civic402lx

I got the universal one from eBay @ $40 a set shipped. I pull the power off the radio +12v wire. The switches I put on the blank below the e-brake. I don't recommend the circular switch because it does not fit well. The blank became weak after you drill the center out for the circular switch. I also have seats cover. So I place(taped, came with kit) the heating element onto the stock seat cloth, then slid the seat cover over it. Ran the wires down the back and inside the carpet. All hidden below the e-brake handle. Doesn't interfer with e-brake at all. I also installed a remote start system, so I flip the switch to ON the night before. Remote start the car next morning, it will be nice and toasty by the time I get in and drive away. Been working awesome. Gets pretty hot if leave on High, I set it on low and its very comfortable.

94 Civic Si

LiteraCola

I installed my new hood release cable yesterday, changed the seals on the VTEC solenoid and I was finally able to pinpoint where my mystery oil leak was coming from. It wasn't the o-ring on the dizzy afterall; it's the internal seal. And the only way I was able to figure it out was the fact that the o-ring on the dizzy cap is leaking also. I guess it's a blessing in disguise that the cap seal is leaking too. That's keeping the dizzy from filling up with oil! Anways, a seal kit is on the way!

Also, it seems they didn't install the hood release cable on these cars with the intent of anyone ever having to replace it. What a bitch! But my hood finally closes!

CX-Adam

sticky!

CX-Adam

ak12gage

Currently working on a mini-me swap. D16z6/D16y7. Got the head, timing belt and crank pulley on. First time getting this invasive, but you have to start sometime/somewhere. Hopefully I'll have it ready to drop in come Sunday.
It's going in the e.g. coupe in the background of pic. 4.
P.S. Turbo plans for the stripped block in the background of pic. 3.

Nave43

Finally got a set of OEM tails, so clean.

CX-Adam

Huge improvement, Nave.

CX-Adam

Did an oil and filter change on my DD at 197,491 miles.

209mountainSol

INSTALLED MY WIDEBAND O2....yea i was yelling it

dsol

Nave the oem lights are an awesome upgrade!

swapped fan over to the new radiator and then proceeded to snap the bolt for the rad mount
also got it back on jack stands to finish up shift linkage. only thing left is coolant...maybe someone has some helpful advice?
put a b20 in my 97 civic ex. I am using an LS intake with the B20 throttle body. I have a nipple that comes off the coolant pipe that runs along the back of the motor, not sure where that should run. I think it runs to the TB BUT, my TB only has 1 possible nipple for coolant to run in to. (not sure how it would get back out, I am assuming it circulates around TB to prevent freezing)
I also have another nipple that comes off the coolant port off the side of the head where the upper rad hose goes on to.
of course I have read of people plugging them and leaving the TB ports open, but I want some opinions before I do it the wrong way.
On a bright note, I cranked it (injectors unplugged) and it does not sound like bricks in a washer!

Dokkal

Removed all the brake calipers/rotors, unhooked stock brake lines, removed suspension. Starting to build up my 94 hatch

Nave43

Thanks doe. That nipple at the base of the upper radiator hose is most likely a coolant bleed valve. Its essentially the same as a caliper bleed valve so as long as its closed it can be left alone. Though its hard to tell exactly what you are describing via text.

dsol

ya its not my bleed valve but no worries, I got it figured out.

Saturday and Sunday I was able to finish the shift linkage, hang the exhaust, and figure out the coolant ordeal. had the wrong ecu and wasn't getting any fuel pump...so did a junkyard run on sunday and snagged the correct ECU.
now I have pump, but im working on fixing a fuel leak where the hose meets the rail. Once that is handled just be to put in radiator and run until temp to see if anything leaks.....then test drive!!

Joseph Michaud

So far today, all I've done is cussed at it in the garage on my way out to work this morning.

60 minute commute in my Jeep that gets about 1/3 the mileage, and really regretting building my lifetime subscription Sirius into the car. No Stern for me until I get the suspension finished.

Tylers88

Not today but Friday evening I finally went and picked it up, sometime this week I need to go get the title switched into my name

PunchedGuava

Put a B&M short shifter on my EM1 along with energy suspension bushings and OMG what an incredible difference!

Joseph Michaud

Well, yesterday now...

Finished my coilover and tie rod replacement. I promise I will start taking pictures soon. It was too late to get any yesterday. As it was, I took the test drive after dark. I must have spent 3 hours tuning the coilovers to get the right height. Raising one lowers the other... Was driving me crazy. 1.5in clearance between thread and fender all the way around (with me sitting in the driver's seat).

The wheels/tires look pretty cool, but wider than I prefer them to be. They stick out past the fender slightly. Unless there is such thing as a negative offset, I'm stuck with them this way.

dsol

got some stuff done yesterday. re-wrapped some of my wiring harness, got 02 sensor in and header back on. mainly waiting on a fuel line to arrive so I can turn the key and check for codes. was able to snag a nice CRV cluster with a tach from the yard... anyone know a good way of covering the PRNDL indicator on an auto cluster?? preferably a way that looks good

NewCarScent

I masked it off and sprayed it with a couple coats of semi gloss black paint, could never tell that it was auto once it was in the vehicle. Most people just cover it with electrical tape.

Joseph Michaud

Rolled her down the street to get new tires on my rims all around it, safety check of my work, and aligned. Been about a month in the garage doing the suspension and coilovers. Really looking forward to that first drive on Friday.

My wife bought me a can of new car smell to commemorate the completion, lol. New car smell in a 21 year old car, yay!

CX-Adam

Gratz, Joe!

CX-Adam

Just got done doing some basic maintenance on the daily (D16Y7). I think I made it jealous by focusing on the project car so much and it decided to punish me by running terribly.

Symptoms were:
1. Terrible idle regardless of clutch position. (sputtering)
2. Hesitation upon acceleration (bogging).
3. Abnormal engine vibration while cruising at high RPM (poor combustion)

Conditions existed regardless of engine temperature.

So, when I got home from work last night I went through the typical ignition system checks:
Spark plugs: Gaps were fine, color was slightly white, no buildup.
Plug Wires: only 24,000 miles and 15 months old so I did not check them.
Cap: Contacts in cap were totally crusted over.
Rotor: Totally crusted over.
Coil contact in cap: Poor continuity within the cap between the coil point and the center.

Since it was running, there was no need to check the coil or ICM. So, I didn't.

Parts stores weren't open so I sanded the contacts down and reinstalled everything. The contacts in the cap were really bad so there wasn't much left of them by the time I finished sanding them. After reinstalling, the car ran better at idle but was still bogging and hesitating during acceleration. I figured the ignition system was likely still the problem but it could also be fuel related. Again, I couldn't go get a new cap and rotor so, I decided half a can of Seafoam in the tank couldn't hurt. And, as far as I can tell it didn't. I don't know if the car has benefited but, it hasn't hurt.

This morning I called my local Honda dealership to see if they had parts in stock. Par for the course, they wanted triple what Majestic Honda wanted ($60 for a cap) and couldn't get until tomorrow afternoon (which is fast for them). So, I went to O'Reilleys and bought a cheap cap and rotor to get me to and from work for the next few days and ordered OEM Honda Replacements online all for less than what my dealership wanted.

I also replaced my 199,000 mile fuel filter.

The engine seems to be running "fine" now. Tons of things still need attention but, the Band-Aid seems to be working.

Tylers88

Did clutch master and slave cylinders and the flex line from the firewall to trans and I have to say wtf Honda, that line routing is horrible why does it go higher than the reservior. Tried manually bleeding said screw it going to a shop tomorrow with a power bleeder handy.

CX-Adam

Power bleeder FTW.