Freedo_Civegra

@spAdam , send me all your goodies! I’m getting pumped to see your finished product.

I ordered 16awg for the main power stuff, but 18awg for my little stuff... because I thought that was what factory was. Now you got me rethinking myself with that bulky comment! It’ll be ok though, I reckon...

chrysler kid

Baby monitor! I stare at her all day now lol

CivicEM1Racing

Today I pulled the head and began the tear down!
#3 Ringland cracked and it had been only 6 months of abuse!
The head was recently resurfaced and got a nice cleaning.
Port & Polish followed with all new BLOX internals.
It was time for some new goodies.

Pulled the Dual Valve springs - Retainers - Keepers -

and of course the valves.

They looked good other than a little carbon on a few of them!

Lost Motion Assembly (Which was also recently upgraded) still tight and steadfast...

I plan to start a build thread once I get through this TRIAL period.

Follow along if you'd like too!

#EM1_Love

Good ol' tools of the trade! Gotta get them there KEEPERS out some how ya hear?

BANG! BANG! BANG!

Once you got em in that there tool you can dig em out of the magnet with a screwdriver

Well... Good thing we checked! One of these suckers WAS ripped!

The BLOX valvetrain shows no signs of wear! I never really believed in their products but no issues with any of these after 6 months and around 6000 Miles of abuse!

Nothing to see here folks just some BLOX dual Valve springs

Valves all look good! Some minor carbon on a few but nothing major

BLOX type 3 camshafts

Stamped with 4 to signify the model

Plan on putting new Copper O-Rings and cleaning water jacket thoroughly. Golden Eagle Sleeves - CP pistons - Eagle Rods - ARP throughout

Freedo_Civegra

Anybody had any luck using those cheap Amazon (glarks?) connector kits? Not for engine bays, but interior stuff. Too much heat and vibration out there.

tony_2018

Same **** you find in a parts store....

Freedo_Civegra

Huh?

tony_2018

yes. or maybe this parts store is the only one being fancy

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Looks like knockoff Weatherpacks.

tony_2018

don't knock em, try em.

Freedo_Civegra

We have weatherpack at the shop, but I’d rather use them in the engine bay. I’ll try these on the inside.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

But I have an acute aversion to actual Weatherpacks

Freedo_Civegra

Spreckon ze Deutsch?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Precisely lol

Freedo_Civegra

spAdam ze Deutsch. Lol

chrysler kid

They look like standard trailer connectors (outdoors weatherproof style.)

Suprisingly that's how I try to teach the novice weekenders how to rewire the tail lights on their old jeeps or old mustangs.

They work just fine, the connectors are a little big for in cabin use though

Freedo_Civegra

I’m all for saving space. What would you recommend for instead?

tony_2018

stock connectors....

Freedo_Civegra

Ok I’ll need some terminals for those and a few matching male and female connectors to make adapters and jumpers.

chrysler kid

You will just need to decide if you want to mount the connectors pre firewall or post firewall inside. If its part of the engine harness you want them in the engine bay. Otherwise it will be difficult to pull them through grommets and such. Otherwise they work fine.

Easiest connectors to salvage are typically the factory radio harness connector, and an aftermarket radio connector adapter. I had to rewire half of my pcm on a dsm for the interior harness to the ecu because of a botched piggy back. And thats what I ended up doing. ( I didnt want to have 8 wires of the same color just spliced from one section of wire to another with no order to them) so I used one side of the original radio connector, then the aftermarket harness adapter to the wires going to the ecu. (The car had a remote start, wideband, apex air fuel controller, GM mass air flow adapter, and just in general **** everywhere.) So I had to get rid of all the bull and wanted the car stock

Basically it made it easier than having to order 8 different color wires, or spray painting the sections of wire before installing

chrysler kid

Otherwise ive been using these for interior items like when I put in a jdm clock and headlight motors, and puddle lights tied to the dome lights (those are under the dash in 96-98 cars lol)

Freedo_Civegra

Cool. Thanks for the advice, chrysler kid. Those connectors look like they may be useful. There are a few items that I need to clean up inside the car, so it will be on the dash side of the firewall. The items are immobilizer, keyless entry system, TAC module, a cleaned up ECU to chassis jumper, a battery isolator, and some AC wiring. Even though I knew better, I kept fooling with stuff and was like “I’ll fix all that neatly later”. Well, it’s later.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I really like the JAE IL-AG5 connectors for under dash stuff. They are the bright green ones you can already find at the ecu end of the engine loom, back of the climate control, cluster, etc. They are compact, secure, and seem to have a good cycle life. You can scavenge housings from the junkyard and buy new terminals, but the housings are also dirt cheap from Mouser/Digi-Key/etc.




Got some work done on a few sub harnesses before I left for the east coast. Yes, there is a boo-boo on the IAT harness. I may remake it, depends on how much leftover material I have at the end of the project. It's not hight priority, jsy a little ugly in a place that no one but me will see.

Freedo_Civegra

Those will have a good OEM look. I’m sold.

Nice jumpers! That one spot isn’t too bad, but it is noticeable.

One of my brothers gave me his old instrument cluster out of an ‘05 Civic he’s working on. I’m going to see if its CAN stuff is compatible with my ECU so that my cel will work.

chrysler kid

I ordered another passenger side coupe tail light, I bought the originals as a set for $60 but the passenger side was cracked. Got one for $26 and the process went perfect.

I tried to experiment on the trunk lights, theres no way to save those. Tons of silicon, lots of prying. Basically I feel like I probably mis shaped the plastic after how hard I hard to heat and pry them. They came off as one piece, the clear reverse section was able to be wiggled off of the rest of the assembly unlike the tail lights which were melted acrylic

chrysler kid

Its been done, from my understanding the instrument cluster from an 01 civic will work with just repinning. The 02+ with the fancy led lighting however is much more difficult. Last I saw you can get the tach and speedo to work but the temp and gas did not work with repinning