tony_2018

So funny, I thought I broke something when I only saw one valve moving per cylinder and forgot that it doesn't move until the vtec solenoid enables it to.

The improvements that I am seeing I'm going to point to the fuel being used for the winter or winter conditions. I'll wait until spring/summer to see these improvements. For now the civic is road ready again and I will be taking it back to New Orleans with me.

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

One thing I overlooked was the fact that I have that garbage liquid filled drivers mount. One of the many reasons I dislike the EK chassis. Not sure if I should run as is or find an ek with a normal mount and drill out the spot welds on the bracket.

tony_2018

hasport has a driver side mount that looks in the eg/dc mount. Give that a try.

I have hardrace engine mounts. Pretty damng good.

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

I didn't see the bracket for the mount on their site. I'm more inclined to not spend $200 on a 4 inch box of metal though.

tony_2018

If you can weld, if not .....welll.....

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, a few spot welds won't be a problem.

Dealer wanted $110 when I walked in for this yesterday but a friend was able to help me get it for just under $58. Lucky for it to be in stock. Looks like it's gunna be swap b20 Sunday.

Bullitt17

What did I do today? Changed oil and discovered a nice crack in the radiator. Must have happened when it got down in the sub zero temps this week. Picked up a new radiator today and installing it tomorrow. Lucky for me its in the 60's this weekend.

tony_2018

installed auto-dimming rearview mirror from a tsx, worth it. I like it even more now that I know it tints to a darker green which is the same color as the civic.

chrysler kid

I installed sound deadening on the inside of the exterior door skin on the front doors, and then applied the same sound deadening to the back side of the interior door panels. I also put some on the back side of the glove box, and on the HVAC components behind the dash to reduce blower fan noise. Came out so well I ordered another 60×40 roll to do the driver and passengers side foot wells




*

tony_2018

No pics of the process? you applied it on the outer layer of the blower box?

chrysler kid

I can take a picture of my glove box and the area behind it in a few minutes. Since mine is a 97 the suction for the recirculation mode is right there behind the glove box, so the sound deadening on the back side of the outer inside made a big difference in the noise from the blower wheel spinning

tony_2018

I still got some 'second skin' left, I'm gonna try this.

chrysler kid

It really makes a noticeable difference that you immediately hear when you open the glove box now

tony_2018

That sucker looks like an oven.

chrysler kid

You can't even see it unless you drop the glove box. It should help cool/heat the car more consistently as well? I dunno the fan blower is now silent compared to its normal plasticky hum click style tone

I'm even considering pulling the dash again to line the underside of it with the insulation to cut back on noise and heat transfer.

tony_2018

If you remove the dash you might as well remove the old firewall foam and put some sound deadening there too. Will require removal of ac components.

Gussypod

NVturbo

Wired up a timer delay for the wideband gauge/sensor and mocked up the exhaust. If I get off work early Friday, I might take it to a shop to have them weld the joints. Currently, it's a bit too loud. haha

chrysler kid

Wired up the headlight motors to the switch

Fyi the 5th gen wiring diagram by deschlong is the same as sixth gen besides color of power wire. The green/red stripe wire is 12v ignition source. Yellow/blue is direct signal to the motors from the switch

There is no relay, the green/orange powers the motor and sends 12v to the switch, the switch then has a variable resistance it sends to the motor to trigger the motors response. So the motor and the switch need to recieve 12v on the green/red wire. The motor only responds to the yellow/blue wire from the switch.

So if you want to get really technical, you only need to run the yellow/blue wire from the switch to the yellow/blue on the motors. You can connect the switch inside the car to a random 12v source from the interior fuse panel, and in the engine bay the connectors on the motor plug (green/orange) to another 12v source from the engine fuse box. (Its easier to understand for me atleast when I figured the yellow/blue was the signal from the switch to trigger the motor to move)

best I can tell the motor has a regulator on it that only responds to the signal for 3 seconds to raise or lower the headlight motors

chrysler kid

Oh and then later that day a kid offered me 4grand cash so I sold it. So that happened

Found an ej8 that fingers crossed I'll pick up on saturday

tony_2018

nicely done

chrysler kid

Forgot these

WillMuniz83

Joey Mitchell

I spent literally ALL day fabricating an oversized battery tray from scratch so I can relocate my battery to my trunk tomorrow. It took a lot longer than I expected, but it looks good and it's something I can be proud of .

Spoonfixer

New shifter setup. Still the same blix single bend but installed the adjustable extension to it instead of the circuit hero. I dig it.