gasket which got slightly damaged and No.1 outlet seeps oil a bit due to the stem seals so i know that's not sealing correctly and will contribute to ticking.
The ticking is constant, happens hot and cold. It seems to speed up with engine revs. Timing correct and hasn't jumped any teeth and so it shouldn't be bent valves, engine runs sweet. Distributer timing maybe? although i've never heard of this making loud tapping noise plus i did mark the alignment before removing the dizzy.
What gets me is why is it ticking after the head was put back on? surely if the LMA's, valve guides etc are dodgy then they would have been tapping before the head was removed.
I plan to remove the head and build it up in a few weeks plus a new timing belt kit, water pump etc so i'm curious as to whether it'll be ok til then.. if it is valve adjustments surely loose/tapping is better than tight?.. burnt valves ain't my thing.
Any ideas what it could be?
cheers again!. i just don't want to run it too long but i need to use it for work.
01-14-2008, 01:45 PM
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well just to answer my own question sort of...
had a wee listen with a screwdriver and to be honest it's not THAT loud.. sounds more like it's coming from the intake/injectors than it does from the valve cover.. i guess my injectors are hella noisy.
had a wee listen with a screwdriver and to be honest it's not THAT loud.. sounds more like it's coming from the intake/injectors than it does from the valve cover.. i guess my injectors are hella noisy.
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