JDMrasta

hey i have a 98 civic hatchback and i put some tein s springs on but my car looks like its at stock height........ i have the springs on oem shocks but my brother has the same **** and his is nice and low but mines looks like a damn monster truck... anyone might know the problem??

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMrasta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey i have a 98 civic hatchback and i put some tein s springs on but my car looks like its at stock height........ i have the springs on oem shocks but my brother has the same **** and his is nice and low but mines looks like a damn monster truck... anyone might know the problem?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

are they real tein? are the spring pig tails lined up properly (they probably are or you wouldnt be able to put the shock in correctly. Pics of the car? They do settle over like 1k miles or so...but not by much. Do you have the rears on the rear and the fronts on the front?

BTW, nothing to do with ride height, but did you clock your bushings? It's an important step.

For anyone that's going to chime in and say "it's probably your shocks", you can stop typing now. Shocks in this application DO NOT AFFECT RIDE HEIGHT. at all.
Neither do bump stops unless you're riding on them.

JDMrasta

yes there real teins, wut the hell is clock the bushing..lol
if the rear springs have a flat side on the spring then i put the right ones on, if not i fucked up...

HATCHBACK GORILLA!

you need to cut the foam piece in half , some call it a bump stop....and if they are progress springs which they should be, they will lower the car slightly after driving on them for a few miles

JDMrasta

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HATCHBACK GORILLA! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to cut the foam piece in half , some call it a bump stop....and if they are progress springs which they should be, they will lower the car slightly after driving on them for a few miles </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's been done

Hybrid_Ej188

are you postive you have the fronts in the fronts and the rears in the rear?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMrasta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes there real teins, wut the hell is clock the bushing..lol
if the rear springs have a flat side on the spring then i put the right ones on, if not i fucked up...</TD></TR></TABLE>

clocking the bushings means tightening the bolts that go thru bushings after the car is AT ride height. You cant tighten these in the air. They will over twist and tear. Take the 10 mins to do this now...because in about a year, you'll be doing bushings....and doing bushings SUCKS!!

These are the affected bushings:

- Front UCA to chassis
- Front LCA to shock
- Front LCA to chassis

- Rear LCA to shock
- Rear LCA to chassis
- Rear LCA to trailing arm
- Rear toe link to chassis (although, this will probably be done when you get an alignment)
- Rear toe link to trailing arm


Jack up the car and put it on jackstands.

Loosen those (mentioned above) bolts up while the car is in the air will the suspension at full droop.

Jack up the LCA on any given corner till the suspension compresses enough to lift the car off the jackstand. Tighten the bolts that you loosened on that corner.


Repeat for the rest of the corners. It's important for stock or stock replacement rubber bushings. The only time this doesn't apply is when you have fully floating polyurethane bushings (like energy or prothane). Trust me, you REALLY dont want torn bushings.