jdm602

the adjustment screw is pretty sensitive. always recheck the adjustment to make sure its where you want it. sometimes it likes to move along with the nut when your tightening it especially if your not using the a tappet or jamnut wrench and instead a bent closed end wrench like mine. but thats for bseries.

HeikDiesel

You are welcome, glad that people still use this.

Also with the "drag". I've found that if there is just a slight drag then they are set too loose. I set them to where it takes a pretty good effort to get the feeler gauge out but yet you can still get it back in. They also make "go/no go" feeler gagues that are pretty useful to double check yourself

civic_driver

The cylinder closest to the cam gear is #1. The cylinder closest to the distributor/dizzy is #4.

crami

good write up, definitely book marked. After I did this job I noticed that one of the valve springs was popping out and was not smooth when sliding the feeler gauge through. Motor has a little knock now, any advice...

brucepick

Wow - Great writeup! It's been years since I've done a valve adjustment but I think my D16Y5 (SOHC) needs it. So this will be my guide.

I think I'm hearing valve tap but it changes with throttle position. I already did a couple seafoam treatments and then had a shop do an injector + top cylinder cleaning. All that, to get all the carbon out of the top cylinder area. So hopefully the noise we hear is not detonation from carbon buildup. 169K miles on engine. Been running Auto-RX too, to clean the rings and crankcase and oil passages etc.

What do you think? Does valve tap on these engines respond to throttle changes??

[EDIT]
Haha. If valve tap responds to throttle changes, it's ping/knock.
Valve adjustment completed, D16Y5 still pings. Next I'll check ign timing and idle speed, but not in this thread.

Jimster480

thanks for this! gonna do my valves tomorrow!

Bad_dude

Where exactly do you look to make sure that the cylinder is TDC? Would this technique from this post be better and easier? http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...lve+adjustment
Thanks,

Jimster480

you look on the cam gear. If the lines are flat on the Deck then its @ TDC

Vindicator9000

Yep. Lines should be pointing inward at each other, with the Top marks up.

P-ville

Just another little hint that I saw on a youtube video for this. I didn't have another ratchet or extension (I did but I couldn't find the right socket for it out of my box) so to turn the motor I just used a crescent wrench and turned the nut on the power steering pump, it seemed to work just as fine.

project93hatch

nice job man!

civicjunkie17

iTrader: (1)

So I just adjusted everything using the smallest tolerance for each side (intake .007 and exhaust .009) with a pretty decent drag. Now the valve tap is louder than it was before. I take it that's not normal?

giperbolic

I tried searching and found a few threads, but not a clear confirmation.
I understand that arms should be able to move at TDC, which is what I have. My question is - when I check the clearance, do I raise the arm all the way up or hold it down? It would make sense to have it raised, since that's the most clearance you would have, but want to confirm it before I make a mistake.
Thank you.

giperbolic

help!

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

im not sure if im doing it right.

i used the medium feeler gauge and leave it with slight drag not too much.(the one in the middle of allowed clearance)

am i leaving the gap too big by doing that?


what happends if its too tight does that mean that the valves are not gonna seal or seat properly?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

i did it over and set tighter clearances but when the car is warming up it sounds like its bunch of pebbles under valve cover then it warms up and it goes away except one tick that stays all the time.
the ehgine is 2000 LS motor all stock
all the clearances measured same yet one sounds like its really loose (exhaust side).

jdmb18b1flip

Ita been a while since ive done.thi but. when.turn it to top dead.center.u.turn.it.cpunter.clok.wise.right.and. the.order is 1,3,4,2.

took 264t

Thanks for the info

jeremyhughes

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff, thanks for the write up!

StuckInTexas

iTrader: (1)

Just did this today for my 1st time ever, and it worked. Took me about 3 hours. Made sure I did everything right, and double checked everything. I used one size bigger for the intake and exhaust so they would not fit in between. So for exhaust a 9-10 would fit, but not a 12, (didn't have a 11. and for intake 10 wouldnt fit but 7-8-9 did. Better to be a little lose than extra tight right?

shm91

Just needed this. Glad I got it.
Thanks.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

why is it when all clearances are exact I still hear a tick or two?
ls gsr or b16 engine doesn't matter. they all have a few valves that tick no matter how many times I set the clearance to the middle or even smaller clearance?

its not LMAs I have brand new spring style lmas

TomCat39

Honda engines by design are supposed to sound like sewing machines with the tickity tick tick tick of the valves. The sound of ticking is the rocker arm hitting the valve shaft. There is a small gap of .008 and .010 inch so it will create an audible tick (by design) when it makes contact. It's perfectly normal and expected.

If you don't hear ticking from the older Honda engines, something is probably wrong.

What you don't want to hear is knocking, sounds more like a loud tock tock tock sound. Like rapping a thick wooden spoon on the engine block. That kind of sound is bad.

marksavoid

Let me preface this with conditional info. I am a retired mechanic and haven't worked professionally in many years. So my suggestions should be taken in that light.

In my shop we adjusted valves nearly every day. The shortcut we took on vehicles with sticks, especially the smaller cars, was to put the car in gear (usually 2nd or 3rd) and pushed the car forward or backward while watching the valve train. This way we could check the timing belt or chain for excessive play, and at the same time move the cam to the proper position for adjustment. Yes, a lot easier with the plugs out, but quite doable with them in.

The reason most manuals didn't suggest this (some did) was to prevent undue stress on the timing belt, clutch, and other parts of the drive train. I've done this on hundreds of Hondas and other makes with no adverse effects and many saves by discovering problems in the valve gearing/tensioner and belts/chains, and the clutch.

TomCat39

That's some pretty interesting info you added. Thank you.

Also I just went through this whole thread again and I noticed no one included the torque spec for the other 92-95 motors.

The valve lash lock nuts set to 14 ft-lbs is way to high a torque for the D15B7 and B8 motors. They are supposed to be 10 ft-lbs. The 14 ft-lbs is the vtec motors so D16Z6 and the D15Z1.

Other than that, a solid write up. Going to edit the first post to provide that tidbit of info so someone working on the B7 or B8 doesn't over torque their lash lock nuts.