tony_2018

i'm done for the day mang..

egsleepercivic

even though you can blow air through it I would visually inspect the return line for a pinch

also might be worth replacing the rubber part of the return line that runs from the FPR to the hard line

also you could run a wire or something through the return line to the tank

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

You might be right about the return line under the car, I did hit the underside a couple times on a bump in my complex pretty good. The rubber line is old but nothing wrong with it and I removed the fuel pump and checked the return pipe and it was clear as well. I really should just run the return line from the FPR into a container, so once I do those 2 things hopefully I'll have found the issue.

Genos D16

Well I started to diagnose 6 codes I'm getting. P0325, P0302, P0303, P0304, P1300, and P1399. I'm waiting on the knock sensor, plugs, and coils to come in that I purchased online and I'll be starting valve lash adjustments in a bit. I'm hoping all of those will fix the issue. I replaced injectors and fuel filter already.

If anyone has anything they recommend that would be great too. Brand new to Honda's.

TomCat39

You should clear the codes and see which return. You don't know how long some of those codes have been stored and for what. You also don't know which ones triggered twice to throw a CEL and which only triggered once so were only stored. Clearing the codes and reading once driven tends to be the way to confirm what codes are actually active and need attention.

CZ_Mate

Last week I installed a HKS Hi Power exhaust on my 95 Civic coupe with a B20 high comp motor. It has 1320 performance Ramhorn headers and the combo sounds amazing.

Will be making a full exhaust video on my Youtube channel. I do have the install vlog up already with a few rev ups

@CZ_Mate on IG & YouTube

HKS Hi Power Exhaust
IG/YouTube - @CZ_Mate

B20 w/ 1320 performance ramhorn headers IG/YouTube- @CZ_Mate

Honderachinaldo

have 1320 stepped 4-2-1, seems to be decent mid level stuff.

Tried to find way today to utilize h22 oil cooler on f23 block. Bolts right on between block and filter but am having issues finding a coolant port from block, Y off heater hose maybe?

chrysler kid

Was going to do a resonator box delete like this









When I noticed this. Ordered a new one on eBay for $22

tony_2018

thats def not oem, I got **** from a 95 integra still holding on.

oldman9

Found a different color for my block that I love. First time I've ever sanded so much on an engine.
Still need to clean the head before I install it. Your thoughts?

chrysler kid

I typically prefer silver cast aluminum color to looks new, and to show oil leaks. Though I did do some side work on a y7 I rebuilt that I painted silver and he has been driving it non stop and its covered in dirt now. So grey is good, wont look out of place or noticeably dirty when it gets dirty

tony_2018

right?

Eh2lover

Got my eh2 all cleaned up for cars and coffee in the morning 🤘🏼

tony_2018

took a whole day to approve this dudes post, lol I guess.

Eliott Konsin

Thanks to HMotors and Atlanta Powerhouse Performance my swap is in and running great. Sorting out the brake booster though. I just installed it without making sure the MC and booster had the correct clearance. Brakes were seizing up and overworking the lsd. Passenger axle was slinging grease as a result. I backed off the booster and brakes are working fine and axle chilled out. I think I have a leak in the booster though because I can pump up the revs at idle...

Swap is up and running!

Bye D Hello B

PastorDave_EJ1

That block color is great, strong choice. -Dave

chrysler kid

I wondered why it showed new post but no new post

I tried some new mothers ceramic wax

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

^ She's looking really clean.

Finished spec'ing out all of the connections for my new engine loom design. So many hours of pouring over wiring diagrams and planning out what I want to have built in to it. Goal is to be able to swap easily between OBD1/2B (or other ecus really) without having a jumper harness. I'm tired of the headaches they cause (even the better quality ones). Adding an ethanol sensor and some other modular features while I'm at it. Tired of messing around with 20 year old wires and connectors, doing everything new. No more haunted house electrical issues lol.

Next step is to acquire the ethanol sensor so I can figure out where I'm going to mount it, then start figuring out routing. Hoping I can come up with a nice clean passage even though the car remains fully functional and emissions-equipped. I've never done a full custom loom on a non-stripped street car. The wad of coolant lines around the passenger side and the evap canister make it tricky.

MADMKIII

Got a smokin deal on a low mileage Si gauge cluster but I don't have an actual SI.(even though most of the car is Si now, the vin still says EJ8). No worries, a Canadian spec SiR fuel/temp gauge matches perfectly and doesn't have the big red "Si" on it. It even lights up amber as well.

B18C5-EH2

Swapped out a bad main cooling fan for a free Mishimoto fan given to me by a buddy who only used it for one drive from ATL to Miami. Added Royal Purple ICE coolant additive as well. Video linked of idling with A/C on after some hard pulls in 90 degree heat here in GA. Seems to be working well thus far.

chrysler kid

Replaced the air intake hose and air filter. Seems to run smoother through the power band, little torquier I guess

Honderachinaldo

Went about port matching S2 Pro Series mani to ported H22 head. I was trying to not go overboard on the runners but the manifold side of ports around .040" smaller surprisingly enough.

JDMdoode

Someone come change my throw out bearing. I’m to lazy and old to do this hahah.

tony_2018

give me the ruck and we good fam.

B18C5-EH2

I played Tetris with four riding mowers.