kaluwa3

I have a 00 civic si, completely stock besides I/H/E, around 90k miles. I've been wanting to boost it for a while now, but now I really wanna do it.

I am not going to be doing anything crazy. I'll just be running low boost (6-8 psi). I would be keeping the internals completely stock. Would this setup be unreliable for daily driving? Should the high mileage (90k) make me rethink boosting it?

Also should I try to find a nice kit (no ebay **** obviously) or try to piece together my own kit. I'm looking to spend under 3,000 total.

Thanks

EJ1chevelle

if you keep the boost below 8 psi and the turbo not too big you should be making good reliable safe horsepower for a dd

kaluwa3

Even with 90k miles and 100% oem internals?

djessenz

Best thing would be to swap in a viper engine. It makes a great daily driver and gets around 2mpg

kaluwa3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djessenz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Best thing would be to swap in a viper engine. It makes a great daily driver and gets around 2mpg</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh really? Get a life.

EJ1chevelle

yea man... how do you think the audis and vw's run so long on boost... if its controlled and stuff it works just the same as a stock motor.

Richard...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaluwa3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even with 90k miles and 100% oem internals?</TD></TR></TABLE>


off topic a little bit but 90k thats not a lot a miles for a 7 year old car is it?

forcefedferio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsxr1k05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock honda's can handle 10 psi on internals. but if you want to go bigger, you will want to change at least the rods and pistons and rings. also with just what you want to look into a head port and like a turbo spec cam and maybe cam gears.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sir, step AWAY from the JCwhitney catalog...not to be a dick, but take that advice worth a grain of salt.

To say how much boost any motor can take is completely dependent on a number of variables, one being turbo size.

I.E. 10 Psi on a T25 compared to 10 psi on a GT4088....completely different worlds.

also this "head port" is entirely unneccesary to reach any type of reasonable goals, it doesnt sound like you're shooting for 700+whp so leave the head alone port wise, sometimes the flow of a head can actually be harmed if ported improperly...besides everyone knows VTEC heads can breathe underwater

"turbo spec" cams...my Crower stage2 street/strip cams are designed for N/A but kick *** for turbo cars with ram-horn manifolds....also if you are just trying to build a fun DD and not trying to squeeze every bit of power you can out of it don't worry about cam gears at this point.

stock compression on an a2 is 10.2:1 assuming that you already use the recommended premium grade gas you will be fine on 6-8 psi...even on 10 psi. (again dependent on turbo size) for your turbo set-up if you really are going to buy all good stuff i'd recommend either the Edelbrock kit or the Full Race prostreet Stage 2 kit....You can piece together a kit for alot cheaper though.

Here's a Start:
GT3071R turbo (perfect for your power and driveability goals)
XSpower intercooler (believe it or not, these intercoolers flow great)
Ebay intercooler pipe kit (you will still have to fit things up to be perfect but it's a good start, make sure to get stainless steel and have it bead rolled if it isn't already)
BLOX manifold (decent price, good manifold for a log manifold)
Tial 38mm wastegate (awesome wastegates, but with that manifold be careful with hood clearance)
Precision 525cc injectors (you will need a resistor box)
Greddy Type RS blow off valve

i mean those are just some suggestions to get you started, but don't forget a good tune, without that the whole project is just gonna be a waste of money.

DCSportEJ1Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by forcefedferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sir, step AWAY from the JCwhitney catalog...not to be a dick, but take that advice worth a grain of salt.

To say how much boost any motor can take is completely dependent on a number of variables, one being turbo size.

I.E. 10 Psi on a T25 compared to 10 psi on a GT4088....completely different worlds.

also this "head port" is entirely unneccesary to reach any type of reasonable goals, it doesnt sound like you're shooting for 700+whp so leave the head alone port wise, sometimes the flow of a head can actually be harmed if ported improperly...besides everyone knows VTEC heads can breathe underwater

"turbo spec" cams...my Crower stage2 street/strip cams are designed for N/A but kick *** for turbo cars with ram-horn manifolds....also if you are just trying to build a fun DD and not trying to squeeze every bit of power you can out of it don't worry about cam gears at this point.

stock compression on an a2 is 10.2:1 assuming that you already use the recommended premium grade gas you will be fine on 6-8 psi...even on 10 psi. (again dependent on turbo size) for your turbo set-up if you really are going to buy all good stuff i'd recommend either the Edelbrock kit or the Full Race prostreet Stage 2 kit....You can piece together a kit for alot cheaper though.

i mean those are just some suggestions to get you started, but don't forget a good tune, without that the whole project is just gonna be a waste of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

for dd if your lookin for a mild hp gain a reliability id say do a bolt on greddy kit and be done with it.

posHonda

Ive responded to too many threads with people and their BS about how much psi will blow up their motor. And the funny thing is people come in here and throw in "8psi" or wait "10psi".

Use the search function please. I guarantee you that you learning that psi is irrelevant will be one of the first things you learn.

Rhymenoceros

no..
turbo=unreliable
na=reliable

honda motors arent built for boost.. sorry they just arent.. no matter what people say.. ive been there and done that.. if you go boost.. build your internals.. bottom line.. do it right the first time.. or u will end up with a rod through the block or a spun bearing..

Richard...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by forcefedferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sir, step AWAY from the JCwhitney catalog....</TD></TR></TABLE>



LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

thats a good one!

ok i am over it!

Lordofdark176

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egB16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea man... how do you think the audis and vw's run so long on boost... if its controlled and stuff it works just the same as a stock motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
because audis and VWs come with forged internals good for 400whp from the factory.

Boost_V

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lordofdark176 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
because audis and VWs come with forged internals good for 400whp from the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh really? Even if that's the case, my dad's turbo volvo 760 is from 1986. He's been DD that stupid car forever...i remember being the car seat and asking my dad "to go turbo". Well, anyway, the point is that it's been running forever.


Usually when people say "only boost around 6-8 psi" they're probably refering to a turbo kit like Greddy or Edelbrock, or any kit with similar size turbos and parts. So that's not totally a wrong answer.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rhymenoceros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no..
turbo=unreliable
na=reliable

honda motors arent built for boost.. sorry they just arent.. no matter what people say.. ive been there and done that.. if you go boost.. build your internals.. bottom line.. do it right the first time.. or u will end up with a rod through the block or a spun bearing.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow sir, you need to be shot. THIS IS ABSOLUTELY NOT TRUE there is TONS of info. to show this is not true in the Forced Induction section.


Oh, and as far as the mileage (90k) that's def. not too much. I know several friends who've done it at around 100k.

Also, i remember that being an issue with me, so i contacted Grant from turbo-kits. He was very helpful, and said he boosted his civic at around 135,000 miles if i remember correctly.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lordofdark176 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
because audis and VWs come with forged internals good for 400whp from the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And let's not forget the fact that the dub turbos can pretty much fit in the palm of your hand.

a DSM Talon or GSX Eclipse would have been a better example.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rhymenoceros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no..
turbo=unreliable
na=reliable

honda motors arent built for boost.. sorry they just arent.. no matter what people say.. ive been there and done that.. if you go boost.. build your internals.. bottom line.. do it right the first time.. or u will end up with a rod through the block or a spun bearing.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you ******* high?

Turbocharging a motor does NOT make it unreliable if it's a decent kit that's NOT pushing the internals' limits and it's tuned correctly it'll be just fine.

Wow, I feel special, I quoted by far the dumbest statement of the century .

EDIT:

@ OP:

Oh yeah, mileage doesn't really mean ****. I mean everybody pretty much told you what I would tell you - psi doesn't mean **** - it varies per turbo size - a car's internals can handle X amount of HP.

I wouldn't push a B16 much past 280 or 300 but if you really want to heir on the side of caution because it's your daily driver I'd go for around 250, 260 at the wheels on a good tune, not some hack-job tune.

Do a compression test, see how that comes out - Make sure you're holding good comp. You probably still are - then if you are - go boost it.

For 3k you can guy a kit - but money would obviously be spent better if you were to piece together your own kit by buying different parts through the marketplace forum 'n such.

As far as your original post question:
"Will boost make it unreliable for daily driving?"

If you over-boost - yes.

Try to get an external wastegate so you don't spike. My friend's is spiking like a bitch right now b/c it's internally gated. Though for low boost apps I guess they're fine .

Get it tuned at a dyno - not your "homie 'n his homie (who really knows hondas) down the street" with the narrowband and the VAFC --- Take it to a dyno with a real tunable ECU such as a chipped OBD-I or a AEM EMS, and have them tune it, stable (not cheap-****) kit + good tune = long life.

Of course there's always other factors involved - example being how hard you get on it - if you boost the **** outta it on every start and make every red to green look like it's a start tree - yeah, your motor will go out quickly. Too many factors in the long run, but if you try to look at it in a narrow sense:
- Good kit
- Good DYNO tune
- Don't overboost
(All assuming you have good compression)

Everything should be peachy.


Modified by Syndacate at 8:31 AM 10/8/2007

Rhymenoceros

^^^ r u ******* stupid?
your saying a turbo has just as much reliability as a NA motor?

im sorry your ******* high on this one bob...

i had a d16z6 motor boosted on a tubronetics 3.5k kit.. t3t4 setup.. on hondata fully tuned.. and i through a rod.. the engine only had 110,000 miles..

im sorry but a turbo is not as reliable as a NA... especially on a honda.. you cant go over 100,000 miles without having to replace big stuff like a NA..plus you always have to worry about cooling and keeping a good amount of oil.. blow bye.. blah blah.. turbos are a heck of alot more work to keep running.. your a idiot to say otherwise

excivicboy96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rhymenoceros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

plus you always have to worry about cooling and keeping a good amount of oil.. blow bye.. blah blah.. turbos are a heck of alot more work to keep running.. your a idiot to say otherwise</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are you lazy? It's not that hard to keep tabs on what your motor is doing.

wolfie98

What is NA?

DCSportEJ1Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolfie98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is NA?</TD></TR></TABLE>

naturally aspirated aka all motor. basically no turbo, supercharger, or nitrous.
sorry but ull prolly get flamed for askin this too.

dizzzane

Boosting on stock internals always leads to a rebuild. ALWAYS.

fatboi07

Bump for everything syndicate just said. Hes right. And btw my civic is a 96 and has 80,910 on it

JDM_SOHC

Syndacate pretty much hit it on the head...

Make SURE, you do a compression test first, and all other little 10-15 minute jobs that could cost the longevity of ur engine... I'm boostin between 8-9psi on a great tune "thanks Emilio", and my **** idles just like a stock motor, and as long as im in vacuum my motor feels just like it did before, but when im in boost thats a whole different ball park... Talk about waking up ur motor haha, im all boost now man... As long as you READ READ READ, stop an burn a dutch, than READ READ READ some more, you'll be good.... Im still learning more and more every day, and trust me it took me over a year and half before i went boosted and all the info i gathered before i did it helped out WONDERS..!!! And i got about 80% of that info from here on HT...

Just remember bro, if ur not tryna break world records theres no reason to drive like a speed freaked moron, and a lil FYI... I put my kit together, tuned, and all other lil turbo accesories and im under a Grand still GL dude...

Boost_V

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rhymenoceros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ r u ******* stupid?
your saying a turbo has just as much reliability as a NA motor?

im sorry your ******* high on this one bob...

i had a d16z6 motor boosted on a tubronetics 3.5k kit.. t3t4 setup.. on hondata fully tuned.. and i through a rod.. the engine only had 110,000 miles..

im sorry but a turbo is not as reliable as a NA... especially on a honda.. you cant go over 100,000 miles without having to replace big stuff like a NA..plus you always have to worry about cooling and keeping a good amount of oil.. blow bye.. blah blah.. turbos are a heck of alot more work to keep running.. your a idiot to say otherwise</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO BOB, you're the only one here who is high. You probably drove like an ******* and loved to rev. Even if you didn't, than there are MANY set-ups to prove you wrong.

Don't cause problems in this thread. Yes, NA is the most reliable, but you take it too far saying they're unreliable.

JDM_SOHC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boost_V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't cause problems in this thread. Yes, NA is the most reliable, but you take it too far saying they're unreliable. </TD></TR></TABLE>


x2.... dont diss boost man, just cuz ur experience wasnt pleasurable doesnt mean that there werent 20 others who have had no problems.. My friend who tuned my car has had a running d16a6 boosted for about 3 years now... on routine maintanance with small minor implications... But yeah man just cuz ur boosted doesnt mean ur gonna blow ur motor so dont throw it out like that...

SoullessJapaneseMachine

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rhymenoceros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ r u ******* stupid?
your saying a turbo has just as much reliability as a NA motor?

im sorry your ******* high on this one bob...

i had a d16z6 motor boosted on a tubronetics 3.5k kit.. t3t4 setup.. on hondata fully tuned.. and i through a rod.. the engine only had 110,000 miles..

im sorry but a turbo is not as reliable as a NA... especially on a honda.. you cant go over 100,000 miles without having to replace big stuff like a NA..plus you always have to worry about cooling and keeping a good amount of oil.. blow bye.. blah blah.. turbos are a heck of alot more work to keep running.. your a idiot to say otherwise</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your case does not automatically apply for all Honda motors. Statistically speaking, Honda motors are good at handling boost.

Now the point you make about reliablity is valid, meaning when you up the compression, and consequently the hp and tq numbers coming from your engine, there is a GREATER CHANCE of blowing **** up.

The higher the boost, the less reliable, all other factors kept equal. Also like you said, a FI setup has more moving parts and systems that could potetnially break.

But this doesn't mean that all FI setups are unreliable. As Syndacte said, there are plenty of boosted hondas that are reliable when set up correctly.