throwing code 13
#1
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throwing code 13
im throw code 13 which is atmospheric pressure sensor the vtec kicks in even tho the cell is on anybody have any ideas what the hell this thing does.
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motor usdm b16a2 greddy turbo kit
#2
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Re: throwing code 13 (2000siturboR)
Code 13 - Atmosphric Pressure Sensor
The PA sensor should read close to the MAP sensor of 2.75v, this may very small amounts due to current weather conditions and elevation. Due to it's location, it is probably easier to check the voltage at the ECU. This sensor vary seldom, or never at all should fail. Flooding may have damaged it, at one time or another.
The PA sensor should read close to the MAP sensor of 2.75v, this may very small amounts due to current weather conditions and elevation. Due to it's location, it is probably easier to check the voltage at the ECU. This sensor vary seldom, or never at all should fail. Flooding may have damaged it, at one time or another.
#5
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Re: (bmoua)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmoua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try throwing on a new ecu, if that doesn't work then its your map sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think it would be better to turn that around and throwing parts at it is not the way to go throwing a map sensor is one thing cause it is the sensor it is looking at and throwing the code but replacing the ecu isnt going to do you anything but empty your pocket out. not saying that its not the ecu but it should always be the last thing on your list after sensor wires and grounds have been checked.
map sensor has three wires 1. 5volt ref. it always has 5v or real close like 4.9v then depening baromatric pressure it will range in between 0.1-4.9v this will be your 2. signal wire now looking at a signal wire and watching voltage go up and down is pretty pointless unless you know how honda set it up ie. 3v= 29inhg
so but as long as you are getting voltage changes on this wire you got some sense that its doing something. 3. then you have a ground this is usally grounded by computer but just like any ground, test to see if there is voltage on the ground side cause with bad grounds comes high resistance and voltage supply has to save some to make it past resistance. so if you see voltage find where the problem is. this should give you a pretty good start. dont throw parts at it please!
I think it would be better to turn that around and throwing parts at it is not the way to go throwing a map sensor is one thing cause it is the sensor it is looking at and throwing the code but replacing the ecu isnt going to do you anything but empty your pocket out. not saying that its not the ecu but it should always be the last thing on your list after sensor wires and grounds have been checked.
map sensor has three wires 1. 5volt ref. it always has 5v or real close like 4.9v then depening baromatric pressure it will range in between 0.1-4.9v this will be your 2. signal wire now looking at a signal wire and watching voltage go up and down is pretty pointless unless you know how honda set it up ie. 3v= 29inhg
so but as long as you are getting voltage changes on this wire you got some sense that its doing something. 3. then you have a ground this is usally grounded by computer but just like any ground, test to see if there is voltage on the ground side cause with bad grounds comes high resistance and voltage supply has to save some to make it past resistance. so if you see voltage find where the problem is. this should give you a pretty good start. dont throw parts at it please!
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (gsrhatch2356)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrhatch2356 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think it would be better to turn that around and throwing parts at it is not the way to go throwing a map sensor is one thing cause it is the sensor it is looking at and throwing the code but replacing the ecu isnt going to do you anything but empty your pocket out. not saying that its not the ecu but it should always be the last thing on your list after sensor wires and grounds have been checked.
map sensor has three wires 1. 5volt ref. it always has 5v or real close like 4.9v then depening baromatric pressure it will range in between 0.1-4.9v this will be your 2. signal wire now looking at a signal wire and watching voltage go up and down is pretty pointless unless you know how honda set it up ie. 3v= 29inhg
so but as long as you are getting voltage changes on this wire you got some sense that its doing something. 3. then you have a ground this is usally grounded by computer but just like any ground, test to see if there is voltage on the ground side cause with bad grounds comes high resistance and voltage supply has to save some to make it past resistance. so if you see voltage find where the problem is. this should give you a pretty good start. dont throw parts at it please!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well im speaking from just my experience...my girls car was throwing a code 13. I replaced it with a new ecu but the cel was still there. So i researched and most people said it had to be the map sensor. Replaced that and the cel went away.
Best thing was i found the ecu for $10 and the map sensor was basically free.
I think it would be better to turn that around and throwing parts at it is not the way to go throwing a map sensor is one thing cause it is the sensor it is looking at and throwing the code but replacing the ecu isnt going to do you anything but empty your pocket out. not saying that its not the ecu but it should always be the last thing on your list after sensor wires and grounds have been checked.
map sensor has three wires 1. 5volt ref. it always has 5v or real close like 4.9v then depening baromatric pressure it will range in between 0.1-4.9v this will be your 2. signal wire now looking at a signal wire and watching voltage go up and down is pretty pointless unless you know how honda set it up ie. 3v= 29inhg
so but as long as you are getting voltage changes on this wire you got some sense that its doing something. 3. then you have a ground this is usally grounded by computer but just like any ground, test to see if there is voltage on the ground side cause with bad grounds comes high resistance and voltage supply has to save some to make it past resistance. so if you see voltage find where the problem is. this should give you a pretty good start. dont throw parts at it please!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well im speaking from just my experience...my girls car was throwing a code 13. I replaced it with a new ecu but the cel was still there. So i researched and most people said it had to be the map sensor. Replaced that and the cel went away.
Best thing was i found the ecu for $10 and the map sensor was basically free.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (bmoua)
well if you can get a ecu for 10 bucks then it wouldnt be that big of a deal to try it but still should be your last thing to try just cause without hook ups most ecus run a few hundred
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#8
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Re: (bmoua)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmoua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well im speaking from just my experience...my girls car was throwing a code 13. I replaced it with a new ecu but the cel was still there. So i researched and most people said it had to be the map sensor. Replaced that and the cel went away.
Best thing was i found the ecu for $10 and the map sensor was basically free. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would you tell him to replace the ECU if you just admitted that it didnt fix the problem you had when you tried it?
well im speaking from just my experience...my girls car was throwing a code 13. I replaced it with a new ecu but the cel was still there. So i researched and most people said it had to be the map sensor. Replaced that and the cel went away.
Best thing was i found the ecu for $10 and the map sensor was basically free. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would you tell him to replace the ECU if you just admitted that it didnt fix the problem you had when you tried it?
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