TrueZen

What type of pads did you use with them? I'm considering doing this swap on a CX I'm going to pick up soon and will use for DD, plus autox and maybe some circuit runs. I'm thinking about getting the Porterfield R4S's, but just want to see what kinds of pads you used after the brake swap. Please state if you use it for anything harsher than regular or spirited street driving.

splitime

If you really want to do autox and track and street with them.... I'd suggest 2 sets of pads. Its very quick to switch and you'll get ideal usage for each.

For street I'm actually using a set of Napa ceramic lifetimes... their stopping power sucks... but they're lifetime and low dust

For track I've been using Cobalt GT-Sports front and Axxis Ultimates rear.

I'll soon be switching to VR-Specs for track, I NEED more pad with the aggressiveness of my track driving.

If you want something that will work well for both street and track... i'd try something like an Axxis Ultimate or a GTSport, expect alot of dust from either and be a little wary of them until they get some heat into them.

Honestly though, for anything track... I stick to Cobalt Friction pads... Andy is the man. http://www.cobaltfriction.com

MassScene

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you really want to do autox and track and street with them.... I'd suggest 2 sets of pads. Its very quick to switch and you'll get ideal usage for each.

For street I'm actually using a set of Napa ceramic lifetimes... their stopping power sucks... but they're lifetime and low dust

For track I've been using Cobalt GT-Sports front and Axxis Ultimates rear.

I'll soon be switching to VR-Specs for track, I NEED more pad with the aggressiveness of my track driving.

If you want something that will work well for both street and track... i'd try something like an Axxis Ultimate or a GTSport, expect alot of dust from either and be a little wary of them until they get some heat into them.

Honestly though, for anything track... I stick to Cobalt Friction pads... Andy is the man. http://www.cobaltfriction.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your prolly not getting maximum stopping power than since usually when you get new pads you change or resurface your rotors. There is def a reason for resurfacing after changing pads. On my hatch I run gsr brakes, w/ powerslot rotors, AEM pads (pad life isnt really bad at all... and instead of dust they kinda chunk off so its less messy), earls steel braided brake lines, and motul dot 5.5 fluid (higher boiling temp). Stops on a dime and never ever fades!!!!!

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MassScene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your prolly not getting maximum stopping power than since usually when you get new pads you change or resurface your rotors. There is def a reason for resurfacing after changing pads. On my hatch I run gsr brakes, w/ powerslot rotors, AEM pads (pad life isnt really bad at all... and instead of dust they kinda chunk off so its less messy), earls steel braided brake lines, and motul dot 5.5 fluid (higher boiling temp). Stops on a dime and never ever fades!!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Going to have to disagree with you here. Pads merely need to be bedded in to break the clean molded surface. The tiny differences between the rotor when you bed and when you use the pads won't hurt anything, the pads will reshape that tiny bit within a few minutes of track time.

Those AEM pads are pretty much junk btw. If you want real pads, I'd suggest Cobalt or Carbotech. Cobalt being my pad of choice. Also for brake rotors I'd stick with Blanks from either Autozone/pepboys/napa etc... or a cheap set of brembo blanks through a sponsor or something.

If you want increased pedal feel, the SS lines are nice for that, along with upgrading the Master Cylinder. I recently got around to putting the 91 civic ex 15/16th on my car and it was a VERY VERY nice difference over the stock civic vx 13/16th MC.

If you want to avoid boiling your fluid ATE Superblu is a very well priced option, its a hair under the boiling point of the Motul fluid, but it has a longer in car life and is much cheaper.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is def a reason for resurfacing after changing pads. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree... its to fix larger problems with rotors, not to prep for new pads. If you really want to prep for a new pad to bed in, take some sand paper to the rotor, just to help the pad bed even quicker, thats all..... I've got the same set of Autozone rotors on my car from 1.5yrs ago.... they've got like 20k street miles.... 8 track events.... 4 autoXs and not a single problem. I've gone through like 5 sets of pads on them, and currently still switch to street pads vs my track pads.

Targa250R

Looks like splitime has this under control already. All good information - you covered everything I would have said, and more

I've been using Axxis Ultimates on my CRX as sort of an "all-purpose" pad since I am too lazy to change pads at the track. They are intended more as an autocross/aggressive street pad (which they excel at), but the specs do allow for some light duty road course use; of course they have their limitations on a road course, but actually haven't been too bad for my needs thus far (especially since I am using the stock D16A6). Once I get a little faster on the track I'll start looking into something more dedicated for track use, but for now the Ultimates have been enough. The aspect I like the most is that they are inexpensive

Cobalt GT Sports are comparable to Axxis Ultimates, if not a little bit better all around. These are about the most aggressive pads I would want to use to drive daily on the street. Anything more will require some heat build-up to work properly, and will not perform well for cold stops - this is not a good thing for the street.

Be warned - when you step into the realm of real performance brake pads, dust and noise will be problems you will have to deal with. If you don't like dust or noise, then you'll have to just be satisfied with the lackluster braking power and fade resistance of stock or mild-performance pads (i.e. AEM or Axxis MetalMasters).

My setup is Axxis Ultimates at all 4 corners (stock '90-91 CRX Si brakes, 9.5" fronts and discs in the rear), Ate Superblue/Typ-200 fluid (also inexpensive, which is good since it gets flushed often), a '90-91 Civic EX 15/16" master cylinder (replaced my leaky stock 7/8" CRX Si unit), and the ubiquitous Falken Azenis tires.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I recently did the gsr rear disc swap, and installed a new set of ultimates. I couldn't believe the braking difference from stock drums. But since I only have the ultimates in the rear (metalic in the front), once there warmed up, My rear end locks up first. Now I have to redo the fronts...

litterbox

Will AEM pads from a 97 EX fit on an 94-01 Integra brake setup in the front?

H23AHybridEG

I used stock pads and rotors. The car stops MORE than good enough

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will AEM pads from a 97 EX fit on an 94-01 Integra brake setup in the front?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, the pads for '96-00 Civic EX calipers and '94-01 Integra non-R calipers are not the same.

litterbox

Thank you.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, the pads for '96-00 Civic EX calipers and '94-01 Integra non-R calipers are not the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What about the actual rotors?

Team 4

I have the GSR setup in my 93 DX, and do a lot of the same driving as you do (street, autoX, track). I went with the KVR CF pads. I'm happy with them, as they do everything reasonably well, and are fade free during autoX runs. Pretty quiet and well priced too. Check them out.

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about the actual rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes - the rotors themselves are exactly the same.

litterbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes - the rotors themselves are exactly the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks buddy.

Mattamotor

well me think you have driven a real good braking car before.

I will vouch for the Spec VR. They are the best braking i have ever felt. well worth the 90 dollars to outbrake Gt3s. Downside noxsios smell, corrsive brake dust, noisey as hell, and you have to warm them up to operating temp(these can not be driven on the street). I could get the car down from 115 to about 55 in less than 50meters(beaverun turn 10). Get these pads you will love them.

MassScene

My brakes were a definate step up from stock. Disks and pads that I was running before. AEM was a cost effective way to get better pads. They feel better than stock and they have a longer life than the crazy brake pads. To each's own I guess.!!!

Redline96LX

PLEASE NOTE:
the 94-01 Integras, except the type-R ALL have the same brakes. So the GSR brakes are the same as LS brakes. Also...the front rotors from a 99-00 Civic Si and 96-00 civic EX are the same as 94-01 Integras (-R)

GaiSensai`