cozmo2312

can i plug these two coolant nipples and leave the grey plug next to it unplugged?? the throttle body that's on my car right now (d16y7) i think has a bad fast idle thermo valve/IACV valve and therefore, when i start the car, the idle jumps to 2500 and stays there for 30 seconds and then bounces between 1800-2000 for about a minute until the car is semi-warm (which leads me to believe it's the FITV) once the car is warm and running, it idles and drives great, but i don't want this problem to happen again, so when i swap this throttle body on (d16y8) i was wondering if i could just bypass it?? thanks!

Jer

what you need to do is remove the plate on the back side of the tb. there is a spring loaded plunger vaccum that is threaded. more than likely it has came loose and is causing the idle surge. it has two slots, one on each side of the washer screw. take a flat head screwdriver and thread it back down till tight, that should fix your problem.

sorry i know that sounds a little confusing. if you have any questions just IM me. ive fixed this same problem a few times before.

cozmo2312

up, anyone else??

E-brake or Handbrake

i knwo its redundant but trust me--Go to SEARCH & type in FITV.

I've done what GERM was suggesting (screw back down the plastic screw) & it totally fixed my cold idle in the mornings. I'll try to find the thread that helped me the most and post it up for you.

EDIT: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=699787

EE_Chris

#1. D16Y7 did NOT come with a FITV (nor did the Y8).

#2. I would route the coolant lines to the IACV....they can freeze up and stick.

#3. The D16Y7 used a 3-wire IACV while the D16Y8 used a 2-wire IACV. The Y7 ECU can not control the Y8 IACV and vice-versa.

#4. Remove the IACV (Honda does sell the sealing gasket as a seperate item for a few bills, I would recommend buying one) and give it a thorough cleaning and reinstall.

#5. Since you've disconnected the coolant lines, the coolant system needs to be bled as air bubbles will cause a hunting idle.

Hopefully you've not touched the idle air bypass screw nor the throttle blade stop screw (this one will really give you headaches, as it directly affects TPS output). After you've got everything back together, start her up and let it warm up for a bit....kind of a idle re-learn if you will.

I had this same thing happen to my 99 hatch (stock Y7). The IACV would freeze up on me and after warming up, it would unstick itself. While this was going, I had the whole surging idle/bucking acceleration happen. I went ahead and cleaned it up, replaced the gasket and all has been well since then. The IACV had about 180k when this began to happen.